Since we're talking about pretty expensive equipment here, so as not to mislead anybody it should be noted that there are some issues regarding choppers (like Morso etc) versus high end double mitre saws (like Pistorius etc).
Choppers have a hard time with mouldings that are more than about 3" wide. And for reverse mouldings that are highest near the lip, that number will be smaller.
Choppers will almost almost always create chips on the sides of moulding if the sides are even slightly scooped out or curved. Mouldings where the side is tall and curvy might not be possible to chop at all, since the moulding will roll when you try to cut it.
Sometimes decorative compo mouldings will fracture and crack, and if the blades have dulled somewhat they may cause chipping on smooth painted mouldings.
Choppers can be a PITA on dense, thick hardwoods which also greatly reduce blade life.
Changing chopper blades is scary. You should be super attentive and completely undistracted when using a chopper. Sooner or later you may hurt yourself, those huge knife blades are razor sharp, just brushing against them can cut you. If you are lucky your first cut will be minor and you will be forever warned...but there are less pleasant possibilities. If you don't remove the two Plexiglas protection sheets choppers offer reasonable finger protection, but even so newbies are too easily tempted to get their fingers way too close to those blades, especially when pushing the moulding through or cleaning up debris or adjusting the rabbet supports.
Choppers create beautiful, accurate cuts in most mouldings. They make very little noise, take up minimal space, and create virtually no airborne dust.
Those of us blessed with the Wisdom that comes with Age may find our chopping knees a little weary now and then.
Almost anybody can repair a chopper.
The cost of installing a chopper in your shop is very low.
Choppers are by far the best way to cut linen liners where the linen is pre-applied to the backing. Many framers keep a chopper around only to cut liners and fillets.
Bottom line, for the type of moudings they can handle choppers are great. When I only had a chopper I only used mouldings I knew it could cut well, and I was completely content.
OTOH...
Saws can cut almost any moulding, including very large mouldings and mouldings with scooped out areas on the side. A 12" Pistorious maxes out at about 4.5".
The industrial saws offer pretty good bodily protection systems.
Dull saw blades will chip delicate mouldings on all surfaces. But a pair of really good blades will last a really long time.
Saws make a lot of noise and create enormous plagues of dust...you need a very high quality dust control system if you want to have a saw anywhere near your framing area, and even then you will still have a minor dust problem.
A really good double mitre saw needs 220 volts 3-phase to run its two big motors (1-phase types don't have as much power). Most types need shop air. This along with dust removal puts the cost of installing a good double mitre saw in your shop as high as a few thousand dollars (beyond the cost of the saw). You need to give it about 80 to 150 square feet of your space. If you install a big saw, you had better have a business plan that includes its heavy use.
But in the end saws are very fast, it's ca-chung and you're done, you gotta love it.
Sorry to have drifted so far OT from the Makita thing. Maybe what all the above is really saying is...if you can make that Makita work (as so many have) then go for it because the next step up is a big one. Or maybe it's saying your local framer is a better idea than you first thought unless you're doing high volume framing.
Oh, there is one minor step up from the Makita (etc) chop saw, which is to have a manual framer's sander which can (usually) true-up or at least improve sloppy miter cuts out of the saw.
