JW is correct. I mixed some things up. I'll try agian.
I think the question was how to reduce DoF. To get less, or shallower, DoF, you can:
1. Open up the lens. The larger the actual lens aperture the better to reduce DoF.
2. Use a longer focal length lens.
3. Decrease the focus distance, the distance between the camera and subject.
4. The apearance of in-focus (DoF) can be decreased on the print by making larger prints and/or viewing from a smaller distance. (Of course, if the viewer is far sighted and this isn't corrected, then decreasing viewing distance may increase the DoF for that person.)
5. The apearance of in-focus (DoF) can be decreased on the print by using a sharper lens. Because DoF is the appearance of in-focus, it is easier for the eye to distinguish a difference if the difference is more apparent. The converse is easier for me to understand. It is harder to perceive a difference between an in-focus fuzzy image and a slightly out of focus fuzzy image. A "fuzzier" lens will appear to have greater DoF.
6. The apearance of in-focus (DoF) can be decreased on the print by selecting subjects with crisp edges. Clouds will usually appear to have greater DoF because their edges are fuzzy.
7. Display prints in bright light. This makes it easier for the viewer to see the image and detect focus differences.
8. Make prints that look sharper. Glossy usually appear sharper than matte of textured prints.
Items 1 through 3 are easy. They are hard, physical things on your camera that can "dialed in" or measured.
Items 4 through 8 are more subjective and involve a more personal acceptance of the appearance of in-focus.
There are probably more ways to increase DoF on the print. In my opinion, items 1 through 4 are the heavy weights, more dramatic and easier to see effects.
"... , you cannot seriously be suggesting that you can shoot the same subject, framing, FOV, and distance with an 828 and a 4x5 view camera and get anything remotely approaching similar DOF without using radically different exposure times, f/stop settings, or ISO, are you?"
All I am saying is, there is not different set of DoF facts or equations for an F828, a 35mm, a 6x7, a 4x5 and/or an 8x10 camera. They simply are the same. What ever you do to decrease the DoF on an 8x10 view camera will decrease the Dof on an F828. You do not need to relearn DoF just because you got a new camera.
There are other factors that do come into play that a direct comparison not physically possible. I have never seen a 10mm lens for an 8x10 camera, nor does the F828 have a 12" focal length lens. But that does not change the facts.
"Guys, I feel like my posts are being hijacked for a technilogical discussion each time I post anything on DOF." That is because much of DoF is technical. It is hard to talk about physics without introducing some "science."