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Author Topic: Cambo TS for RS/ DS  (Read 8613 times)

etrump

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« Reply #20 on: June 29, 2009, 10:49:32 am »

Quote from: tho_mas
I am interessted in this particular topic as I do NOT use hyperfocal distance at all with digital. I don't have a 35mm LF lens but the Digitar 47XL. When I set the lens to infinity (and f11) infinity is tack sharp and I have a certain DOF. When I set focus back to, say, 10meters... infinity is soft. Though this is by far inside hyperfocal distance by defintion).
Maximum I set back focus is like shown in the image. When I set the lens to any closer distance than that infinity gets soft (well, not soft but if you are very critical regarding sharpness you already see a loss of sharpness - and no, the lens is not misaligned, quite the contrary).

[attachment=14779:foucs.jpg]

In testing my Cambo lens I always had the same problem and had to reduce the focal point by two stops.  f/11 to f/5.6 etc.  The lens is calibrated to film not the size/resolution of your sensor.
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tho_mas

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« Reply #21 on: June 29, 2009, 10:52:36 am »

Quote from: etrump
The lens is calibrated to film not the size/resolution of your sensor.
maybe I didn't get that... my lens is calibrated to my sensor as I did it by myself.

edit: ah... I think I did get you wrong. You are referring to the DOF indication on the lens, right?
So, yes, it is actually completely useless with these highres chips.
« Last Edit: June 29, 2009, 10:58:49 am by tho_mas »
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Doug Peterson

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« Reply #22 on: June 29, 2009, 11:34:50 am »

Quote from: tho_mas
edit: ah... I think I did get you wrong. You are referring to the DOF indication on the lens, right?
So, yes, it is actually completely useless with these highres chips.

They are in fact extremely useful. They are just inaccurate *as marked* for the resolving ability of the high res backs.

My field testing indicates:
For P25/P20/P21 - 1.5 stop
For P45 - 2 stops
For P40/P65 - 2.5 stops

Example: Shooting at f/11 with the P45 you need to use the f/5.6 marking for hyperfocal.

Of course the best method is to test your back/body/lens combo for hyperfocal focusing at your preferred aperture and then either mark on the lens, or memorize/record the specific place on the lens. Then you can "set it and forget it". Leave a bit of slack since lens focus changes slightly with temperature, human error, etc.

Rodenstock/Schneider can't possibly know what micron-sized sensors will be used on a lens produced today. So instead of trying to produce lenses with DOF markings specific to each micron size (i.e. each generation of back) they mark to a known standard, and it is up to you (or your dealer) to understand how much to adjust from the film-standard-DOF to your specific back.

Doug Peterson (e-mail Me)
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« Last Edit: June 29, 2009, 11:36:42 am by dougpetersonci »
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tho_mas

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« Reply #23 on: June 29, 2009, 12:03:23 pm »

Quote from: dougpetersonci
For P45 - 2 stops
Example: Shooting at f/11 with the P45 you need to use the f/5.6 marking for hyperfocal.
I feel that this is a very rough and optimistic approximation. IMHO DOF is more narrow. Okay, depends on what you call sharp.
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tho_mas

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« Reply #24 on: July 01, 2009, 04:02:39 pm »

Made a short trip to the Netherlands today an took the opportunity to visit Cambo as there was a little thing to adjust on my camera.

Some short notes that may be interessting for WRS (WDS, Compact) users:

The TS adapter will fit into the regular lens mounts.
The zero setting of tilt and swing will be geared.
It's not yet finished but they are going to make a safe lock mechanism (similar to the geared shift with a small blob).
Adjustment screws go very smooth but the entire thing feels very solid. Indeed it looks very promising!
As swing and tilt is moveable in all directions they actually didn't want to make an indication for the degrees of tilt and/or swing.
I find that indications are useful if - for whatever reason - you don't have the time to make a LCC shot. If you know the settings you could do it afterwards.
In general I find indications useful with regard to raw processing. They think about a solution.
The adapter will be available for the Rodenstock HR up from 28mm and longer and for the Digitars up from the 47XL and longer.

Tried the leveling base and directly picked it up (still a prototype with the scale not yet finished but I don't care about the design of the scale).
It feels like a natural extension of the camera (and indeed is desinged as one) and it keeps the gear extremely lean - no tripod head needed, just that small base for the WRS. For me personally this is an extremely useful addition as I like my WRS setup light and small.
The leveling base has a geared zero position for panning. I never thought about that but the useful thing here is that you can compose and once finished you just turn the camera 180° to look at the front, make some adjustments (exposure, aperture or whatever) and turn it back to exactly the same position. Useful if you stand on a balkony or similar... but certainly useful in several other situation as well.
The bottom/front the base has a standard sized eyelet to mount a shade on a clamp, the LCC plate on a clamp or whatever you like to mount ...
Again, the adjustments are very smooth but the leveling base is very solid.

They will offer Fresnel groundglasses. So you have the choice either to take the regular or the Fresnel screen (or both, of course).
Picked one up as well and this screen turns the WRS into a new camera for me. Okay, a bit of a stretch. But I can see the entire groundglass (width and height of the screen is roughly 8x6cm) relatively bright and clear - with the regular screen you just see a sweet spot wherever you put the loupe. With the Fresnel there is light fall off as well of course, but it's much, much better (and BTW talking about the 5.6/47XL here). As far as I figured out today I can adjust focus on the screen without the help of an additional loupe (the lens of the focussing hood seems to do well here... but I have to double check under different conditions).
They modified the focussing hood: now there is a mechanism so that you can fold out the focussing hood but don't have to remove it all together. Nice!

A little new feature on the WRS body: by now on the bottom of the camera there was just one level. Now the body has two levels on the bottom so that you can mount the camera above your head but still can level it.

I asked for a cap to temporarily store the back when mounted on the interface. No solution by now but it's on their list.

All the new things mentioned here will be availabe anytime up from autumn or so.

They keep on with developing and improving the camera and the accessories - very much appreciated!
In part just some inconspicuous details. But they may turn out as usefull additions for someone.

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clawery

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« Reply #25 on: July 16, 2009, 11:58:39 am »

Quote from: tho_mas
Made a short trip to the Netherlands today an took the opportunity to visit Cambo as there was a little thing to adjust on my camera.

Some short notes that may be interessting for WRS (WDS, Compact) users:

The TS adapter will fit into the regular lens mounts.
The zero setting of tilt and swing will be geared.
It's not yet finished but they are going to make a safe lock mechanism (similar to the geared shift with a small blob).
Adjustment screws go very smooth but the entire thing feels very solid. Indeed it looks very promising!
As swing and tilt is moveable in all directions they actually didn't want to make an indication for the degrees of tilt and/or swing.
I find that indications are useful if - for whatever reason - you don't have the time to make a LCC shot. If you know the settings you could do it afterwards.
In general I find indications useful with regard to raw processing. They think about a solution.
The adapter will be available for the Rodenstock HR up from 28mm and longer and for the Digitars up from the 47XL and longer.

Tried the leveling base and directly picked it up (still a prototype with the scale not yet finished but I don't care about the design of the scale).
It feels like a natural extension of the camera (and indeed is desinged as one) and it keeps the gear extremely lean - no tripod head needed, just that small base for the WRS. For me personally this is an extremely useful addition as I like my WRS setup light and small.
The leveling base has a geared zero position for panning. I never thought about that but the useful thing here is that you can compose and once finished you just turn the camera 180° to look at the front, make some adjustments (exposure, aperture or whatever) and turn it back to exactly the same position. Useful if you stand on a balkony or similar... but certainly useful in several other situation as well.
The bottom/front the base has a standard sized eyelet to mount a shade on a clamp, the LCC plate on a clamp or whatever you like to mount ...
Again, the adjustments are very smooth but the leveling base is very solid.

They will offer Fresnel groundglasses. So you have the choice either to take the regular or the Fresnel screen (or both, of course).
Picked one up as well and this screen turns the WRS into a new camera for me. Okay, a bit of a stretch. But I can see the entire groundglass (width and height of the screen is roughly 8x6cm) relatively bright and clear - with the regular screen you just see a sweet spot wherever you put the loupe. With the Fresnel there is light fall off as well of course, but it's much, much better (and BTW talking about the 5.6/47XL here). As far as I figured out today I can adjust focus on the screen without the help of an additional loupe (the lens of the focussing hood seems to do well here... but I have to double check under different conditions).
They modified the focussing hood: now there is a mechanism so that you can fold out the focussing hood but don't have to remove it all together. Nice!

A little new feature on the WRS body: by now on the bottom of the camera there was just one level. Now the body has two levels on the bottom so that you can mount the camera above your head but still can level it.

I asked for a cap to temporarily store the back when mounted on the interface. No solution by now but it's on their list.

All the new things mentioned here will be availabe anytime up from autumn or so.

They keep on with developing and improving the camera and the accessories - very much appreciated!
In part just some inconspicuous details. But they may turn out as usefull additions for someone.


I have been told that the estimated retrofit price will be $1295.00 per lens and will take 3-4 days.  Cambo will start retrofitting in early September.  

Chris Lawery(e-mail Me)
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Phase One, Canon, Apple, Profoto, Eizo & More
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