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Author Topic: gallery warp need help  (Read 3493 times)

jnaviles

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gallery warp need help
« on: February 12, 2009, 07:14:12 pm »

Hi guys I'm new to the forum so please excuse the newbie q's. I have a ipf6100 and printed out a photo on fredrix 901wr. I let it dry for 48hrs. My problem is when I applied the type-c it left streaks like it has not yet dried. It's been about three days already. I saw the video on there site, I even went out and bought the same roller they used. Here is a photo showing what I'm trying to say. Is there a better way to apply the type-c. The spry gun is not an option.

( I cracked the corner I guess I stretched it to hard)
« Last Edit: February 12, 2009, 07:15:47 pm by jnaviles »
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bill t.

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gallery warp need help
« Reply #1 on: February 12, 2009, 08:09:57 pm »

Hard to tell, but it basically looks like your roller dried out a bit towards the right hand side, then you finished the extreme right with a wetter roller.

How many coats?  Usually if you go for a second or third coat all that stuff goes away.  In any case you need to get it down pretty quickly.  Usually the first pass should be rather wet, then right away go over the canvas again at 90 degrees to first pass with very little pressure on the roller, and go back and sort of level things out with a fairly dryroller and only the weight of the roller.  Two coats like that is enough.  The canvas should lay flat between coats.  Wait a day between coats if you can, but 2 hours may be enough in dry weather.

Yes, the HVLP guns work very well but take some experience to use properly.  You also need some sort of indoor spray booth or at least a dedicated room for spraying.  The area must be ventilated to the outside or else you will accumulate excessive air born mist.  The Wagner Control Spray gun will do the job, but it has a few quirks and a few booby traps.  The high end, REALLY high volume sprayers like Fuji Q4 work better and are a good choice if you are doing any sort of volume, or if you want to coat smooth print surfaces.  But rolling on the water based coatings really works almost as well.  Provided you are using a water resistant canvas, of course.

Don't despair if this is your first canvas.  It takes a few tries to get technique sorted out.

Clearshield stays tacky a little longer than some of the other coatings.  On the flip side I feel it applies a little more evenly.  The tack is not very high, and after three days it goes away entirely (in my dry, high desert experience).

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nihil

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gallery warp need help
« Reply #2 on: February 12, 2009, 08:10:39 pm »

You should probably use more varnish. At least that is the solution in regards to the Breathing Color varnish. The more the better, in my opinion. See this page. Yes, very very much. Looks terrific in the end, but dries slowly.

A second coat would take care of your problem. Though irregularities/imperfections are nice to some extent if you ask me.
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Erlend Mørk
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Dward

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gallery warp need help
« Reply #3 on: February 12, 2009, 08:30:56 pm »

Quote from: jnaviles
Hi guys I'm new to the forum so please excuse the newbie q's. I have a ipf6100 and printed out a photo on fredrix 901wr. I let it dry for 48hrs. My problem is when I applied the type-c it left streaks like it has not yet dried. It's been about three days already. I saw the video on there site, I even went out and bought the same roller they used. Here is a photo showing what I'm trying to say. Is there a better way to apply the type-c. The spry gun is not an option.

( I cracked the corner I guess I stretched it to hard)



Hi,

Yep, a familiar difficulty.  Though I now spray the ClearShield Type C, for several years I used rollers, and would occasionally have this problem (with canvasses done on a z3100).  Hints I found useful:   1.  Make sure the roller is fully saturated before you begin using it on the canvas.  2.  Use the minimum pressure necessary to spread the product.   3.  Do not repeatedly go over and over areas---I usually rolled once at moderate pressure, and then one last roll using only the weight of the roller itself to smooth any ridges.  4.  Roll in high humidity to slow down drying time (often difficult to achieve indoors in the winter, I know, but it seem to help--the additional drying time allows the flatteners in the product to work).  5.  If you continue to have the problem, you can thin the ClearShield with warm water (I don't add more than about 5%, but it can make a significant difference, especially in low humidity).

It looks to me that you might have applied too much product in the right/middle of the canvas, which has left a milky appearance.  If so, just letting it sit for a bit longer may reduce milkiness.   Or, in some cases when I was terminally frustrated, I'd add another coat (a thinner coat) and that would sometimes cure any streaks and residual milkiness.  

One more suggestion:  There are a couple of ways to do the corners (90 or 45 degrees on the staple side).  I usually wrap the sides flat and put the canvas tucks at 45 degrees  on the top and bottom where they are less visible  than if I put them on the sides.  Personal preference, I suppose, but I thought I'd mention it

It's truly a pain to get the rolling  right----which is why I switched to the Wagner HVLP gun.  Inexpensive and works well.  I'm sorry it isn't an option for you.  

That's an impressive image, btw!  Nice work.  And good luck with the rolling.

David V. Ward, Ph. D.
www.dvward.com
David V. Ward Fine Art Photography
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jnaviles

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« Reply #4 on: February 12, 2009, 08:49:38 pm »

Thanks a lot for the replies guys. I have another print ready for rolling. This time I'll make sure that the roller is always saturated . I wish I could use a HVLP gun but I live in an apartment, no spare rooms for me. My next warp I'll do the corners like Dward mentioned.  I'll post a photo tomorrow on how the second one turns out. Again thanks a lot for the advice.


P.S Thanks Dward for the compliment.
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Ken Doo

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gallery warp need help
« Reply #5 on: February 12, 2009, 09:25:48 pm »

Quote from: nihil
You should probably use more varnish. At least that is the solution in regards to the Breathing Color varnish. The more the better, in my opinion. See this page. Yes, very very much. Looks terrific in the end, but dries slowly.

A second coat would take care of your problem. Though irregularities/imperfections are nice to some extent if you ask me.



Pretty cool "time-lapse" example of the varnish on canvas....  

I used to roll with BC's Glamour II---no more----HVLP is so much easier!

jnaviles

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gallery warp need help
« Reply #6 on: February 13, 2009, 11:41:36 am »

It came out good. I made sure that the roller was nice and saturated. I just have to work on the the corners.  
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David Duchesne

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gallery warp need help
« Reply #7 on: February 15, 2009, 06:48:37 am »

Quote from: jnaviles
It came out good. I made sure that the roller was nice and saturated. I just have to work on the the corners.  

Gallery wrap method,
Why not use a spray aerosol can?  I use  lyson printguard product from calumet.  Never a problem- sprays evenly- 2 coats.  I can't imagine using a roller because of unevenness- roller would have to be discarded after each use I imagine.  I allow my canvas to dry for 1-2 days before stretching- then spraying. Epson 9880 output.  More costly but much less technical problems.
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Craig Murphy

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gallery warp need help
« Reply #8 on: July 28, 2009, 01:49:41 pm »

Kind of an old thread but you that are spraying.  Are you doing that before or after stretching?
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CMurph

Mulis Pictus

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gallery warp need help
« Reply #9 on: July 28, 2009, 02:38:14 pm »

Quote from: Craig Murphy
Kind of an old thread but you that are spraying.  Are you doing that before or after stretching?
I do it before. It also protects the canvas during the stretching and minimizes the risk of breaking the coating in corners and on edges.

I only spray it afterwards if I want to change the glossiness of the surface, and that is only thin layer on top of already sprayed and stretched canvas.

BobDavid

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gallery warp need help
« Reply #10 on: July 28, 2009, 08:24:54 pm »

I've had the best success rolling on the lacquer-based Clear Shield product. I can't remember the exact product name. It is a stinky, toxic, solvent-based coating. I roll it on with valour rollers, which are expensive. The end result is always great -- no streaking. It only requires one application and it really makes the image look "richer" than any acrylic-based topcoat. I charge my customers a premium for this service.
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