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Author Topic: RZ Pro II lenses  (Read 13251 times)

Alex MacPherson

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« on: June 12, 2009, 04:14:40 am »

Hey. I am looking at getting the RZ67 Pro II system.

What are your favorite lenses for fashion/beauty photography?
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Graham Mitchell

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« Reply #1 on: June 12, 2009, 05:01:42 am »

With film or a digital back? It makes a huge difference to the FOV on the RZ.
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Frank Doorhof

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« Reply #2 on: June 12, 2009, 06:47:01 am »

Hi,
The 180mm is great and I recently got the 140mm macro that I really like.
Both used on a Leaf Aptus 22.
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Snook

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« Reply #3 on: June 12, 2009, 09:56:10 am »

I too love the RZ in studio...
I really like the contrast the lens have also.
My favorites are the 110 and 145 and the 180 for beauty..:+}
You can get a whole set up for relatively cheap now a days.
here are some recent beauties with that set up..:+}
http://luminous-landscape.com/forum/index....st&p=284689

Snook

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AndreNapier

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« Reply #4 on: June 12, 2009, 10:43:50 am »

The lens that produces 90% of my work is 110mm. Just love it from wide open all the way to 5.6. This lens rivals my 110/2.0 on AFI.
Since I got the AFI to Rz adapter the back never goes back on AFI.
65mm is also outstanding lens. I never shoot longer than 110mm on digital.
50mm is so so.
75mm is nice but heavy.
90mm is a good lens but not as magical as 110mm
I shoot Rz digital for many years.
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sergio

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« Reply #5 on: June 12, 2009, 12:46:43 pm »

The 110 2.8 is a must have. It was my workhorse for many years.
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clawery

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« Reply #6 on: June 12, 2009, 01:07:37 pm »

Quote from: sergio
The 110 2.8 is a must have. It was my workhorse for many years.


I have to agree that the 110mm is my workhorse and I use it 80% of the time.  I love the look
of the 180mm, but you will need some space to be able to pull back if you need to do full length.
As another post had mentioned, lens choice will be effected by the lens factor of the digital back.


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michele

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« Reply #7 on: June 12, 2009, 01:07:40 pm »

I know it's a different question and i know that the mamiya 645 and the RZ are different cameras, but how do you compare the sharpness and cromatic aberration between Digital 645 and analogic rz lenses?

AndreNapier

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« Reply #8 on: June 12, 2009, 01:52:12 pm »

Coke and diet Coke
some people can not taste the difference.
Andre
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Frank Doorhof

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« Reply #9 on: June 12, 2009, 03:04:30 pm »

I use both on a regular base.
The quality is different, I find the images of the RZ more 3D looking.
Sharpness varies per lens, the 120mm macro of the 645AFD is stunning but the 55-110 is avarage.
On the RZ the sharpness of the 110/180/140 is scary when proper focussed.
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Snook

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« Reply #10 on: June 12, 2009, 03:17:12 pm »

The 55-110 has to be the SHITTIEST lens I have EVER used. Cannot focus less than like 20 feet (LOL)
and it hunts and hunts to focus under my profoto 500 watt modeling lights!! and the quality is CRAP!
Did I make my point clear...:+]
Snook
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michele

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« Reply #11 on: June 12, 2009, 03:21:09 pm »

Thank you Frank, Andre, Snook

Frank Doorhof

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« Reply #12 on: June 12, 2009, 03:45:10 pm »

@Snook.
Remove the lens and turn it upside down on the table.
You see a sort of screw, this is the AF control.
Take a screwdriver and turn it a bit, also use some oil to make sure everything is loose and running fine.
But start with just turning it a bit and now test it again.

my 55-110 frontfocussed like crazy and could not lock focus.
I decided that before sending it in I would look at it myself and check if all the screws were tight and running perfectly.
Everything was perfect and I turned the focusscrew just to see if it would run, to my BIG surprise when I reconnected the lens it focussed great and did not hunt anymore and focus was spot on.
On paper this should never happen but it did.
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Snook

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« Reply #13 on: June 12, 2009, 04:32:38 pm »

Quote from: Frank Doorhof
@Snook.
Remove the lens and turn it upside down on the table.
You see a sort of screw, this is the AF control.
Take a screwdriver and turn it a bit, also use some oil to make sure everything is loose and running fine.
But start with just turning it a bit and now test it again.

my 55-110 frontfocussed like crazy and could not lock focus.
I decided that before sending it in I would look at it myself and check if all the screws were tight and running perfectly.
Everything was perfect and I turned the focusscrew just to see if it would run, to my BIG surprise when I reconnected the lens it focussed great and did not hunt anymore and focus was spot on.
On paper this should never happen but it did.

Cool Thanks Frank for the Information, I will try it next time in the studio..:+]
Shot a campaign the other day with some local actresses and the dang thing kept searching and searching and I missed many shots because of it. It was really embarrassing to say the least.
Thanks and I will let you know how it worked out.
Snook

PS. Frank,Turn it  Counter Clockwise or Clockwise? or is it just a matter off trying both?
Thanks for any further info..:+]

« Last Edit: June 12, 2009, 05:33:28 pm by Snook »
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Alex MacPherson

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« Reply #14 on: June 12, 2009, 08:44:05 pm »

Wow thanks everyone!

Is it worthwhile to get a split-prism focusing screen? I really miss having in on my dslr. (I know I should trust AF but I don't)

I will be shooting film for the first while before I get my digital back. I will probably end up with a Phase One P21 to start with.



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Frank Doorhof

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« Reply #15 on: June 13, 2009, 02:32:12 am »

In reality it should not work at all so I guess turning any way.
I just did to check if everything worked before sending it away, and it still works today.
So what happened I don't know but it worked for me.
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Frank Doorhof

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« Reply #16 on: June 13, 2009, 02:33:13 am »

@Dolca,
I'm using a custom focusscreen from brightscreen, they are not cheap but they really make a HUGE difference in the studio.
They have several options.
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marcel b

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« Reply #17 on: June 13, 2009, 02:51:35 am »

hi,

on film my favorite lenses were the 90, 127 and 180, with my back i'm shooting most of the time the 90 and 140, occassionally the 65. first thing, i sold, when i got my back, was the 250, but I'm still looking for a 50

best regards,
marcel
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Alex MacPherson

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« Reply #18 on: June 13, 2009, 03:11:07 pm »

Brightscreens website is the shits! I tried to order a screen and I couldn't figure out how to
get the right model or even how to get to the cart!

bleh!

Anyways, I have made an offer on a Pro IID. I might soon be a member of Club RZ67  
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AndreNapier

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« Reply #19 on: June 13, 2009, 09:49:29 pm »

Quote from: Dolce Moda Photography
Brightscreens website is the shits! I tried to order a screen and I couldn't figure out how to
get the right model or even how to get to the cart!

bleh!

Anyways, I have made an offer on a Pro IID. I might soon be a member of Club RZ67  

If you shooting WLF try first to use Mamiya screen. I find it much superior to Maxwell or Beatie. I have them all.
Yes they are brighter but all the circle lines interfer with fine detail focusing for me. Mamiya screen is plenty bright with WLF.
Also remember that every time you change the screen on Rz you need to adjust focus. Focusing screws are right below the screen.
My Bright Screen was originally 10' off on 30' distance.
Andre
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