sync cable with a hasselblad v

[geesbert]

How annoying is the sync cable when you use a MFDB on a hasselblad V? is there a special cable that integrates a bit better than the regular short spiral sync? is tape or glue an option?

where do you attach your pocketwizard without a hot (or cold) shoe, do you just keepit dangleing? velcro?


stefan

[buzzski]

Personally I don't find it much of a problem. I use the standard short curly one and depending on whether I'm shooting hand-held or on a pod I can wrap it over, under, around the finder or whatever suits. It's best to keep it away from the wind crank but other than that it's not a problem. I must admit I have left it behind in the case before and had to walk back to the car to retrieve it, a bit like the loss of a dark slide, it renders your camera useless! Attaching a receiver is less than satisfactory IMO. I use the accessory shoe when using a standard WLF which I find isn't quite as convenient as when I use a prism when I can mount it on top of the finder. Again, it isn't a huge deal but I'm always aware of knocking it or brushing against it in tight spaces. I have in the past used velcro but it wasn't too reliable, but with a bit of experimentation it might wrk for you. I'm a big fan of V series Blads and although having bags of DSLR kit I take much more pleasure in shooting with them, aside from the superior image quality I find I work more methodically and am less prone to over shooting - horses for courses I guess! Hope this helps...

[Vernonclarke]

Hi Stefan,

I used a 501cm for the last 7 years with various PhaseOne backs and never had a problem with the cable working loose, although I have the cfi lenses that have a lock on the sync to stop the cable working loose.

As Buzzski mentions, the accessory holder was where I attached the pocket wizard, or on the prism when used.

I now use the Phase camera and to be honest prefer this new camera to the V, easier to shoot with, but the cable was never a problem.

Hope this helps...

Steve

[klane]

What is a good place to pick up extra sync cables? I knw someone posted a link to a place where you could order custom configs and lengths but i do not recall what it was...

[Sean Reginald Knight]

What is a good place to pick up extra sync cables? I knw someone posted a link to a place where you could order custom configs and lengths but i do not recall what it was...

http://www.paramountcords.com

[Dustbak]

I used a V with A17 for several years, Though I could work with it, I never enjoyed feeling the cord between my fingers or in my hand. I found it simply distracting. I rarely had the problem of the cable working itself loose even with my 30 year old CF lenses but I always had the fear it would.

I bought several sync cords on Ebay of the non-curly type that were less obvious in my hands (though of lesser quality). I also forgot to bring the cords on several occasions so I eventually got about a dozen of them. I kept several in each camera bag.

The sync cable thing might not be ideal but it should not keep you from using a system if that is your preferred configuration however if possible I would prefer having the same without the need for a sync cable.

BTW, this is only when using handheld. On a tripod the sync cable I find to be a non-issue.

[shutay]

I use an Hasselblad branded Ixpress V96C on a Bronica SQ-B body through a V-mount adapter. Apart from the necessary ImageBank hard disk pack, I have to use the sync cord as well. Althought it is undoubtedly less ideal and less convenient than a proper thru-body connection, it works, and I don't really find that it gets in the way. The ImageBank, I would say, is a far greater inconvenience and I put up with that! I've never left  it behind since it's always mounted on the camera and back anyway, although when I put the camera into the bag, I do tend to disconnect the end of the cable that plugs into the digital back to prevent too much stress on the connector when it is in a bag.

Some caveats:
1. You won't get EXIF information for your shutter or aperture values used for each shot.
2. You can leave the shutter speed set in the back to something like 1/30th or 1/15th for most shots and shoot at any shutter speed higher than or equal to this, unless you start to get to slower speeds, then you will have to start fiddling with shutter speed settings on both your camera body AND the digital back.

[Chris Livsey]

[attachment=8716:p20b.jpg][attachment=8715:P20.jpg][attachment=8717:p20c.jpg]


Not annoying at all. I loop it around the prism, this is the 45, the 90 does this as well and if I use, rarely, the WLF that also works but the cable drops down if you drop the chimney.

Sorry no pocket wizard or similar.

[samuel_js]

[attachment=8716:p20b.jpg][attachment=8715:P20.jpg][attachment=8717:p20c.jpg]


Not annoying at all. I loop it around the prism, this is the 45, the 90 does this as well and if I use, rarely, the WLF that also works but the cable drops down if you drop the chimney.

Sorry no pocket wizard or similar.

Chris that's exactly how I do it, but with the Winder CW. The cable gets fixed between the Winder and the camera body and it doesn't move. You just need to give the cable a little room at the lens edge to be able to connect to longer lenses.

[Chris Livsey]

Chris that's exactly how I do it,

But with better lighting