Pages: [1] 2   Go Down

Author Topic: Profoto Air  (Read 16578 times)

CBarrett

  • Guest
Profoto Air
« on: May 24, 2009, 10:43:06 am »

I just spent a week in DC shooting interiors, "Yes, Ma'am that's right.... checking 11 bags" and took along my brand new Profoto D1 monoblocs, which worked really well.  We used them with daylight, we used them with hotlights we even just used the modeling lights... and I totally dig the Air Remote.  When you have a strobe 10 feet up, perfectly placed and want to dial it down half a stop, you will love it too!

I was wondering, though, if anyone else has used the system?  I'm new to it, and looking forward to using the Air Studio software once the USB transmitter begins shipping.  I even downloaded the software in advance, but it refuses to launch on either of my MBP's.  I don't know if it's because I don't have a transmitter or a pack attached to the comp or what...

Shooting with a P45+ btw..... <--MFDB content

Also, anyone aware of an adapter that might fit in that little hole on top of an Arca standard (used to mount compendium hood) to a hotshoe?

Thanks!

Chris
Logged

william

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 472
Profoto Air
« Reply #1 on: May 24, 2009, 02:56:16 pm »

I use 'em and like them quite a bit, for the most part.  I was wondering about the Air software too -- I've only used them so far with the Air Remote, but it sounds like one must separately purchase the USB transmitter (not yet shipping) to use the Air software?  Is that correct?


FYI, I actually wrote up a little mini-review which I posted over on fredmiranda.  I'll paste it here (omitting the sample images, which you can see in the original FM thread: http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/767912/0#7046730)

"I got the D1 500 Air Kit, which includes two D1 500 monolights, 2 light stands, two umbrellas, and the Profoto Air Remote and software.

Preliminary notes:

(1) The package comes in a really nice secure soft/rigid case. Not a big deal, I know, but it's a nice convenient way to carry the lights and stands/umbrellas. The whole package in the case weighs about 15-ish pounds, so fairly easy to carry. Would have been nice if they'd put wheels and a telescoping handle on the case for traveling, though.

(2) The umbrellas are medium-sized and, being Profoto, quite well constructed. I hardly ever use umbrellas as main lights, but they work nicely for blowing out a white background.

(3) The included light stands, though, feel surprisingly cheap and flimsy. Definitely not the quality of the other items. I used them on the shoot yesterday because I was in a hurry and didn't feel like digging out my other light stands, but I'll be using my other (better) light stands from now on.

(4) The heads themselves are very solid, well constructed, and intuitive, at least for someone who's used Profoto before (I used to have a Profoto D4 pack and heads). I figured out how they operate in about 10 minutes without needing to refer to the user's manual.

(5) The Air Remote took a little more time to figure out, but not much (especially once I looked at the manual!). It's fairly straightforward, with controls to adjust the power and turn off/on the heads either individually or in groups. It's much smaller than I pictured; it's a good (small but useable) size when sitting on the camera's hot shoe or in the hand.

So I get to the studio, set everything up (noticing the cheapo feel of the lightstands), slap the Air Remote on my camera, and start doing some test shots before the model arrives. First thing I notice is that there doesn't appear to be a locking mechanism to lock the Air Remote to the hot shoe. Granted, it's a pretty secure fit and didn't feel like it was gonna fall off. But still, how hard would it have been to include a hot shoe lock?

Second thing I noticed, when slipping the umbrella into one of the lights to use as a background light, is that there also doesn't appear to be a locking mechanism to hold the umbrella in its hole. (On most monolights I've used, there's a little screw on the bottom of the light that turns to secure the umbrella in the hole). Again, it didn't feel like it was going to fall out, but these things wear over time. Not a huge deal because I can just use a bracket on the lightstand that has a locking umbrella hole. But still.

Next I put my Profoto beauty dish on the second light. I could not for the life of me get the beauty dish to slide down even to the first zoom position on the head. I got it about 4 inches onto the head and it stopped. (I spent a lot of time trying to force it into different positions to get it on). This resulted in about a 3-4 inch space between the flash itself and the reflector disc in the middle of the beauty dish that reflects the light back into the pan. The problem could be my dish (perhaps the locking collar is too tight) but I don't think so because it slid all the way down on my D4 heads. It just seems like the circumference of the metal plate at the beauty dish opening is ever so slightly too narrow to let the head fully pass thru the dish opening. In other words, the metal circle that surrounds the flash head is just slightly too wide to pass through the metal circle that surrounds the opening of the beauty dish. I actually used a probably ill-advised amount of force to try to get it to go thru, but no luck. I was worried that this would result in the head being too far away from the reflector disc in the dish, resulting in light spill, but that doesn't seem to have been the case as far as I can tell.

Played around a bit to make sure I had the hang of adjusting the lights with the remote. No problem, worked smoothly. Using the one light with beauty dish as the main light for my test shots, I was getting about f8 at ISO 100 with the light about 6-7 feet from the object I was using for the test shots with the light turned up to about setting 8 (the power ranges goes in 1/10th increments, starting at 1 and going to 10). Not bad and if I can get f11-16 with it turned all the way up with the beauty dish, that's as high as I'll need for portrait work. The extra space between the head and the reflector disc might have resulted in a loss of efficiency though. The background was lit with the other head in the included umbrella, and I was getting f14 with it set at about 7 power, about 7-8 feet from the background.

Speaking of metering, I'm annoyed at having to hold the Air Remote in one hand and my Sekonic meter in the other hand in order to meter the flash. Would have been nice if they'd have made the Air system compatible with the built-in Pocketwizard triggers in Sekonic meters.

Starting shooting with the model. Recycling time was reasonable for portrait/fashion work. I didn't measure it objectively, but I never felt that I was ever waiting for the lights to be ready for the next shot. Air remote fired the strobes and made adjustments reliably every time. I didn't get a chance to test the Air software, but I will for the next shoot.

The resulting pics from the shoot came out well. That is, they looked how I expected shots with the Profoto beauty dish would look, which is good. I didn't notice any problems caused by the dreaded 77 degree built-in reflector not giving enough light spread for purposes of the beauty dish or the umbrella. I image this might be an issue when shooting with a large softbox, though, so I'll be ordering the glass dome that increases the beam spread.

All in all, I quite like the D1 lights."



Quote from: CBarrett
I just spent a week in DC shooting interiors, "Yes, Ma'am that's right.... checking 11 bags" and took along my brand new Profoto D1 monoblocs, which worked really well.  We used them with daylight, we used them with hotlights we even just used the modeling lights... and I totally dig the Air Remote.  When you have a strobe 10 feet up, perfectly placed and want to dial it down half a stop, you will love it too!

I was wondering, though, if anyone else has used the system?  I'm new to it, and looking forward to using the Air Studio software once the USB transmitter begins shipping.  I even downloaded the software in advance, but it refuses to launch on either of my MBP's.  I don't know if it's because I don't have a transmitter or a pack attached to the comp or what...

Shooting with a P45+ btw..... <--MFDB content

Also, anyone aware of an adapter that might fit in that little hole on top of an Arca standard (used to mount compendium hood) to a hotshoe?

Thanks!

Chris
Logged

CBarrett

  • Guest
Profoto Air
« Reply #2 on: May 25, 2009, 10:35:01 am »

Hey William,

I think I read your review prior to ordering mine.  I skipped the kit and went with 4 heads, already having plenty of stands and umbrellas.  It does seem like the umbrellas fit really loosely but they don't fall out.  I happened to have an acute kit on hand and I threw a zoom refelctor on the D1 to see if it affected direct output.  To my surprise, I gained 1.1 stops.  Since these don't have the domed diffuser, I wouldn't have expected the reflector to gather much stray light.

The Air Remotes seem to have 30% less range than PW's which is a drag...

At some point I'm going to need to add some more strobe and I can't quite decide on going with more D1's or a pack and heads for that little extra oomph...

-cb
Logged

Snook

  • Guest
Profoto Air
« Reply #3 on: May 25, 2009, 07:47:31 pm »

Quote from: william
I use 'em and like them quite a bit, for the most part.  I was wondering about the Air software too -- I've only used them so far with the Air Remote, but it sounds like one must separately purchase the USB transmitter (not yet shipping) to use the Air software?  Is that correct?


FYI, I actually wrote up a little mini-review which I posted over on fredmiranda.  I'll paste it here (omitting the sample images, which you can see in the original FM thread: http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/767912/0#7046730)

"I got the D1 500 Air Kit, which includes two D1 500 monolights, 2 light stands, two umbrellas, and the Profoto Air Remote and software.

Preliminary notes:

(1) The package comes in a really nice secure soft/rigid case. Not a big deal, I know, but it's a nice convenient way to carry the lights and stands/umbrellas. The whole package in the case weighs about 15-ish pounds, so fairly easy to carry. Would have been nice if they'd put wheels and a telescoping handle on the case for traveling, though.

(2) The umbrellas are medium-sized and, being Profoto, quite well constructed. I hardly ever use umbrellas as main lights, but they work nicely for blowing out a white background.

(3) The included light stands, though, feel surprisingly cheap and flimsy. Definitely not the quality of the other items. I used them on the shoot yesterday because I was in a hurry and didn't feel like digging out my other light stands, but I'll be using my other (better) light stands from now on.

(4) The heads themselves are very solid, well constructed, and intuitive, at least for someone who's used Profoto before (I used to have a Profoto D4 pack and heads). I figured out how they operate in about 10 minutes without needing to refer to the user's manual.

(5) The Air Remote took a little more time to figure out, but not much (especially once I looked at the manual!). It's fairly straightforward, with controls to adjust the power and turn off/on the heads either individually or in groups. It's much smaller than I pictured; it's a good (small but useable) size when sitting on the camera's hot shoe or in the hand.

So I get to the studio, set everything up (noticing the cheapo feel of the lightstands), slap the Air Remote on my camera, and start doing some test shots before the model arrives. First thing I notice is that there doesn't appear to be a locking mechanism to lock the Air Remote to the hot shoe. Granted, it's a pretty secure fit and didn't feel like it was gonna fall off. But still, how hard would it have been to include a hot shoe lock?

Second thing I noticed, when slipping the umbrella into one of the lights to use as a background light, is that there also doesn't appear to be a locking mechanism to hold the umbrella in its hole. (On most monolights I've used, there's a little screw on the bottom of the light that turns to secure the umbrella in the hole). Again, it didn't feel like it was going to fall out, but these things wear over time. Not a huge deal because I can just use a bracket on the lightstand that has a locking umbrella hole. But still.

Next I put my Profoto beauty dish on the second light. I could not for the life of me get the beauty dish to slide down even to the first zoom position on the head. I got it about 4 inches onto the head and it stopped. (I spent a lot of time trying to force it into different positions to get it on). This resulted in about a 3-4 inch space between the flash itself and the reflector disc in the middle of the beauty dish that reflects the light back into the pan. The problem could be my dish (perhaps the locking collar is too tight) but I don't think so because it slid all the way down on my D4 heads. It just seems like the circumference of the metal plate at the beauty dish opening is ever so slightly too narrow to let the head fully pass thru the dish opening. In other words, the metal circle that surrounds the flash head is just slightly too wide to pass through the metal circle that surrounds the opening of the beauty dish. I actually used a probably ill-advised amount of force to try to get it to go thru, but no luck. I was worried that this would result in the head being too far away from the reflector disc in the dish, resulting in light spill, but that doesn't seem to have been the case as far as I can tell.

Played around a bit to make sure I had the hang of adjusting the lights with the remote. No problem, worked smoothly. Using the one light with beauty dish as the main light for my test shots, I was getting about f8 at ISO 100 with the light about 6-7 feet from the object I was using for the test shots with the light turned up to about setting 8 (the power ranges goes in 1/10th increments, starting at 1 and going to 10). Not bad and if I can get f11-16 with it turned all the way up with the beauty dish, that's as high as I'll need for portrait work. The extra space between the head and the reflector disc might have resulted in a loss of efficiency though. The background was lit with the other head in the included umbrella, and I was getting f14 with it set at about 7 power, about 7-8 feet from the background.

Speaking of metering, I'm annoyed at having to hold the Air Remote in one hand and my Sekonic meter in the other hand in order to meter the flash. Would have been nice if they'd have made the Air system compatible with the built-in Pocketwizard triggers in Sekonic meters.

Starting shooting with the model. Recycling time was reasonable for portrait/fashion work. I didn't measure it objectively, but I never felt that I was ever waiting for the lights to be ready for the next shot. Air remote fired the strobes and made adjustments reliably every time. I didn't get a chance to test the Air software, but I will for the next shoot.

The resulting pics from the shoot came out well. That is, they looked how I expected shots with the Profoto beauty dish would look, which is good. I didn't notice any problems caused by the dreaded 77 degree built-in reflector not giving enough light spread for purposes of the beauty dish or the umbrella. I image this might be an issue when shooting with a large softbox, though, so I'll be ordering the glass dome that increases the beam spread.

All in all, I quite like the D1 lights."



The umbrella hole is not like the acutes or 7's where there is like a little metal ball inside the tube so it keeps pressure on the shaft of the umbrella?
That's how all Profoto heads have been almost since day one.
They never had any screws or knobs. Bowens have screws but they are on the outside of the reflector which I do not like.
The profoto system is the best as the light is more center than most other brands.

How is the new way of attaching umbrellas to the D-1?
Thanks
Snook

I was thinking of getting a kit also. I think elinchrom has had a remote system for a while an almost switched over to Elinchrom for that reason along with better or shorter flash durations.

Also if there is a 30% loss in usage over pocket wizards that stinks.
Would have been nice to incorporate it with Pocket wizards.
« Last Edit: May 25, 2009, 07:49:58 pm by Snook »
Logged

perbernal

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 76
Profoto Air
« Reply #4 on: May 26, 2009, 09:21:43 am »

Quote from: Snook
The umbrella hole is not like the acutes or 7's where there is like a little metal ball inside the tube so it keeps pressure on the shaft of the umbrella?
That's how all Profoto heads have been almost since day one.
They never had any screws or knobs. Bowens have screws but they are on the outside of the reflector which I do not like.
The profoto system is the best as the light is more center than most other brands.

How is the new way of attaching umbrellas to the D-1?
Thanks
Snook

I was thinking of getting a kit also. I think elinchrom has had a remote system for a while an almost switched over to Elinchrom for that reason along with better or shorter flash durations.

Also if there is a 30% loss in usage over pocket wizards that stinks.
Would have been nice to incorporate it with Pocket wizards.

Hi Guys,

If you´re interested, here´s my input, good and bad, on the new Profoto D 1´s. I had the chance to try the new system in mid April and have since then purchased three complete 500 Air kits that I have been using on both studio and location including the outdoors. After 12 days of shooting I´m pretty impressed to say the least. But first let´s start with what could have been made better in my opinion:

Umbrella hole - When used in a 45 degree angle or more the enclosed white umbrella do have a tendency to shift position. Previous construction in older heads are better.

On/off - When plugging in the head, unit needs to be turned on manually and cannot be turned on by the remote control. This is a big minus especially if you need to move around a lot and unplug the unit. When plugged in you are able to easily turn it on/off.

Spread of light - When used inside a big light source such as Profoto´s 5, 7 or 8, the spread of the light is less effective compared to the traditional open faced Profoto heads and gives an altered look. It does work but not as good as it should. I have used the heads in Chimera strip banks without any problems though.

Flash sync/triggering - This is a little bit of trouble if you´re used to Pocket Wizards and flash meters with a built in remote triggers. You need to get new cables in order to plug these into the new D1 as this air unit doesn´t come with the standard sync socket. Pocket Wizard sell these cables at roughly $25.00/cable. You do have the option to manually trigger the flashes via the air remote and do manual flash reading but it involves removing air device from camera socket and remembering to put it back at time of shooting. I recommend to get an extra air remote to keep in your pocket and use to trigger flashes when making readings as well as controlling
light output - good to have as back-up as well:)

Remote control - Remote has a tendency to fall "asleep" between shots when not used frequently enough. Saves battery life, which is excellent by the way compared to the Wizards, but you have to remember to wake it up before you start to shoot. Also, there´s no hot shoe locking mechanism and the Air Remote tends to movein the socket depending on how you or your assistants handles the camera. Otherwise it´s a real good device with neat functions.

Mount - The unit is very nicely put together. Only real minus is the actual stand adapter with it´s plastic screw that doesn´t measure up and is hard to get really tight.

And now to the good stuff;

Acute killer? - In my opinion these new D1 units may well replace the whole line-up of Profoto Acute products. To me it´s a cross product that covers a lot of possible areas and usages. If I was able to turn back time or would start fresh,  I would never have purchased all my Acutes (600 B´s, 1200 & 2400´s + heads - 4 of each   - offers anyone?),  and gotten the D1´s instead thus saving a lot of money and space. They are light weight and great for travel (I fitted 6 heads, power cables, 2 grid reflectors & 2 zoom reflectors in a Tenba Medium Air Case at 60+ lbs), you can use 3-4 of them simultaneously outdoors in combination with a Honda EU200ia generator (500Watt versions) and cheap 50 foot electrical cords or longer (less then $10.00 at Homedepot), weak enough when using just as fill flash with super fast recycling but still strong enough in studio situations at full power with still impressive recycle times. The light quality you will get with the enclosed umbrella blew my mind away when I used this unit for the first time. Without giving to much away this combo has a golden "Briese" look that you wouldn´t expect from such a simple set-up. Very different than when used with a traditional head

Grid reflectors, zoom reflectors, beauty dishes - I have not had a problem with the light quality with these devices. Instead it might even be improved in combination with the grid and zoom reflector. I find the light to be sculpted and defined with an even spread.

Chimera lanterns and pancakes - Not sufficient spread of light inside boxes to maximize quality of boxes.

Profoto 5, 7 & 8 giant reflectors - Light is to focused in center. Works but not as good as in combo with a traditional head.

Elinchrome Octa bank - Works OK. Make sure to keep white reflective fabric in center to improve spread. Traditional head still better.

Profoto Globes - Works OK. Spread from traditional heads better.

Chimera strip lights - No problems from what I can see when used as rim lights.

Umbrellas - Beautiful light in combination with Profoto´s white umbrella. Golden look reminiscent of Briese:) Gives great "pore texture" when shooting B&W portraits.

Light weight - Great for travel and location work. No need for heavy and expensive head extension cords. You can buy "regular" 50 foot 13 Amp outdoor electrical extension cords at any Homedepot etc. for less than $10.00/unit.

Asymmetrical - Each D1 unit is self contained and asymmetrical contrary to any Acute pack (besides the 600B´s) unless you use only one head per pack, where you have to use the A & B channels in different configurations depending on the light output. I agree that the Acutes punch a lot more power but unless you use them at 50% power or more there´s no real advantage with the Acutes. Instead this will considerably slow the recycling time & the flash duration (unable to freeze a fast moving person or object without artifacts). A remedy is to increase the ISO in the camera from 100 to 200 thus doubling the output of your D1´s without any major image loss.

Location usage - I did a studio shoot on location less  than two weeks ago involving 30+ mma athletes and appx. 2500+ frames of portraits and fast moving action shots over a period of 4 hours. I was using Canon 1DS Marks III's at a very fast pace where I was constantly hitting the 10 frame buffer. The light set-up consisted of two rim lights at 80% output and two front lights at 45% and 60% output. ISO 100, F-stop 11. Not once did any lights not sync without triggering any fuses despite splitting the units on only two outlets.

Outdoor usage - I just finished a bikini layout at a body shop in Venice, CA, where I was using a Honda generator with three heads, a fan for hair and a laptop. Besides the noise (not to bad) the power source was very reliable and contrary to the 7B´s or 600B´s I was able to use the modeling lamp at all time. No guess work with other word.  

Studio Usage - If you ever consider putting up a rail system for your lights in your studio the D1 Air would be a good option in order to save floor space and keep your studio less cluttered. Personally I still prefer to use my old asymmetrical D4´s + Acute heads for main lights since I already have them. But unless you are able to get these or the Pro 7 or 8´s to an incredible deal I would definitely invest fully in the new D1´s in combination with 1 or 2 acute packs with a few heads to use with certain light modifiers the requires a larger light spread.

Ring flash - It´s a no show which is unfortunate. But since I rarely use the ringflash in a traditional fashion (usually as a fill) I have been able to duplicate the look by mounting a ProRing Diffuser on a Zoom Reflector and blocking of the lens hole with black foil.

Conclusion - I don´t think most photographers have realized the significants of this new product from Profoto. The concept of self contained mono blocks is nothing new as they have represented an entry level for beginning photographers. The difference here though is the built quality, quality of light output and the advanced and reliable technology of the D1 aimed at pro shooters and that will compete with Profoto´s own top items. The risk here is that Profoto has shot themself in the foot  by launching a product this good in the same way as Canon did when releasing the new Canon 5DII, leaving owners of 1Ds MARK III´s with a piece of equipment that will be worth close to nothing at the launch of next generation of the 1 Ds camera. I predict that the sale of the Profoto Acute, D4 and Pro 8 line will hit rock bottom and that anyone that tries to sell these units 2nd hand will have a hard time recouping their investment. The big winner will be the D1 system as long as the prizes don´t go up and Profoto keeps running their special promotions. With the rumored battery accessories and glass that will give a greater spread of light Profoto has really created a cross product that covers everything from studio to location shooting and that has an incredible potential.

Personally I´m very excited as it will simplify my photography in many ways at the same time as it sadden me as the stocks and value of my "old" gear is going downhill fast. Anyone interested in used Acutes in as good as new condition:) ?

P.S. If anyone over a Profoto reads this post you should really consider to sponsor me in some capacity. Not only am I a fellow Swede but I have been loyal to Profoto  since 1987 and the time of the old Pro 3  and with experience of your HMI, Tungsten and flash products + every word mentioned above is of my honest opinion and non-bias  D.S

 

Thanks for your time, Per Bernal



















Logged

Smallcooter

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 18
    • http://
Profoto Air
« Reply #5 on: May 26, 2009, 09:59:22 am »

Hej Per,

Hur ar du?

Useful and objective review.

Tack.

Schmal.

Logged

Snook

  • Guest
Profoto Air
« Reply #6 on: May 26, 2009, 10:11:07 am »

Quote from: perbernal
Hi Guys,

If you´re interested, here´s my input, good and bad, on the new Profoto D 1´s. I had the chance to try the new system in mid April and have since then purchased three complete 500 Air kits that I have been using on both studio and location including the outdoors. After 12 days of shooting I´m pretty impressed to say the least. But first let´s start with what could have been made better in my opinion:

Umbrella hole - When used in a 45 degree angle or more the enclosed white umbrella do have a tendency to shift position. Previous construction in older heads are better.

On/off - When plugging in the head, unit needs to be turned on manually and cannot be turned on by the remote control. This is a big minus especially if you need to move around a lot and unplug the unit. When plugged in you are able to easily turn it on/off.

Spread of light - When used inside a big light source such as Profoto´s 5, 7 or 8, the spread of the light is less effective compared to the traditional open faced Profoto heads and gives an altered look. It does work but not as good as it should. I have used the heads in Chimera strip banks without any problems though.

Flash sync/triggering - This is a little bit of trouble if you´re used to Pocket Wizards and flash meters with a built in remote triggers. You need to get new cables in order to plug these into the new D1 as this air unit doesn´t come with the standard sync socket. Pocket Wizard sell these cables at roughly $25.00/cable. You do have the option to manually trigger the flashes via the air remote and do manual flash reading but it involves removing air device from camera socket and remembering to put it back at time of shooting. I recommend to get an extra air remote to keep in your pocket and use to trigger flashes when making readings as well as controlling
light output - good to have as back-up as well:)

Remote control - Remote has a tendency to fall "asleep" between shots when not used frequently enough. Saves battery life, which is excellent by the way compared to the Wizards, but you have to remember to wake it up before you start to shoot. Also, there´s no hot shoe locking mechanism and the Air Remote tends to movein the socket depending on how you or your assistants handles the camera. Otherwise it´s a real good device with neat functions.

Mount - The unit is very nicely put together. Only real minus is the actual stand adapter with it´s plastic screw that doesn´t measure up and is hard to get really tight.

And now to the good stuff;

Acute killer? - In my opinion these new D1 units may well replace the whole line-up of Profoto Acute products. To me it´s a cross product that covers a lot of possible areas and usages. If I was able to turn back time or would start fresh,  I would never have purchased all my Acutes (600 B´s, 1200 & 2400´s + heads - 4 of each   - offers anyone?),  and gotten the D1´s instead thus saving a lot of money and space. They are light weight and great for travel (I fitted 6 heads, power cables, 2 grid reflectors & 2 zoom reflectors in a Tenba Medium Air Case at 60+ lbs), you can use 3-4 of them simultaneously outdoors in combination with a Honda EU200ia generator (500Watt versions) and cheap 50 foot electrical cords or longer (less then $10.00 at Homedepot), weak enough when using just as fill flash with super fast recycling but still strong enough in studio situations at full power with still impressive recycle times. The light quality you will get with the enclosed umbrella blew my mind away when I used this unit for the first time. Without giving to much away this combo has a golden "Briese" look that you wouldn´t expect from such a simple set-up. Very different than when used with a traditional head

Grid reflectors, zoom reflectors, beauty dishes - I have not had a problem with the light quality with these devices. Instead it might even be improved in combination with the grid and zoom reflector. I find the light to be sculpted and defined with an even spread.

Chimera lanterns and pancakes - Not sufficient spread of light inside boxes to maximize quality of boxes.

Profoto 5, 7 & 8 giant reflectors - Light is to focused in center. Works but not as good as in combo with a traditional head.

Elinchrome Octa bank - Works OK. Make sure to keep white reflective fabric in center to improve spread. Traditional head still better.

Profoto Globes - Works OK. Spread from traditional heads better.

Chimera strip lights - No problems from what I can see when used as rim lights.

Umbrellas - Beautiful light in combination with Profoto´s white umbrella. Golden look reminiscent of Briese:) Gives great "pore texture" when shooting B&W portraits.

Light weight - Great for travel and location work. No need for heavy and expensive head extension cords. You can buy "regular" 50 foot 13 Amp outdoor electrical extension cords at any Homedepot etc. for less than $10.00/unit.

Asymmetrical - Each D1 unit is self contained and asymmetrical contrary to any Acute pack (besides the 600B´s) unless you use only one head per pack, where you have to use the A & B channels in different configurations depending on the light output. I agree that the Acutes punch a lot more power but unless you use them at 50% power or more there´s no real advantage with the Acutes. Instead this will considerably slow the recycling time & the flash duration (unable to freeze a fast moving person or object without artifacts). A remedy is to increase the ISO in the camera from 100 to 200 thus doubling the output of your D1´s without any major image loss.

Location usage - I did a studio shoot on location less  than two weeks ago involving 30+ mma athletes and appx. 2500+ frames of portraits and fast moving action shots over a period of 4 hours. I was using Canon 1DS Marks III's at a very fast pace where I was constantly hitting the 10 frame buffer. The light set-up consisted of two rim lights at 80% output and two front lights at 45% and 60% output. ISO 100, F-stop 11. Not once did any lights not sync without triggering any fuses despite splitting the units on only two outlets.

Outdoor usage - I just finished a bikini layout at a body shop in Venice, CA, where I was using a Honda generator with three heads, a fan for hair and a laptop. Besides the noise (not to bad) the power source was very reliable and contrary to the 7B´s or 600B´s I was able to use the modeling lamp at all time. No guess work with other word.  

Studio Usage - If you ever consider putting up a rail system for your lights in your studio the D1 Air would be a good option in order to save floor space and keep your studio less cluttered. Personally I still prefer to use my old asymmetrical D4´s + Acute heads for main lights since I already have them. But unless you are able to get these or the Pro 7 or 8´s to an incredible deal I would definitely invest fully in the new D1´s in combination with 1 or 2 acute packs with a few heads to use with certain light modifiers the requires a larger light spread.

Ring flash - It´s a no show which is unfortunate. But since I rarely use the ringflash in a traditional fashion (usually as a fill) I have been able to duplicate the look by mounting a ProRing Diffuser on a Zoom Reflector and blocking of the lens hole with black foil.

Conclusion - I don´t think most photographers have realized the significants of this new product from Profoto. The concept of self contained mono blocks is nothing new as they have represented an entry level for beginning photographers. The difference here though is the built quality, quality of light output and the advanced and reliable technology of the D1 aimed at pro shooters and that will compete with Profoto´s own top items. The risk here is that Profoto has shot themself in the foot  by launching a product this good in the same way as Canon did when releasing the new Canon 5DII, leaving owners of 1Ds MARK III´s with a piece of equipment that will be worth close to nothing at the launch of next generation of the 1 Ds camera. I predict that the sale of the Profoto Acute, D4 and Pro 8 line will hit rock bottom and that anyone that tries to sell these units 2nd hand will have a hard time recouping their investment. The big winner will be the D1 system as long as the prizes don´t go up and Profoto keeps running their special promotions. With the rumored battery accessories and glass that will give a greater spread of light Profoto has really created a cross product that covers everything from studio to location shooting and that has an incredible potential.

Personally I´m very excited as it will simplify my photography in many ways at the same time as it sadden me as the stocks and value of my "old" gear is going downhill fast. Anyone interested in used Acutes in as good as new condition:) ?

P.S. If anyone over a Profoto reads this post you should really consider to sponsor me in some capacity. Not only am I a fellow Swede but I have been loyal to Profoto  since 1987 and the time of the old Pro 3  and with experience of your HMI, Tungsten and flash products + every word mentioned above is of my honest opinion and non-bias  D.S

 

Thanks for your time, Per Bernal


You did not have any trouble with the beauty dish like many have stated?
Also the Compact Mono Blocs were the WORST lights I have EVER owned. They always broke down needing the card inside to be replaced on them 3 times.
I finally through the units against a wall in my studo as I was sick of getting them repairded.
If you shoot fast they would over heat and shut down. I have owned profoto since day one and still have an acute alfa that is more than 12 years old and is still kicking out great light...:+]
But the Compact are crap!
Hopefully they have good repsonse on these new units!
Thanks for the information
Snook
Logged

James R Russell

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 992
    • http://www.russellrutherford.com/
Profoto Air
« Reply #7 on: May 26, 2009, 12:55:19 pm »

Quote from: Snook
You did not have any trouble with the beauty dish like many have stated?
..........................................
Hopefully they have good repsonse on these new units!
Thanks for the information
Snook


I've had great luck with my compacts but I've only had them less than a year, though we've used and abused them around the world.

I don't know if they will hold up as well as 7's or acutes, but they're very easy to travel with.

The only issue has been an assistant flipped the 220 to 110 card the wrong way though with some fiddling it started working.

I've haven't tried the D-1 airs, but I don't understand the head design.  The beauty of all profotos is the original head design and standard reflector than can produce an amazingly beautiful effect.  

The Airs look like some kind of combination of part frensel, part diffused snoot and I don't know how this translates without a modifier,  but I'd be hard pressed to switch.

JR

Logged

geesbert

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 642
    • http://www.randlkofer.com
Profoto Air
« Reply #8 on: May 26, 2009, 03:56:35 pm »

I haven't used them, but played with them at a roadshow. one minor annoying thing which struck me was that you cannot switch off the button beeps without switching of the ready signal. when you turn the power knob, it beebs with every increment. I hate that....

a great feature: the model light can be dimmed regardless of the flash power. with my d4 this cannot be done, which means, when I am at low power, the model lights are either useless or too bright, so they register.

I agree the compacts are a weak design. their power range is to little, flash duration is way to slow and even after a few years of use I still have to look to change a setting. the haven't had a single glitch in 5 years of use.
« Last Edit: May 26, 2009, 03:57:01 pm by geesbert »
Logged
-------------------------
[url=http://ww

william

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 472
Profoto Air
« Reply #9 on: May 26, 2009, 04:41:45 pm »

Hm.  I never though about this, but you're right. I sold my D4 pack a while ago, so I can't confirm this, but I think the pack allows you to set the modeling light to "max", "proportional", "max/proportional" and "1/2 proportional."  You're right, none of these options allow you to adjust the modeling light completely independently of the power settings of the strobes, while the D1 lights do.  Again, not an issue for me, but it is a nice little bit of extra control that you've pointed out.

Quote from: geesbert
a great feature: the model light can be dimmed regardless of the flash power. with my d4 this cannot be done, which means, when I am at low power, the model lights are either useless or too bright, so they register.
Logged

canmiya

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 158
    • beyond stills
Profoto Air
« Reply #10 on: May 26, 2009, 05:22:45 pm »

Quote from: perbernal
Hi Guys,

Spread of light - When used inside a big light source such as Profoto´s 5, 7 or 8, the spread of the light is less effective compared to the traditional open faced Profoto heads and gives an altered look. It does work but not as good as it should. I have used the heads in Chimera strip banks without any problems though.

Flash sync/triggering - This is a little bit of trouble if you´re used to Pocket Wizards and flash meters with a built in remote triggers. You need to get new cables in order to plug these into the new D1 as this air unit doesn´t come with the standard sync socket. Pocket Wizard sell these cables at roughly $25.00/cable. You do have the option to manually trigger the flashes via the air remote and do manual flash reading but it involves removing air device from camera socket and remembering to put it back at time of shooting. I recommend to get an extra air remote to keep in your pocket and use to trigger flashes when making readings as well as controlling
light output - good to have as back-up as well:)


 

Thanks for your time, Per Bernal

as far as triggering and metering, there is another option:  if you mount the air remote to a pw flexTT5 on camera, the d1's will fire when the sekonic meter is triggered. additionally  you retaiin all the functionality of the air remote for adjusting power, mod lights and firing zones at your fingertips.   this solution works well for me as i still have some pw equipped packs which i use along with the d1's and a pw equipped sekonic.

i agree with your observations with respect to the giant reflectors.  there is a noticable difference between spread with the d1/s and the traditional domed heads...i have been waiting for the optional dome to come in, and hopefully it wil increase the spread some...i will let you know...-
Logged

perbernal

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 76
Profoto Air
« Reply #11 on: May 26, 2009, 06:10:30 pm »

Quote from: Smallcooter
Hej Per,

Hur ar du?

Useful and objective review.

Tack.

Schmal.

All är fint:) Happy to put my input on this forum.
Logged

perbernal

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 76
Profoto Air
« Reply #12 on: May 26, 2009, 06:25:17 pm »

Quote from: Snook
You did not have any trouble with the beauty dish like many have stated?
Also the Compact Mono Blocs were the WORST lights I have EVER owned. They always broke down needing the card inside to be replaced on them 3 times.
I finally through the units against a wall in my studo as I was sick of getting them repairded.
If you shoot fast they would over heat and shut down. I have owned profoto since day one and still have an acute alfa that is more than 12 years old and is still kicking out great light...:+]
But the Compact are crap!
Hopefully they have good repsonse on these new units!
Thanks for the information
Snook

I had bad experienced with the old monoblocs myself. Traveled a lot between Sweden and the US in the mid 90´s and forgot to rotate the card at a few occasions which turned out to be costly. Same with overheating heads. The D1´s is a different animal though. Fast and very stable. I do use the beauty dishes occasionally but usually as rim lights. The D1´s modeling lamp does give a sharper shadow when hitting the center diffuser compared to traditional profoto heads but don´t know what the actual flash tube does. I need to compare further before giving a solid opinion. If there´s a difference I would probably replace the round metal piece with a semi opaque plexiglass or frosted glass.

Per

Logged

perbernal

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 76
Profoto Air
« Reply #13 on: May 26, 2009, 06:50:04 pm »

Quote from: James R Russell
I've had great luck with my compacts but I've only had them less than a year, though we've used and abused them around the world.

I don't know if they will hold up as well as 7's or acutes, but they're very easy to travel with.

The only issue has been an assistant flipped the 220 to 110 card the wrong way though with some fiddling it started working.

I've haven't tried the D-1 airs, but I don't understand the head design.  The beauty of all profotos is the original head design and standard reflector than can produce an amazingly beautiful effect.  

The Airs look like some kind of combination of part frensel, part diffused snoot and I don't know how this translates without a modifier,  but I'd be hard pressed to switch.

JR

I was very sceptic as well in the beginning but turned around after two shoots with these heads. I did a quick light tests with and without different reflectors and modifiers and you will be surprised how good it looks without anything on it. I do see a short coming if you are looking to lit or bounce light through a 12x12 silk etc. and it will take a little unconventional tricks to work around it. But at the end of the day you have to make a choice how complexed you want to make a light set-up and the idea behind  "less is more" goes a long way. I find it very liberating just to use one or two light and use the existing ambiance with the help of just one  assistance instead of configurations that is way more labor intense. It reminds me of how much more simple my shoots were in the beginning of my career and it´s fun to visit that place again:)

Per



Logged

pschefz

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 586
Profoto Air
« Reply #14 on: May 26, 2009, 07:19:41 pm »

bought the first 500 air kit available in LA and have since bought an additional head....
i have used hensel and broncolor monoheads and really like the compactness...but the D1 are the first to really get it right....the remote control is amazing....blows anything else out of the water....not sure why it does not have enough range for some, i have never liked PW for the simple reason that i don't want that huge thing on top of my camera....the air control is a fraction of the size AND controls it all.....
broncolor has had something similar for years but the remote alone is the price of a 500 air head (yes, that is what they are called).....
the 500air kit is an amazingly priced package...
i use umbrellas (not the profoto ones) all the time no slipping at all....but i do use a sock over them, so....
the spread is tight, which i happen to love....but profoto is offering different glass plates/globes which change the spread (also available 3200/5500K!)..i haven't tried any yet....all this stuff is brandnew and slowly showing up in stores....i can't wait  for the air remote/software USB stick....

again... a 3 head kit with remotes from broncolor would be close to 10000.- and less then 4000.- with profoto....

this is my first profoto kit, there was always somehting missing/not right for me.....this time, i am blown away....

recycle is amazing for monos, but power is quite a bit less then my hensel heads....not really a problem, i am shooting mostly at 1/8 or less the 1/2 power these days anyway....

the kit is nice, the bag is great, the umbrellas ok, the stands better then expected....

the remote is hard to understand until you play with one....then you are wondering how you could ever live without it....

afaik profoto will be offering a battery pack/solution later this year....until then the D1s work with the hensel/visit mpg or the dynalite...

i have never been so happy with a light kit.....did i mention how light and compact all this is? it is almost funny because the rest of the stuff (stands, boxes, modifiers,.....) seem to have put on weight in comparison:) makes you wish there were improvements like this with other gear as well....
Logged
schefz.com
artloch.com

nicholask

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 33
    • http://www.viewfinderdigitisation.com.au
Profoto Air
« Reply #15 on: May 27, 2009, 08:22:33 am »

I am tossing up whether to buy an Acute 2400m kit or the 1000 w/s D1 kit.  I am thinking that the new D1 units may have better flash and color temp consistency than the Acutes - can anyone confirm this based on their experience?

I am also thinking that the Acute packs must be ready for a rework by Profoto to bring them up to speed with the recent 'Air' developments.  The Air system looks great on paper, but I have not been able to check out the D1 units in the flesh as yet..

Snook

  • Guest
Profoto Air
« Reply #16 on: May 27, 2009, 09:33:09 am »

Quote from: pschefz
bought the first 500 air kit available in LA and have since bought an additional head....
i have used hensel and broncolor monoheads and really like the compactness...but the D1 are the first to really get it right....the remote control is amazing....blows anything else out of the water....not sure why it does not have enough range for some, i have never liked PW for the simple reason that i don't want that huge thing on top of my camera....the air control is a fraction of the size AND controls it all.....
broncolor has had something similar for years but the remote alone is the price of a 500 air head (yes, that is what they are called).....
the 500air kit is an amazingly priced package...
i use umbrellas (not the profoto ones) all the time no slipping at all....but i do use a sock over them, so....
the spread is tight, which i happen to love....but profoto is offering different glass plates/globes which change the spread (also available 3200/5500K!)..i haven't tried any yet....all this stuff is brandnew and slowly showing up in stores....i can't wait  for the air remote/software USB stick....

again... a 3 head kit with remotes from broncolor would be close to 10000.- and less then 4000.- with profoto....

this is my first profoto kit, there was always somehting missing/not right for me.....this time, i am blown away....

recycle is amazing for monos, but power is quite a bit less then my hensel heads....not really a problem, i am shooting mostly at 1/8 or less the 1/2 power these days anyway....

the kit is nice, the bag is great, the umbrellas ok, the stands better then expected....

the remote is hard to understand until you play with one....then you are wondering how you could ever live without it....

afaik profoto will be offering a battery pack/solution later this year....until then the D1s work with the hensel/visit mpg or the dynalite...

i have never been so happy with a light kit.....did i mention how light and compact all this is? it is almost funny because the rest of the stuff (stands, boxes, modifiers,.....) seem to have put on weight in comparison:) makes you wish there were improvements like this with other gear as well....


Can the new air compacts be used with a gas generator or is that still a no go?
Thnaks for all the information
Snook

Logged

geesbert

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 642
    • http://www.randlkofer.com
Profoto Air
« Reply #17 on: May 27, 2009, 03:31:54 pm »

As i have a bag full of pocketwizards (man, they were expensive!) and my d4 even has one build in, I want to keep on using them. now, is it possible to have a pocketwizard plugged into the d1 to trigger it and still use the air remote to change settings?
Logged
-------------------------
[url=http://ww

pschefz

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 586
Profoto Air
« Reply #18 on: May 27, 2009, 05:34:32 pm »

Quote from: geesbert
As i have a bag full of pocketwizards (man, they were expensive!) and my d4 even has one build in, I want to keep on using them. now, is it possible to have a pocketwizard plugged into the d1 to trigger it and still use the air remote to change settings?

yes....not sure why you would want to , since only the "air" heads function with the remote, so you are paying for the built in remote control and trigger....but there is no reason why you would not be able to use the PWs...or a sync cord....or have them triggered via built in slave....or have your D4 triggered via slave...

the best feature is that it is pretty easy to switch from controlling one head to controlling a group....so bumping all background lights up(or down) while keeping your key/fill or the other way around.....all this at a fraction of the size of the UGLY UGLY pw trigger...sorry, i just never understood who designed those and why they have to be so large and ugly.....the new ones aren't?!
Logged
schefz.com
artloch.com

thomasfxlt

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4
    • http://
Profoto Air
« Reply #19 on: August 31, 2009, 01:38:57 pm »

Had to resurrect this thread with a question about the D1. I'm considering selling my Compact 600's and getting a few of these. I use a Sekonic 758 with PW compatible wireless to pop my strobes while setting up. I realize the D1 has it's own system and it's not compatible with PW. Here's my question: If you get the special sync cable and plug a PW into the D1, will both the D1 air system and the PW system fire the strobes or is Air disabled when the PW is plugged in?

If they worked concurrently, you could fire and meter with the Sekonic and use the Air remote to set the lights.
Logged
Pages: [1] 2   Go Up