Topic: Lighting, Best way to achieve this effect (Read 13160 times)

Snook · « **on:** January 30, 2009, 04:15:40 pm »

Hey guys was wondering if you all could give me some suggestions about achieving this look the best way possible.
Lighting wise that is:
[attachment=11266:Picture_1.jpg]
Plan on shooting in studio and need to similate the window also.
I figure and HMI spot like would be best but what would be the best way to similate this with flash if possible. If you notice it has no round fresnel type fall off on the images.
Thanks for any suggestions.
Snook
Curios about distant of light to branches and window frame...

Thanks

PS. Not interested in copying the image. Just wonder about shadow effect.

lisa_r · « **Reply #1 on:** January 30, 2009, 06:19:23 pm »

I'm not sure you should be copying other photographers images into the forum like that...

Snook · « **Reply #2 on:** January 30, 2009, 06:59:40 pm »

Quote from: lisa_r

I'm not sure you should be copying other photographers images into the forum like that...

Well maybe you should be sure before you comment..:+}

What are you the forum Police?

It has the Logo where it came from if you open your eyes..:+]

Snook

rcdurston · « **Reply #3 on:** January 30, 2009, 07:13:04 pm »

I don't think anyone is going to come after you because you simulated another's shadows. Get over it people; just because someone puts up some reference doesn't mean they are going to copy it verbatim. Any pro should know that, no disrespect intended.
If you are meaning just the fact that he referenced the image into the forum itself, well he could have just cropped it to include the shadows only but then those who know, probably wouldn't respond to such a cropped image.
Again, no disrespect

peace out
r

Colorado David · « **Reply #4 on:** January 30, 2009, 09:31:15 pm »

You can achieve this effect using a Source 4 Ellipsoidal Quartz instrument. The Source 4 instrument will have a slot to insert a pattern, sometimes called a cookie. The patterns are made from a thin metal and you can either purchase stock patterns like tree branches and window frames or you can cut your own. The Source 4 is a focusing instrument so you can adjust how sharp or soft you want your pattern. You can probably rent one from a theatrical service supplier.

happyman · « **Reply #5 on:** January 30, 2009, 10:56:07 pm »

Try to use the bare flash tube without any reflector. The trick is not to point the lamp to target the way you would do with a reflector. You have to experiement a bit. With my Broncolor heads it is 90 deg of horizontal axis. This achieves the sun light effect. In theory the light has to come from one point only. So look at what position your bare tube comes closest to this point light.

Hope it helps

happyman

DavidP · « **Reply #6 on:** January 30, 2009, 11:59:33 pm »

It looks like an open head with a reflector to me from the double shadows. Either a bare head or some kind of fresnel with a strobe could work too, like a Broncolor Flooter type light
If you get the light far enough back and use a open frame scrim to even it a little where the set is closer to the light, you can keep the light from falling off too much and make it more natural looking.

dwdallam · « **Reply #7 on:** January 31, 2009, 01:53:19 am »

It doesn't really matter what light you use, but you should already understand if you want an edgy look you shoot with a smaller light. You want a softer look, you shoot with a bigger light source. This is really quite easy.

Get your self a scrim--build it, buy it, find it--our of wahtever material yuo want. Since it is going between the light and subject, you can make it out of cardboard for ease.

Put the light behind it.

Adjust the light and or scrim up or down to get the angle you want and the right width for your fake frame reflection.

Lighting: Just play with it. Use an umbrella and move it and the scrim you made closer or further away for a softer or harder edged look. Yo don't need any fancy this or that. If you want to concentrate the light going through your "window" wrap some cine foil around the reflector to form a large opening snoot to throw the light in a tighter circle. This means you would be shooting bare bulb, w/o any light modifier, less the stock reflector.

After you get that set up, set you main light as you want it, then reset the fake shadow to an intensity you want for the shadow effect.

There is no way to know the exact distance of the fake window sill you will make or the fake branches either. Just move them around and you'll get it fairly quickly, like about 5 shots using flash.

Flash-->fake branches-->fake window frame-->subject

Just move them around until you get the effect you want.

Am I missing your point?

lisa_r · « **Reply #8 on:** January 31, 2009, 10:16:12 am »

No offense Snook, but maybe you missed the notification at the bottom of the opening page on Jedroot:

http://jedroot.com/

http://jedroot.com/images-artwork/index-page/copyright.gif

I am only mentioning this because I have found my images copied to forums, other photographers sites, etc. and it is not that pleasant. I think if we as photographers want to be compensated for our work (as opposed to having our work stolen off of the web, scanned out of magazines, etc.) then we should respect each others work as well. You could very easily post a link to that photo instead of copying and uploading to random forums, white the photographer is unaware.

p.s. Durston, I am not referring to the act of duplicating someone's lighting, I am talking about the uploading of someone's copyrighted images to forums instead of linking to that image. It's illegal, and a little rude in my humble opinion.

Snook, are you cool with people taking images off of your site, posting them in forums, and discussing them however they see fit? Would Michael be cool with that nice image of blue ice on his front page today being copied onto other websites sans permission? I know it happens, but I think pros should know better, and should respect one another's work and one another's copyrights. If we don't, who will??

canmiya · « **Reply #9 on:** January 31, 2009, 01:30:50 pm »

Quote from: lisa_r

No offense Snook, but maybe you missed the notification at the bottom of the opening page on Jedroot:

http://jedroot.com/

http://jedroot.com/images-artwork/index-page/copyright.gif

I am only mentioning this because I have found my images copied to forums, other photographers sites, etc. and it is not that pleasant. I think if we as photographers want to be compensated for our work (as opposed to having our work stolen off of the web, scanned out of magazines, etc.) then we should respect each others work as well. You could very easily post a link to that photo instead of copying and uploading to random forums, white the photographer is unaware.

p.s. Durston, I am not referring to the act of duplicating someone's lighting, I am talking about the uploading of someone's copyrighted images to forums instead of linking to that image. It's illegal, and a little rude in my humble opinion.

Snook, are you cool with people taking images off of your site, posting them in forums, and discussing them however they see fit? Would Michael be cool with that nice image of blue ice on his front page today being copied onto other websites sans permission? I know it happens, but I think pros should know better, and should respect one another's work and one another's copyrights. If we don't, who will??

+1...to link is much more appropriate....hope no one is offended...

Hank · « **Reply #10 on:** January 31, 2009, 02:08:01 pm »

An important consideration in achieving the effect you want is the "sharpness" of the shadows. That's going to depend on size, distance from light, and distance from subject. If you want it soft, close to the light will be fine. But if you want it sharp like a real window, you're probably facing a large frame closer to the subject and a point-source light some distance behind the frame.

It's all adjustable, but within the constraints of shooting distances in your studio. I'm betting 20 feet won't be too much by any means. We've got 30' in our larger shooting room, and it's often confining.

Chris Gahran · « **Reply #11 on:** January 31, 2009, 04:31:51 pm »

Snook,

The size of the light pattern makes me wonder if it isn't sunlight through a window and tree. However the blurring of the pattern, the left-right repeat of the center shadow, looks like a projection attachment was used and it was slightly defocused.

To recreate this in a studio you need a projection device such as a Source 4 for continuous light or a Spot Projection Attachment for electronic flash. Then go to GAM to obtain the patterns which are inserted into the projection attachment using a pattern holder.

Chris Gahran

Colorado David · « **Reply #12 on:** January 31, 2009, 09:49:12 pm »

Another vote for the Source 4.

Snook · « **Reply #13 on:** January 31, 2009, 10:11:06 pm »

Thanks guys for all the good ideas.
LisaR I would be flattered if people discuss my lighting. That shot was published in a magazine anyways. Also as stated I am wondering about shadow distance in a small studio.
I will be doing a similar shoot with out model and actually nothing like that image apart from the shadows really.
Also, I am not trying to copy anybody's work. Never have and never will need to hopefully.
The Link is a good idea that I did not think of and will try to fix if anybody is offended.
I am not stealing the images in anyway. If anything more publicity for the shooter. which it is all about...:+}

Anyways it does not look like it was real light and window to me but after post you nerv know these days.

My idea was a fake window scrimmed up close for sharper shadows and the branches further (from subject/closer to light source) to be softer and the main light as small and far back as possible.? Maybe just a bare bulb angle upward.

In any case thanks for all the suggestions and keep them coming..:+}

Snook

Kirk Gittings · « **Reply #14 on:** January 31, 2009, 11:00:37 pm »

"Anyways it does not look like it was real light and window to me but after post you nerv know these days."

It looks like natural light to me otherwise there would be divergence of the light rays coming from a single light source close to the setup. To avoid obvious divergence to ant extent the light source would have to be like 50 yards away. That is why artificial splashes of sunlight in architectural interiors stick out like a sore thumb. Real sunlight does not have diverging lines.

dwdallam · « **Reply #15 on:** February 01, 2009, 01:45:03 am »

Just cut a scrim out of cardboard man and save yourself the money. If you need lots of control over the light that makes the pattern, use barn doors. It is sooooo incredibly easy to do yourself with a utility knife and cardboard.

Dansk · « **Reply #16 on:** February 01, 2009, 02:50:37 am »

Looks to me like the light is about 40' or better away from the "frame" and branch diffusion and I'd guess the spill distance from the diffusion to the model and couch is about 15-20' if I had to guess which is what I am doing. I'd also guess at 4800ws with a cone and no modifier.

Saying that obviously I vote that its artificial lighting AND an artificial window frame tree branch effect just by the scale of it the frame shadow-light effect seems unnatural and I spent years working in the movie biz so I got used to seeing this kind of stuff.

Of course I could be just piss drunk and have a totally unfounded opinion but I suppose that I'd not judge myself too harshly either seeing as GSP just took out BJ in proper fashion and its late. Get sum

Then again I might be right. Sooner or later if I keep guessing I'm sure I'll hit one of those nails on the head

Morgan_Moore · « **Reply #17 on:** February 01, 2009, 04:26:17 am »

You need a lens in front of your light to focus the beam

Fresnel spot + gobo ?

Ive got sort of similar with an old nikkor taped into the snoot of my elly - but light loss was horrible

or have the light source miles away - you are trying to replicate a light source that is millions of miles away

s

terence_patrick · « **Reply #18 on:** February 01, 2009, 05:39:57 am »

Try the Profoto Fresnel Spot with some big branches you find on the ground. Depending on the depth/size of the branches, you should get fairly close to that effect. You could cut the window frame out of foamcore and hang it by fishing wire from a boom arm. Make sure to tie the frame down so it doesn't move in case you use wind or need the composition exact in each shot.

denoise · « **Reply #19 on:** February 01, 2009, 08:28:49 pm »

what about:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1853...r_for_Size.html

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/4426...tern_Maker.html

looks like a cheap alternative.

Author Topic: Lighting, Best way to achieve this effect (Read 13160 times)

Snook

lisa_r

Snook

lisa_r

Snook