Ok Utterly confused

[David Klepacki]

Do 90 % Landscapes.  Now enjoy color again,. So... want one system that will do quality digital color and quality B&W.

John, do you mind focusing on ground glass like with your 4x5, or do you need to have a viewfinder?  I may have the perfect solution for you, since I was facing the same situation.

[John Chayka]

John, do you mind focusing on ground glass like with your 4x5, or do you need to have a viewfinder?  I may have the perfect solution for you, since I was facing the same situation.

David - I'm not picky and can learn with anything, used a simple 8x loupe with 4x5 on ground glass - please let me know what your solution was/is


First - thanks to all for all the feedback- again smart and professional folks out here

1. Just upgraded to a Quad Core processor, Vista 64 and Adobe CS4/Lightroom 2.1 - was slow with dual core/4mg ram and D300 files so I'm sure would be slower with larger files
2. Don't care at all about FPS, matter in fact too easy to take too many "snappy" pictures
3. Currently have an Epson v750 Pro Scanner- wondering if that is good enough. Nighmare thnking about scanning old Kodachromes. Scanned the B&Ws for website (from the moutned prints) and lost alot of tone

Again thanks to all for feedback - some tremendous work out here

And to think E Weston just used $ 300 camera and a simple tungsten light

[Guy Mancuso]

And to think E Weston just used $ 300 camera and a simple tungsten light

Careful here there are some old dogs here. Been there have the T-Shirt. LOL

[David Klepacki]

John,

I basically custom designed a Hasselblad flexbody so that it could mount a PC-Mutar.  The PC-Mutar enlarges the image circle of certain Hasselblad V lenses up to 113mm (e.g., the Hassy 40IF with 78mm image circle becomes a 40IF with 113mm image circle).  I also added additional movements to this camera, so that it could have swings and tilts at the same time.  I get up to about 30mm of shifting (or rise/fall) and about 28-degrees of tilt/swing.  It works exceptionally well with the 40mm IF lens, and also with the 50, 60, 80, and 100 V lenses.  You can use the shifting capability to make high precision stitched images as an option.  I also have 24mm of extension built in when needed for close up or macro work.  Of course, if you do not need the larger image circle, you can still use it with more limited swing/shift capability without the PC-Mutar.  In this case, it will take all of the V lenses from 30mm fisheye to 500mm telephoto.  Of course, it cannot use the FE lenses, since this camera does not have a focal plane shutter.

So, basically, I have created a compact "view camera" that is able to use my Hasselblad V lenses.  It will work with any digital back that supports the Hasselblad V mount (ie, almost everyone, such as Sinar, Phase, Leaf, and Hasselblad).  The camera itself is extremely lightweight and compact, about 2 pounds, with dimensions of about 6x6x5 inches.  If you are serious about having such a camera, just PM me and we can work out the details to make one for you.

[revaaron]

the SLR/n is your best digital solution right now if you are shooting landscapes.  my D3 doesn't touch it at ISO 160.

[revaaron]

oh, and  I would keep the hassy for posed shots, but get a D3x (the D3 is the "sharpest" camera I've ever used), but keep the SLR/n for sunny says with a tripod cause the is no digital camera right now that beats the real look of the SLR/n.

[Murray Fredericks]

That said, my P45+ back can do 1 hour exposures at normal temps, longer in cold climates, and contrary to film it has ZERO reciprocity failure at any selected ISO.  So while I won't get 12-hour star trails, I can certainly do "night work" with it.  The bigger plus is if I want to do a 12-hour exposure, I can always slap a film back on  

Cheers,

Jack and Doug,

point taken on the P+ backs, I don't own one but my understanding is that the image quality is not that great at long exposures?

Don't want to start a brand war though...  

Also, one great advantage of digital backs in landscape work over large format film is the ability to stitch (as mentioned earlier in this thread). Stitching panoramas with 'longer' lenses is particluarly useful as a way to avoid distortion and achieve super wide fields of view...

Murray

[Jack Flesher]

point taken on the P+ backs, I don't own one but my understanding is that the image quality is not that great at long exposures?

I've not seen anything deleterious in 2 to 3 minute exposures in protected environments.  Obviously with longer exposures other factors like wind or ground vibrations can (will) create an additive softening effect on the image, but then that is part and parcel to time exposures regardless of format, medium or camera. In many respects wind can be much worse for large format than MF because the bellows acts like a vibrating sail  

[arc-technika]

I have stayed with film - 8" x 10" film for my landscape work. It is much better for long exposures - I do a lot of night work and digital cannot do this at all...

Murray

I have to agree with Jack, I have had great results with using Phase One digital backs at night. Most of my entire personal portfolio is comprised of night photography, and feel that I have an advantage in terms of dynamic range and capture time with a Plus series back. I would only have time for three or four shots a night if I were to use sheets of NPL, 160S or T64 for a 4x5. MFDBs allow me to cover an environment with quicker exposures (5mins max), rather than an hour for each image. The main reason why I have chosen to use a digital back is because of color temperature manipulation. Compared to 4x5 scans on an Imacon X5 vs a P45+, the P45+ allows me to shift temperatures that would be impossible to do with a scanned sheet of film.

Murray, I'm not too sure what people have told you about Phase One backs, but the image quality is outstanding, IMHO  

[Murray Fredericks]

I have to agree with Jack, I have had great results with using Phase One digital backs at night. Most of my entire personal portfolio is comprised of night photography, and feel that I have an advantage in terms of dynamic range and capture time with a Plus series back. I would only have time for three or four shots a night if I were to use sheets of NPL, 160S or T64 for a 4x5. MFDBs allow me to cover an environment with quicker exposures (5mins max), rather than an hour for each image. The main reason why I have chosen to use a digital back is because of color temperature manipulation. Compared to 4x5 scans on an Imacon X5 vs a P45+, the P45+ allows me to shift temperatures that would be impossible to do with a scanned sheet of film.

Murray, I'm not too sure what people have told you about Phase One backs, but the image quality is outstanding, IMHO  

Yes,

I find the main drawback of my Sinar the lack of ability to shoot architecture and interiors (mycommercial work) beyond 30sec (now I am going to have my Sinar bretheren and the Phase team after me   ), as far as the exhibition work goes, I'm working with stars usually out around 5-10 hours. So, out there it's a level playing field, film is the only way...

By the way, what is the noise like at a 1 hour exposure on a P+ back, and how does any built in noise removal reduce resolution?

Murray

[Jack Flesher]

By the way, what is the noise like at a 1 hour exposure on a P+ back, and how does any built in noise removal reduce resolution?

First off a disclaimer -- I'm not sure exactly which P+ backs do long exposures, but for sure the P45+ and P25+ do.  That said, the built-in NR for long exposures is a dark-frame subtraction, which does not harm resolution in any appreciable fashion. It does however tie the back up for double whatever exposure you do, so a 1 hour exposure takes 2 hours total...

[JDBFreeheel]

Not perfect but this is a solid MFD "starter" kit. I have no affiliation, just came across it this afternoon:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Phase-One-P20-Digital-...1QQcmdZViewItem

-Josh