I found it hard to use wide open (but I think trying will improve my technical abilities) but I thought by f4 it was lovely, very sharp indeed.
Note that the stock focusing screen shows far more depth of field than you actually get wide open. (That is, things that appear sharp through the viewfinder often are not. This especially applies to backgrounds, but it also applies to critical focusing wide open.)
You might lock down the camera on a tripod and test this. Focus on a close subject, shoot a frame wide open, display it on the LCD screen, then look back and forth at the screen and through the viewfinder and check the apparent DOF (through the finder) and the real DOF (in the actual shot.) Note any differences.
Canon sells a focusing screen that does a better job showing what's actually in focus, but it's much darker and it's difficult to use with slower lenses. I have one of these on my long lens camera, and it works well with a fast 85, but it's dark on a 70-200/2.8 and almost unusable on my 300/4. (But it does show a better view of the actual DOF wide open.)
Again, this applies when focusing the camera too. I often see someone's eye in focus, but find that it's just a little off when processing the file. Manual focus is almost totally useless -- how can I trust manual focus when the focusing screen shows a sharp subject even when it's not sharp? Making sure that my lenses are calibrated with my bodies so the AF works properly is the key to fixing this. Also, shooting a lot of frames helps.
Note that all this applies when shooting at f/1.8 (or f/1.2, 1.4, even f/2). Once you stop down to f/4, you get enough leeway in focus that it's no longer an issue. Also, around f/4 is when the apparent DOF and actual DOF merge, depending on the lens, and subject distance.
Hope you enjoy the lens. It's quite a nice and useful focal length, both on full frame and crop frame cameras.