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Author Topic: Mounting options  (Read 5341 times)

PeterAit

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Mounting options
« on: May 10, 2009, 05:06:05 pm »

My local frame shop suggested acid-free foam core as an alternative to "archival" matte board for mounting my photos (the backing only, not the over-matte). Are there any problems with this?

Thanks,

Peter
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bill t.

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« Reply #1 on: May 10, 2009, 08:01:27 pm »

Can't say much about this except that archival foamcore is much less rigid that regular foam core.  From 20x24 on up it should probably have additional stiffening support, which kind of negates the reason for using foamcore to begin with.  If you really want to be squeeky clean archival, foamcore of any type is probably not on the list...because of having foam inside the frame.
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neile

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« Reply #2 on: May 10, 2009, 08:32:57 pm »

I always use foamcore for my framing, either one of two options:

1) Beinfang Acid-Free Foamboard (acid-free, buffered, etc. for most jobs)
2) Bainbridge Artcare Archival Foamboard (for my super fancy stuff)

Matboard is simply too expensive for me to use as the backing board, and unless you're using museum-grade matboard you've got buffered, acid-free, wood pulp product in there anyway.

Perhaps framah can chime in and tell us what he uses for his stuff.

Neil
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jjlphoto

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« Reply #3 on: May 10, 2009, 09:16:50 pm »

I use 3/16" acid free for backing with a 2ply acid free matt. Seems to stay quite flat within a frame. If I am carting around just matted prints to show, also seems to stay rigid enough.
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framah

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Mounting options
« Reply #4 on: May 11, 2009, 10:13:46 am »

Ok... here's what I use. I use the acid free foam core and I see no difference between regular and acid free as to rigidity. I have never noticed one being more or less rigid than the other. Using 3/16" instead of 1/8" might help in this matter.

As to whether to use AF foam core versus archival mat board, the general consensus is the proper (museum) way is to use a four ply rag mat to mount the print onto. Then you can either use the AF foam core behind that or you can use archival Coroplast (Google it) as the backer to stiffen the whole package.

Bainbridge has their Artcare AF foam core which has "Zeolites" in the foam to trap pollutants that are in the frame package, thus using their foam core is probably better than only using an archival mat behind the art.

For 90% of my work in here, I use the AF foam core.

Of course, the whole argument may be moot depending on HOW you mount your art. Stuff like duct tape or bandaids  or masking tape pretty much negate all that archival stuff!!  
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Alan Goldhammer

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« Reply #5 on: May 11, 2009, 12:45:14 pm »

I've done all my own mounting and framing for over 20 years.  The nice thing about inkjet prints is their flatness and that drymounting is not needed.  I use Strathmore Conservation board; the overmat is 4 ply and the print is mounted using mylar photo corners to 2 ply board.  It is backed by 1/8" Artcare Foamboard.  If it is a color print that is for sale I will use OP-3 Acrylite otherwise I use just plain acrylic.  The data I've seen indicate that color fading isn't an issue in the near term which is fine for personal pictures as I can always print a new one.  For B&W (Epson K3 inks) the data indicates that UV protective acrylic isn't necessary.  All the photos are in Nielsen frames and I've gone up to 10x16 prints in 16x20 frames without any problem at all.  Some have indicated that photo hinges are archival but that still means fixing something to the back of the print which photo corners do away with.
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bill t.

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« Reply #6 on: May 11, 2009, 07:27:11 pm »

Quote from: framah
I use the acid free foam core and I see no difference between regular and acid free as to rigidity.
What type are you using? I have a 48x96x3/16 piece of Bienfang Acid Free White that is so limp it can not be leaned up against the wall without bending enough to fall.  Versus regular old foamcore which stays up of its own accord with only a slight bend.  Wouldn't dream of using the acid-free for anything very big, at all.
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Tklimek

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« Reply #7 on: May 11, 2009, 11:18:35 pm »

Hi Bill....

Although I'm rather new to this, my foamboard is quite rigid.

I actually looked up my order from my email and here is what it said:
Antique White Acid-Free Foam Board, 3/16" Thick, 32" x 40" Sheet, Pkg. of 25

I can't imagine needing anything stiffer than this....I could make a square "house" out of this and put a 6 pack on top and not have a problem!  ;-)  But that's just me....    

Is it possible that different manufacturers have different rigidity???  Once again, I'm only a beginner....

Cheers....

Todd in Chicago

Quote from: bill t.
What type are you using? I have a 48x96x3/16 piece of Bienfang Acid Free White that is so limp it can not be leaned up against the wall without bending enough to fall.  Versus regular old foamcore which stays up of its own accord with only a slight bend.  Wouldn't dream of using the acid-free for anything very big, at all.
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framah

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« Reply #8 on: May 12, 2009, 10:44:33 am »

Bill, you never said anything about a 4x8 foot sheet of the stuff. Of course, it will bend somewhat at that  size.

 The usual size is 32x40 inch and the next size up is 40x60 and they both stand up quite nicely.

If you are working on sizes that require you to buy a 4x8 sheet, then, yes it is not the right material for the job. I suggest you buy gatorboard and then cover it with a rag mat to isolate it from the art.

Gatorboard has a rigid skin but isn't anywhere near acid free.
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framah

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« Reply #9 on: May 12, 2009, 10:49:47 am »

By the way, Bienfang is the lesser quality foam core available. Since it was bought out by Elmers, you know,  Elmers Glue... the quality has been "lessened" considerably.

Stick with Bainbridge.

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enduser

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« Reply #10 on: May 13, 2009, 02:56:23 am »


Look Here for "Archival" and other foam choices.   http://www.alcancompositesusa.com/prod_fom..._acid_free.html
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