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Author Topic: Black/White with MFDB  (Read 10790 times)

Dick Roadnight

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« Reply #20 on: May 05, 2009, 04:46:32 pm »

Quote from: dougpetersonci
Any idea where I could get a micrometer accurate enough for this? The best I know of is RRS's B150-B Macro Focusing Rail. I have not purchased this but I don't think it would be enough. 1 revolution is 1.25mm, so I would need to rotate less than 30 degrees per picture in a reliable way.

Maybe someone who has used this system could comment. Maybe I could have them replace the handle with a larger one to allow easier micro movements?
With Micrometers the other jaw might get in the way, or the moving jaw might rotate.... so try a micro linear actuator:

http://www.zaber.com/products/product_grou...CFctL5QodSVko8w
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EricWHiss

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« Reply #21 on: May 05, 2009, 06:26:31 pm »

Doug,
You need to look into optical positioning mounts for scientific use - most of these have linear micrometers which will allow for the kind of positioning accuracy that you need.  The cost of this stuff is probably cheaper than that which is destined for photographic use - at least in my experience and you can find lots of this stuff as surplus.  

Eric
« Last Edit: May 05, 2009, 06:29:22 pm by EricWHiss »
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Doug Peterson

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« Reply #22 on: May 05, 2009, 07:01:50 pm »

Quote from: Dick Roadnight
With Micrometers the other jaw might get in the way, or the moving jaw might rotate.... so try a micro linear actuator:

http://www.zaber.com/products/product_grou...CFctL5QodSVko8w


Quote from: EricWHiss
Doug,
You need to look into optical positioning mounts for scientific use - most of these have linear micrometers which will allow for the kind of positioning accuracy that you need.  The cost of this stuff is probably cheaper than that which is destined for photographic use - at least in my experience and you can find lots of this stuff as surplus.  

Eric

Dick and Eric: Thanks so much for pointing me in the right direction. Like many things on the internet once I had the right keywords and jargon I was able to find precisely what I needed. I'll be looking at a T-LS28-I. Talking to the Zaber engineers I think this is a bit of overkill for 5-10X, but opens up the possibility of shooting even higher magnifications.

Honestly, this is one of those situations that makes you love forums.

Doug

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EricWHiss

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« Reply #23 on: May 05, 2009, 07:49:42 pm »

Don't know how heavy your set up is, but you might also be able to move the bug and get satisfactory results.  Some of these positioners will work with big loads

http://cgi.ebay.com/Melles-Griot-65mm-x-65...p3286.m20.l1116
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Snook

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Black/White with MFDB
« Reply #24 on: May 05, 2009, 09:03:47 pm »

Another great B&W conversion program is Nik Silver effects Pro another winner uo there with Kodak Exposure.
Snook
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Dick Roadnight

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« Reply #25 on: May 06, 2009, 01:55:32 am »

Doug and Eric
Quote from: EricWHiss
Don't know how heavy your set up is, but you might also be able to move the bug and get satisfactory results.  Some of these positioners will work with big loads
I am a design, test and development, agricultural, electronic and software engineer, and once contemplated a career in the robotics industry. I am now setting myself up as a photographic solutions provider, specializing in "anything you cannot do with a DSLR".

When the subject is smaller than the camera, move the subject... and this avoids false perspective through changing the magnification

You do not even need a good tripod, as you can use a Sinar monorail system as an optical bench: you can mount a small subject like a slide copier attachment on a spare rear standard.

There are countless cheap and simple ways of producing the small movements you want, and a simple G-clamp type digital or mechanical micrometer (with the spare jaw cut off), would let you produce and measure the movements.

If you want smaller movements, you can use an epicyclic reduction gear box (or clock mechanism) to drive the micrometer or Sinar focusing knob.

You can use a standard mechanism that produces very slow movements, and control the focus slice size with a timer: a grandfather (long case) clock weight moves about a meter in about eight days - this would be slow enough for most applications!

A ratchet system (or clock escapement mechanism) might help, or a Weston differential pulley system could produce the required high velocity ratio, small movements.


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terence_patrick

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« Reply #26 on: May 07, 2009, 01:42:50 pm »

[attachment=13532:492909236_hc8sb_XL.jpg]

I'm quite happy with BW conversion in C1 4.7.
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Doug Peterson

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« Reply #27 on: May 07, 2009, 02:40:14 pm »

Quote from: terence_patrick
[attachment=13532:492909236_hc8sb_XL.jpg]

I'm quite happy with BW conversion in C1 4.7.

Are you
1) Desaturating?
2) Using one of the default B+W profiles (e.g. Yellow Filter or Panchromatic)
3) Creating your own B+W profile with Color Editor?


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Kurt Kamka

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« Reply #28 on: May 07, 2009, 04:04:22 pm »

Here are several simple walking around shots outdoors with a MFDB that I converted to black & white with the Nik software Snook mentioned.

Kurt
« Last Edit: May 07, 2009, 04:06:25 pm by Kurt Kamka »
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Kurt Kamka

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« Reply #29 on: May 07, 2009, 04:07:18 pm »

One more ...
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klane

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« Reply #30 on: May 07, 2009, 04:15:50 pm »

Kurt that second one is great, I donwloaded a demo of the nik software and I wasnt impressed compared to what could already be done in photoshop... but that looks better than the results i was getting.
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terence_patrick

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« Reply #31 on: May 07, 2009, 08:32:29 pm »

Quote from: dougpetersonci
Are you
1) Desaturating?
2) Using one of the default B+W profiles (e.g. Yellow Filter or Panchromatic)
3) Creating your own B+W profile with Color Editor?

I start off with the Panchromatic profile, then make quick adjustments to white balance and saturation, depending on lighting or colors in the image.
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ThierryH

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« Reply #32 on: May 07, 2009, 08:58:11 pm »

I like the "Recovery", in the highlights! Well done.

Best regards,
Thierry

Quote from: Kurt Kamka
One more ...
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Geoffrey

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« Reply #33 on: May 07, 2009, 10:54:04 pm »

bannister shot is scanned film, little PP, prior to dust clean up (sorry!)

Other was M8, CV 15, in camera file, mild PP.

Do you really need the aftermarket plug ins?
« Last Edit: May 07, 2009, 11:08:13 pm by Geoffrey »
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Geoffrey

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« Reply #34 on: May 08, 2009, 05:20:00 am »

two shots from Phase 20, PS to BW. A bit dry, but to show smooth transition of MFDB.
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