Topic: RZ Pro II lenses (Read 13248 times)

Frank Doorhof · « **Reply #20 on:** June 14, 2009, 04:54:25 am »

Quote from: AndreNapier

If you shooting WLF try first to use Mamiya screen. I find it much superior to Maxwell or Beatie. I have them all.
Yes they are brighter but all the circle lines interfer with fine detail focusing for me. Mamiya screen is plenty bright with WLF.
Also remember that every time you change the screen on Rz you need to adjust focus. Focusing screws are right below the screen.
My Bright Screen was originally 10' off on 30' distance.
Andre

Andre,
Outside the original screen is great, but inside with studio lights the original screen was very dimm and without the focus aid it's almost impossible to do a quick and proper focus.

Rob C · « **Reply #21 on:** June 14, 2009, 04:56:15 am »

Quote from: Snook

Shot a campaign the other day with some local actresses and the dang thing kept searching and searching and I missed many shots because of it. It was really embarrassing to say the least.

Snook

Snook

Not to hi-jack the thread, but just to share your pain! That is exactly the feeling I got with my brand new F4s every time I tried to load a film. Automatic loading indeed! It took about three tries each and every new film, but I learned how to blush again.

That´s why now, years later, I still have one of the last of the F3 bodies produced - the best trade-in-backwards I ever made, even if it´s becoming an expensive museum exhibit.

Rob C

AndreNapier · « **Reply #22 on:** June 14, 2009, 11:01:40 am »

Frank,
I would assume you are using a prism instead of WLF. I could not focus the prism if my life depended on it, but WLF dark???
I shoot 90+% in studio. I can focus with 200w Broncolor ring on Para light from across the studio and I do not have perfect eyes.
Andre

Frank Doorhof · « **Reply #23 on:** June 14, 2009, 11:16:33 am »

Quote from: AndreNapier

Frank,
I would assume you are using a prism instead of WLF. I could not focus the prism if my life depended on it, but WLF dark???
I shoot 90+% in studio. I can focus with 200w Broncolor ring on Para light from across the studio and I do not have perfect eyes.
Andre

I own the prism and focussing is ok with that but my eyes are still very good
99.9% of the time I use the wlf but I did not like the glass I got with it maybe you have a better one ?
There was no focus confirmation be it's not that bright.

I heard there are a lot of screens out there maybe I got a bad one. Anyway love the new one even with the prism focus works nice.

Snook · « **Reply #24 on:** June 14, 2009, 02:41:36 pm »

Quote from: AndreNapier

Frank,
I would assume you are using a prism instead of WLF. I could not focus the prism if my life depended on it, but WLF dark???
I shoot 90+% in studio. I can focus with 200w Broncolor ring on Para light from across the studio and I do not have perfect eyes.
Andre

Andre you must have laser eyes, b/c I have 20/20 vision and had a HELL of time focusing with the regular RZ prism WLF screen. it was close to impossible. AS every one knows I was ripped off by s seller of my Bill Maxell screen so never got to try it out.
I did by another mamiya split screen prism which is better to focus with but still it is not the easiest of the bunch to focus and I usually have a strained eye at the end of the day shooting in studio with profoto and 500 watt modeling lights!!!!

Snook

PS. I have the PD prism finder which SUCKS and looks like you looking down a long dark tube!!
Does any body recommend the AE newer Prism finders or are they just as horrible?

Been trying to win one of ebay rather cheap but not sure if I would be wasting my money.
The PD prism which is really cheap is just crap!

AndreNapier · « **Reply #25 on:** June 14, 2009, 09:29:53 pm »

Viewing through PD prism is identical to AE prism. Same glass.
andre

Quote from: Snook

Andre you must have laser eyes, b/c I have 20/20 vision and had a HELL of time focusing with the regular RZ prism WLF screen. it was close to impossible. AS every one knows I was ripped off by s seller of my Bill Maxell screen so never got to try it out.
I did by another mamiya split screen prism which is better to focus with but still it is not the easiest of the bunch to focus and I usually have a strained eye at the end of the day shooting in studio with profoto and 500 watt modeling lights!!!!

Snook

PS. I have the PD prism finder which SUCKS and looks like you looking down a long dark tube!!
Does any body recommend the AE newer Prism finders or are they just as horrible?

Been trying to win one of ebay rather cheap but not sure if I would be wasting my money.
The PD prism which is really cheap is just crap!

Phil Indeblanc · « **Reply #26 on:** June 16, 2009, 03:40:35 pm »

I have used the much loved (Beatie?) after market sceen and a split RZ screen, and both are tough to do critical focus. This with 2-4 250w modeling lights(still need to squint with my 20/20 vision). I use the prizm with a magnify loop on it, that flips up. This is the best method I found. As far as the lens I like.... the wide 37, its fun, 180, 65 and the 140 for serious stuff. Focusing is a bit differnt on the RZ glass as it has the distance ring, and this on the 140 makes a difference. Its been a few months since I have used it, as I got tired of trying to figure out the motor drive to lens setting (M,R..etc) and what shutter release setting it needs to be on (white dot, orange, ?), etc. The issues I had with the RZ, I am sure are things I didn't allow to really sink in for me to be fully grasp, as I didn't need them on a day to day basis to be natural with the system. That can be with any system. Having said that....

I think the RZ can do everything the Hy6 can in regards to the points Foto-z makes. As much as I love a well made durable product like the Hy6 looks to be(the RZ's plastic on the WLF corner where you lock and unlock it from the body has chipped off, yet still functions and locks).... I can't see where it makes a $10k+ leap over the RZ as a MF system. I finally put it aside when the limitation of the Tiltshift bellows and the fact that you really can't measure your extensions without jotting things down, for me had too many drawbacks for my shooting at the time. Are my Rod glasses better, yes, but depending on the subject, is it detectable. I will still use my RZ for the jobs that fit best for it.

What are the main benifits of the Pro IID vs the ProII....As far as using a PhaseOne back with it (not a Mamiya back)? I would think you still need a RZ to V adapter (for v backs)?

Alex MacPherson · « **Reply #27 on:** June 16, 2009, 06:39:26 pm »

Quote from: Phil Indeblanc

I have used the much loved (Beatie?) after market sceen and a split RZ screen, and both are tough to do critical focus. This with 2-4 250w modeling lights(still need to squint with my 20/20 vision). I use the prizm with a magnify loop on it, that flips up. This is the best method I found. As far as the lens I like.... the wide 37, its fun, 180, 65 and the 140 for serious stuff. Focusing is a bit differnt on the RZ glass as it has the distance ring, and this on the 140 makes a difference. Its been a few months since I have used it, as I got tired of trying to figure out the motor drive to lens setting (M,R..etc) and what shutter release setting it needs to be on (white dot, orange, ?), etc. The issues I had with the RZ, I am sure are things I didn't allow to really sink in for me to be fully grasp, as I didn't need them on a day to day basis to be natural with the system. That can be with any system. Having said that....

I think the RZ can do everything the Hy6 can in regards to the points Foto-z makes. As much as I love a well made durable product like the Hy6 looks to be(the RZ's plastic on the WLF corner where you lock and unlock it from the body has chipped off, yet still functions and locks).... I can't see where it makes a $10k+ leap over the RZ as a MF system. I finally put it aside when the limitation of the Tiltshift bellows and the fact that you really can't measure your extensions without jotting things down, for me had too many drawbacks for my shooting at the time. Are my Rod glasses better, yes, but depending on the subject, is it detectable. I will still use my RZ for the jobs that fit best for it.

What are the main benifits of the Pro IID vs the ProII....As far as using a PhaseOne back with it (not a Mamiya back)? I would think you still need a RZ to V adapter (for v backs)?

@phil

The ProIID doesn't require connecting cables with the Phase One. It was the deciding factor for me to get the Pro IID

http://www.phaseone.com/Content/Support/Ar...mp;languageid=1

Snook · « **Reply #28 on:** June 16, 2009, 06:45:02 pm »

I am looking at buying a 50 mm right now and was wondering if there is a BIG difference between the ULD and NON ULD version of this lens.
Does anybody know what the difference is and would be on a P30 RZIID combo?
Thanks for any information.
Is one sharper than the other or does it just have less CA?
Thank you.
PS. I will be shooting people mainly in studio but will shoot outdoors as well.

Snook

AndreNapier · « **Reply #29 on:** June 16, 2009, 07:09:26 pm »

Snook,
I am a lens maniac so I have both.
For fun macro work ULD focuses much closer than regular. ULD is also substantially sharper if properly set up on a distance.
However they are both quite dark lenses and not as good as 65mm.
andre

here 50mm ULD at its best
shooting distance about 4 inches

Snook · « **Reply #30 on:** June 16, 2009, 07:20:18 pm »

Thanks andre I appreciate it..
I have the 65 and love it.. Just wanted to try a little wider considering I have a P30 that is not full frame so I lose a bit.

Do you find the 50mm to wide for most work re: people portrait/fashion.
I shoot mainly fashion and use the RZ for just fashion work really.

Also on a side note which extension tubes do you recommend to start out with.
I have the 65,90,110,127,145mm "M",180. I shoot a lot of beauty as well. which would be good for getting up pretty close for like an eye or Lip shot with the 145 macro?
Do you know which tube/s I would need. Sure hate to buy extra stuff and where I live there is zero chance of trying stuff out first...:+}
Thanks again.

Snook

PS. I still do not know how you focus so easily with your RZ..:+} My eyes are really tired at the end of the day.

asf · « **Reply #31 on:** June 16, 2009, 07:20:57 pm »

having owned and used both i can agree with andre - the ULD is far superior, and setting the distance properly on the floating element makes a big difference
it is not quite as good as the 65, which is a fantastic lens, but very close in my opinion

the old 50 W was pretty good for shooting 665 negs

AndreNapier · « **Reply #32 on:** June 16, 2009, 11:21:32 pm »

Quote from: Snook

Thanks andre I appreciate it..
I have the 65 and love it.. Just wanted to try a little wider considering I have a P30 that is not full frame so I lose a bit.

Snook

PS. I still do not know how you focus so easily with your RZ..:+} My eyes are really tired at the end of the day.

I do not know if it will make sens to you but after years of using it I know where the focus is. I never go back and forth like with other cameras. I turn the knob and the moment the focus is there I shoot without giving model a chance to move. I am composing the same time that focusing. It works for me with -1.5 diopter. My shooting rate is about 40 and I shot mostly 4.0 or 5.6 with 90+% in focus.

Do you find the 50mm to wide for most work re: people portrait/fashion.
I shoot mainly fashion and use the RZ for just fashion work really.

50mm is a beautiful length but very difficult to work with correctly. 50mm also makes a great portrait lens ( for some models )

I will try the extensions tomorrow. I do not use them a lot.
Andre

Also on a side note which extension tubes do you recommend to start out with.
I have the 65,90,110,127,145mm "M",180. I shoot a lot of beauty as well. which would be good for getting up pretty close for like an eye or Lip shot with the 145 macro?
Do you know which tube/s I would need. Sure hate to buy extra stuff and where I live there is zero chance of trying stuff out first...:+}
Thanks again.

Alex MacPherson · « **Reply #33 on:** June 17, 2009, 04:41:43 pm »

Quote from: AndreNapier

I do not know if it will make sens to you but after years of using it I know where the focus is. I never go back and forth like with other cameras. I turn the knob and the moment the focus is there I shoot without giving model a chance to move. I am composing the same time that focusing. It works for me with -1.5 diopter. My shooting rate is about 40 and I shot mostly 4.0 or 5.6 with 90+% in focus.

Do you find the 50mm to wide for most work re: people portrait/fashion.
I shoot mainly fashion and use the RZ for just fashion work really.

50mm is a beautiful length but very difficult to work with correctly. 50mm also makes a great portrait lens ( for some models )

I will try the extensions tomorrow. I do not use them a lot.
Andre

Also on a side note which extension tubes do you recommend to start out with.
I have the 65,90,110,127,145mm "M",180. I shoot a lot of beauty as well. which would be good for getting up pretty close for like an eye or Lip shot with the 145 macro?
Do you know which tube/s I would need. Sure hate to buy extra stuff and where I live there is zero chance of trying stuff out first...:+}
Thanks again.

I would love to see some sample fashion images shot with the 50mm and the 65mm if you have any

Phil Indeblanc · « **Reply #34 on:** June 18, 2009, 03:22:40 am »

Do you use the motor drive? It sometimes starts to wind and doesnt stop, then I turn the dail to M, and it stops, but then doesnt fire on the shutter button on white, or while the dail is on R, then the shutter switch needs to be on orange...hehehe, Once I got it working, it was great. Then I set it down for a week or 2, and again the hoops and hurdles to get it "synced"....I forget! ...I want to love it(when I get it running I do)..... I should jot down some notes on the setup and keep in on the camera so i don't frustrate myself everytime I want to use it. :-) So on the ProIID, you still need the adapter plate, but not the communication cable. Nice...Is it just convenience, or perhaps something else ?

TMARK · « **Reply #35 on:** June 18, 2009, 04:48:59 pm »

Quote from: Dolce Moda Photography

@phil

The ProIID doesn't require connecting cables with the Phase One. It was the deciding factor for me to get the Pro IID

http://www.phaseone.com/Content/Support/Ar...mp;languageid=1

The ProIID uses the same crappy Mamiya Serial Interface as the originla AFd. It sucks, is unreliable, and slow. Save the money and get an RZ Pro (not II) and a Leaf plate, and use the cable. Its no big deal.

As to focusing, what Andre said is absolutely correct: You have to sort of train yourself to know when an image is in focus. I used the RZ with film for years, with the matt daigonal split screen. I know when its in focus. I get 85% in focus, using either day light, modeling lights, or even room light with F4 lenses.

As to lenses, the 65 is nice, the 110 the nicest. The 180 W-N is the bees knees for beauty. be warned, the 65 is very sharp and if used too close t the subject result in forced perspective distortion. It takes a while to figure out how close you can use it on a human subject.

Good luck.

sergio · « **Reply #36 on:** June 18, 2009, 08:14:38 pm »

Focusing my RZs was a delight after coming from Hasselblad 500 systems. That is a hard system to focus. I found RZ bellows focusing way better in that regard. What you do have to have in account is that as in LF you have to compensate exposure for bellows extension, especially when focusing really close. There is a scale on the side that makes that easier.

Frank Doorhof · « **Reply #37 on:** June 19, 2009, 01:47:43 am »

@Tmark,
Why a Pro and not a ProII.
I agree on the ProIID by the way, I also use a ProII for the same reasons.

On focussing, when used to it it's indeed fast especially with a splitscreen which I use, the microadjust is a dream for closeup portrait work.
But with the original it was too much guess work unless I put my modelling lamps on full power.

Snook · « **Reply #38 on:** June 22, 2009, 07:34:01 pm »

Here are 2 recently with the 65mm.
I really like this lens.
I have the "D" an prefer not having another cable but I got a good deal on my "D"
Snook
[attachment=14771:Vanidades_49981_T_.jpg]
[attachment=14772:Vanidades_50189_T_.jpg]

Alex MacPherson · « **Reply #39 on:** June 23, 2009, 01:54:02 pm »

Quote from: Snook

Here are 2 recently with the 65mm.
I really like this lens.
I have the "D" an prefer not having another cable but I got a good deal on my "D"
Snook
[attachment=14771:Vanidades_49981_T_.jpg]
[attachment=14772:Vanidades_50189_T_.jpg]

Thanks Snook

Somehow I was expecting the images to be "wider" meaning showing a little wide angle distortion (which I kinda like for some fashion shots)

Author Topic: RZ Pro II lenses (Read 13248 times)

Snook

Snook

Snook

Snook