D3X Print Size?

[Jimlizard]

I find that an extra point of in-camera sharpening is exactly what one needs to print from the Jpeg. No reason to use the Raw.

Edmund

Maybe not for you, but there are a lot of reasons to use RAW, in every model that allows to use it.
RAW can give some much more control, that i think i never shot more than 10 or 20 jpegs in my last camera.

[eronald]

Maybe not for you, but there are a lot of reasons to use RAW, in every model that allows to use it.
RAW can give some much more control, that i think i never shot more than 10 or 20 jpegs in my last camera.

I was using Raw exclusively on the cameras which I had bought before the D3x -Canon 1Ds, 1DsII, Mamiya, Leica M8. In fact I even made and sold C1 profiles for some of these. So I'm well aware of what Raw can do; however I find that the excellent Jpegs which come out of the D3x with the active Dlight are so good that it's more fun to concentrate on retouching the converted file rather than the Raw.

It's a bit like shooting slides again. When I've had more experience with the camera, I'm sure I'll be doing more in Raw again.

Edmund

[Jimlizard]

I was using Raw exclusively on the cameras which I had bought before the D3x -Canon 1Ds, 1DsII, Mamiya, Leica M8. In fact I even made and sold C1 profiles for some of these. So I'm well aware of what Raw can do; however I find that the excellent Jpegs which come out of the D3x with the active Dlight are so good that it's more fun to concentrate on retouching the converted file rather than the Raw.

It's a bit like shooting slides again. When I've had more experience with the camera, I'm sure I'll be doing more in Raw again.

Edmund

I see...
But even if the jpeg files are very sharp and colour reproduction great, don't you notice an advantage in the dynamic range shooting RAW? In most cameras I've tried, it's always possible to get that extra bit of information in the highlights.
There is also an advantage to achieve an accurate white balance.

Anyway, if the D3X is that great producing jpeg - and i'm not doubting it is - if you shoot essentially in optimal conditions, great for you. Less space and less work.

[shelby_lewis]

I was using Raw exclusively on the cameras which I had bought before the D3x -Canon 1Ds, 1DsII, Mamiya, Leica M8. In fact I even made and sold C1 profiles for some of these. So I'm well aware of what Raw can do; however I find that the excellent Jpegs which come out of the D3x with the active Dlight are so good that it's more fun to concentrate on retouching the converted file rather than the Raw.

It's a bit like shooting slides again. When I've had more experience with the camera, I'm sure I'll be doing more in Raw again.

Edmund

I'm glad to here this... I've been contemplating a move to mf digital but the d3x still will not leave the back of my mind. Not sure I'll shoot jpeg, but it's good to hear someone with your color expertise speaking highly of the d3x. I've always disliked the out-of-the-box color of nikon (just personally) but this cam is looking really compelling. A do-all cam of sorts.

[eronald]

I'm glad to here this... I've been contemplating a move to mf digital but the d3x still will not leave the back of my mind. Not sure I'll shoot jpeg, but it's good to hear someone with your color expertise speaking highly of the d3x. I've always disliked the out-of-the-box color of nikon (just personally) but this cam is looking really compelling. A do-all cam of sorts.

The problem with the Nikon color is that hues change with luminance! This has been skewed, I guess, so that caucasians skin has magenta removed, as US citizens hate magenta, etc.

However, the DR in the Jpegs is pretty good when you use active Dlighting, as the exposure is modded to protect higlights, and shadows are then lifted. So in effect more DR is compressed into the Jpegs. Who am I to complain?

Edmund

[Dan Wells]

My workflow, which makes great 24x36 inch landscapes from D3x files printing to the Canon iPF 6100, is as follows (it's clearly related to a lot of what other folks are doing):

Convert in Capture One - sharpening on (C1's default is pretty darned good for capture sharpening from the D3x). I try to get basic exposure and white balance (including any curves adjustment I want) right in C1, leaving as little global adjustment as possible for Photoshop (all that I do globally in Photoshop is apply any custom filters I want, such as PhotoKit Color). I don't resize at all in C1, and I output a 16 bit TIFF in ProPhoto RGB.

Adjust anything needed in Photoshop CS4 - filters C1 can't handle, local adjustments that need sophisticated layers, etc...

Resize to output size using Genuine Fractals 6.0. I actually go all the way to print size at 600 dpi (the Canon plugin is 600 dpi native, which I have confirmed multiple times) - there is a small but noticeable improvement by doing this over resizing to 300 dpi and letting the Canon driver handle the final resize to 600 dpi. Beware the 1.67 GB file!

Output sharpening with PhotoKit Sharpener Inkjet 480 glossy fine (I know it should be 600, but that doesn't exist)

Print through the Canon 16-bit plugin - iPF6100 on Hahnemuhle PhotoRag Baryta.

If the D3x has limits, I haven't found them yet - this workflow produces ridiculously nice high-detail landscapes up to 24 inches on the short side (I don't have room for a larger printer :-) ).

                            -Dan