Maybe your right. I have this old Nikon manual 1.2 lens that produces the most beautiful look.
I've done this test a dozen times where I put it on a D-3 and leave it in the studio. Everytime I walk past it, I turn it on, focus on something and fire a frame.
At the end of the day only about 1 in 5 and tack sharp.
The wierd thing is I have this old Fuji S3, what is that 6mpx or something with the smallest viewfinder ever made.
I can put that lens on the fuji and 8 out of 10 times it's in focus. Now the problem is I never use the fuji, but that either tells me that something is not right with this lens on the d-3 or the d-3 just resoves so much more than the fuji that it is more obvious.
With my contax's I have a different experience. If it works on autofocus then it won't focus on manual, or if doesn't focus tight on auto, then I can always hit it on manual.
Makes no sense but we've gone through this about 20 dozen times and each time the process is the same.
I think there are two issues to correct focus..
Is my kit working ? - Teachnical issues - does my kit do what it says it should
Can I focus ? User Issues/Expectations
For example expecting AF to keep up with a black greyhound (dog) running through a disco strobing light show - it wont happen - a different approach is needed
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Technical Issues
Camera build tolerances
-is the chip in the right place for the AF
-is the mirror at 45degrees andthe GG in the right place
Digiback build tolerances
-third party devices eg phase on hassy
Clean interfacing
Any dust/sand under your focus screen or between the Digiback and Camera body will cause missalignment
I think any system where where these issues cannot be tuned out will not provide good focus
D3 can 'tune'
CanDSIII can 'tune'
Sinar Backs can tune with foilstack or could
I am not aware of any other systems that allow 'user tuning' although I am sure repairers/makers can do it
My Mam645 and Proback used to be totally off even though both devices were serviced and described as 'in tolerance'
My Sinar/BLad is mildly off I keep meaning to try sticking some Rizla paper between the camera and the back to raise the chip a little
Testing ones own equipment is therefore critical
One could have a camera where the chip and mirror/gg are all misaligned creating perfect manual focus and duff AF
One could have a camera where the mirror/gg are off but the chip is where the AF expects it to be creating great AF and Duff manual
For the whole pile of cards to stand up across two manufacturers (three if you have custom screen) seems from an engineering point of view unlikely at 60mp and likely at 8mp
I have shots that are 'ear focussed' that once downsized to the client requirement look fine
Alignment of the lens is not that important however unless you need the distance scale to work - like on a cambo where the distance scale is important - the lense must of course be square onto the camera and centred to aviod unintentional 'micro tilt and shift'
S