Signing Prints

[SecondFocus]

I have become a big fan of FineArt Baryta 325gsm for my photography, print sales and now gallery exhibits. Could anyone recommend a pencil type that is suitable for signing my prints?

Thank you for your consideration.

[Ernst Dinkla]

I have become a big fan of FineArt Baryta 325gsm for my photography, print sales and now gallery exhibits. Could anyone recommend a pencil type that is suitable for signing my prints?

Thank you for your consideration.

A drawing pen with a wider nib (say 0.5 mm) and filled with an inkjet ink of your choice, middle gray from an "empty" cart ?

I use a smaller one from time to time to retouch prints. Staedtler Marsmatic. Never a clog. But the small nib will scratch the surface, a wider one will not.


Ernst Dinkla

Try: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Wide_Inkjet_Printers/

[rdonson]

I've had good luck with the Sakura Pigma Micron Pens - they're archival inks and acid-free.

[bill t.]

Yes the Micron pens will even sign on RC papers.  Any art supply has them.  The "03" size is about right for signatures, "05" if you're feeling bold.  The "01" and "005" sizes are great for spotting RC as well, so far the only good option I have found for that.  Be sure to prime them on some clean paper to get the flow going before you sign, just draw some tight circles to make a sort of tiny puddle, this will also clear any paper debris you may have picked up from the previous use.  Sure hope they don't run or fade, I just recently signed about 30 big Premium Luster prints that way.

[blansky]

You may want to consider a different approach and sign your name a few times on a piece of white paper, scan it into photoshop and convert the signature into a brush.

Then whenever you are ready to print, you add a layer with the signature at any size you wish and any color you wish. With a few signatures to choose from you won't have "perfect" signatures when making a number of prints but can vary them.

Just an idea.

Michael

[whawn]

You may want to consider a different approach and sign your name a few times on a piece of white paper, scan it into photoshop and convert the signature into a brush.

I'm not sure that's a good idea, necessarily.  One of the purposes for signing a work is to indicate authenticity, that the artist actually had something to do with the making of the print, so an actual signature, rather than a facsimile, would seem to be better.  

I wonder what the effect might be if the photographer used the approach of many painters who make prints:  One signature on the original work, reproduced in the print, then hand-sign another signature on the print?

[bill t.]

I wonder what the effect might be if the photographer used the approach of many painters who make prints:  One signature on the original work, reproduced in the print, then hand-sign another signature on the print?

I print my name in Trajan Pro at the lower right in a color close to whatever is underneath, but just enough brighter for visibility, the total length of my name about 0.9 inches long.  If the image there is highly textural I sometimes subtly darken the highlight areas right underneath with the Burn tool.   Then I sign with the the Micron pen just above.  Even if it's a black signature over some really dark stuff the signature can nevertheless be found with a bit of effort, it's just above the easier to find printed one.

Should mention that I also tried India Ink technical pens.  Can't recommend them...
1. the coatings on inkjet papers tend to grab the pen and prevent a flowing signature and
2. the metallic tips tear up the coatings slightly which causes clogs.  Lost a few prints to botched signatures this way.
3. they still leak just like they always did.

OTOH the Micron pens always flow nicely, but don't forget to exercise them slightly before signing.