Basic Hassy Help - Leaf shutter of lens closed

[psorantin]

Hello Folks,
I am using a 503cw in combo with an Aptus-17 back;

Purchased a 40mm Hassy lens (which I used to rent; like the results), it arrived with the shutter closed - I can't see through the lens.

Can you help with how to get the leaf shutter cocked again, so I can mount it...?

Thanks,
Peter

[Nick-T]

Hello Folks,
I am using a 503cw in combo with an Aptus-17 back;

Purchased a 40mm Hassy lens (which I used to rent; like the results), it arrived with the shutter closed - I can't see through the lens.

Can you help with how to get the leaf shutter cocked again, so I can mount it...?

Thanks,
Peter

There is a slot at the rear of the lens that will line up with a dot when the lens is cocked. Grab a screw driver and rotate the slot 'til it lines up but be very careful that it doesn't slip off and scratch the rear element.
Nick-T

[Hägar the horrible]

Grab a screw driver and rotate the slot 'til it lines up but be very careful that it doesn't slip off and scratch the rear element.
Nick-T

dont take a screwdriver if you want to be very careful, take a piece of money

[buzzski]

dont take a screwdriver if you want to be very careful, take a piece of money

Wise words, well said, a slightly larger coin will give you more purchase too.

[jmboss]

Help from any Hassy 500 EL/M users out there,

I have a related problem with the lens and camera body being out of sync.

When changing lenses on my 500 EL/M, I removed a CF lens and then mounted an older C lens, and then when I fired the  EL/M the camera's battery evidently went dead. Or the battery may have gone dead just before changing the lens.

I changed out the battery, hoping that with fresh power the camera and lens would complete their cocking process, but this did not happen. The result is that both the lens and the camera are not completely cycled for the next shot. The camera's rear curtains are open and the mirror is in the up position. The lens shutter is closed.

I tried the infamous screw driver method to attempt to complete the process of cocking the lens, but the screw has no give and I did not want to force it. Also when looking at the back of the EL/M the winding gear at the top right I noticed that it does not look to be in its cocked position as compared with another (500C/M) body.

As would be expected, the uncocked lens cannot be removed from the EL/M camera body.

I have read that one should never change lenses on a 500 EL/M without battery power, and I believe that is exactly what has occurred here. But, maybe there are other issues, as the camera body has not been serviced in several years.

Does anyone have any ideas on how to correct this problem?

I have the sinking feeling that I am SOL, and looking at a minimum of $300 in repairs.

Thanks for any information,

Joe

[buzzski]

Help from any Hassy 500 EL/M users out there,

I have a related problem with the lens and camera body being out of sync.

When changing lenses on my 500 EL/M, I removed a CF lens and then mounted an older C lens, and then when I fired the  EL/M the camera's battery evidently went dead. Or the battery may have gone dead just before changing the lens.

I changed out the battery, hoping that with fresh power the camera and lens would complete their cocking process, but this did not happen. The result is that both the lens and the camera are not completely cycled for the next shot. The camera's rear curtains are open and the mirror is in the up position. The lens shutter is closed.

I tried the infamous screw driver method to attempt to complete the process of cocking the lens, but the screw has no give and I did not want to force it. Also when looking at the back of the EL/M the winding gear at the top right I noticed that it does not look to be in its cocked position as compared with another (500C/M) body.

As would be expected, the uncocked lens cannot be removed from the EL/M camera body.

I have read that one should never change lenses on a 500 EL/M without battery power, and I believe that is exactly what has occurred here. But, maybe there are other issues, as the camera body has not been serviced in several years.

Does anyone have any ideas on how to correct this problem?

I have the sinking feeling that I am SOL, and looking at a minimum of $300 in repairs.

Thanks for any information,

Joe

Maybe worth a try... put your batteries back in and connect the charger, then try turning the screwdriver on the drive screw again with mains power going to the camera. In the past when shooting in the studio and my batteries have gone dead, I've connected the charger and effectively used it as a mains adaptor to continue shooting while the batteries are charging. Be really careful with the screwdriver so close to tour rear element, I would always use a slightly larger one to give me more purchase and reduce slip on the screw. For what it's worth in my opinion I don't see that changing from CF to C lens would have anything to do with your situation, I have a variety of lenses and tubes and providing I wind before changing I never have an issue. Hope this helps, Craig

[jmboss]

Maybe worth a try... put your batteries back in and connect the charger, then try turning the screwdriver on the drive screw again with mains power going to the camera. In the past when shooting in the studio and my batteries have gone dead, I've connected the charger and effectively used it as a mains adaptor to continue shooting while the batteries are charging. Be really careful with the screwdriver so close to tour rear element, I would always use a slightly larger one to give me more purchase and reduce slip on the screw. For what it's worth in my opinion I don't see that changing from CF to C lens would have anything to do with your situation, I have a variety of lenses and tubes and providing I wind before changing I never have an issue. Hope this helps, Craig

Thanks buzzski for your interest in solving my EL/M problem.

I have managed with one of the many custom screw release tools available to remove the lens from the camera body.
I have recharged the batteries, but the camera does not complete the cocking cycle when moving the L-O-T switch from L to O as per the Hasselblad Instruction books.

I now suspect that I may have a blown fuse, though I cannot tell visually if it is really bad. I suppose there is some kind of test I could rig up to find out for sure.

I am in the process of mail ordering several of the Hasselblad (custom) fuses since nobody locally stocks them (or has even heard of a fuse with the specs used in the Hassy EL series cameras). Whether this is the actual problem or not I suppose it will be good to have extras on hand since they are not readily available. I have already placed an order for 2 new Nickel Metal Hydride replacement batteries.

I wish there still was a Hasselblad Authorized Repair dealer in town. Or even a Professional Camera dealer. Sign of the times I guess.

In the meantime, I have reviewed all my manuals, much online material, and even Ernst Wildi's Hasselblad book. There is a definite lack of practical operating advice for the EL series of cameras even though it was in production from 1964-2006!

One conclusion that I have reached in regard to Hasselblad EL series cameras is:

Do not try operating ANY EL camera body series function whatsoever, without fresh battery power, whenever a lens is attached to the camera. This advice should supercede the common(?) knowledge that one should just never change lenses on a EL series without battery power.

I am glad to I am gradually upgrading to a newer Mamiya AFD series camera system, which is a least 30 years ahead in camera technology.

Joe

[gwhitf]

Do not try operating ANY EL camera body series function whatsoever, without fresh battery power, whenever a lens is attached to the camera. This advice should supercede the common(?) knowledge that one should just never change lenses on a EL series without battery power.

I used to own an ELD but it's been years. This will not apply to you, but with the 500 and 200 series, (non motor drive), you mount the manual crank on the body, (no motor drive), and then you open the manual crank lever. Then, you push in that CENTER BUTTON and then crank the camera. This will raise the mirror and get you back in business even if the battery is dead inside the camera.

I don't know if there's an equivalent feature in the motor drive body like you have.

[Hägar the horrible]

Joe, keep in mind that a Hasselblad BODY needs to be serviced from time to time. Fiddling around with screwdrivers may solve the problem for a moment, however you cant be sure when you are running into the next problem, not a nice feeling to start a day.
In most cases these old boxes need a bit of lubri---thing (you know what) and they are good for a couple of years