Multishot?

[Jonathan H]

Can someone clarify multishot technology for me?

I've been half-heartedly looking at buying a used MFDB system and in all my googling and reading, I have yet to come across the answer to my following question...  I realize that it allows the camera to capture a non-interpolated image using a single capture for each of the RGB pixels in the sensor, but...

Does this mean it needs to actually take 3 separate images (with shutter flipping and I suppose the need for strobes to fire 3 separate times) and then use the included proprietary software to "stack" and create the final image?
-OR-
Does it mean a slightly longer exposure time while each pixel-color activates?
-OR-
Does it happen instantly on every capture and appear to function similarly to a typical DSLR?

Or maybe none of the above?

Any insight would be appreciated!

[SeanBK]

Can someone clarify multishot technology for me?

I've been half-heartedly looking at buying a used MFDB system and in all my googling and reading, I have yet to come across the answer to my following question...  I realize that it allows the camera to capture a non-interpolated image using a single capture for each of the RGB pixels in the sensor, but...

Does this mean it needs to actually take 3 separate images (with shutter flipping and I suppose the need for strobes to fire 3 separate times) and then use the included proprietary software to "stack" and create the final image?
-OR-
Does it mean a slightly longer exposure time while each pixel-color activates?
-OR-
Does it happen instantly on every capture and appear to function similarly to a typical DSLR?

Or maybe none of the above?

Any insight would be appreciated!
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=224178\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

"Does this mean it needs to actually take 3 separate images (with shutter flipping and I suppose the need for strobes to fire 3 separate times) and then use the included proprietary software to "stack" and create the final image?"
  Yes, The sensor shifts slighly  so it captures RRGB & then stacks them together. Your file size quadruples but quality is vastly improved, moire is eliminated & I believe so is CA. Obviously the use is limited to studio still life or distant landscape (as breeze will show problems on leaves). Excellent for Architectural. Hasselblad multi shot backs can shoot single shot too.

[bdp]

There are two types of multishot capture - a 4 shot and a 16 shot. With each type the camera must take 4 or 16 consecutive pictures. A 4 shot capture does not increase your file size but will eliminate moire and give a 'true' colour and takes 4 pictures (RGGB) after moving the chip by one pixel's width in a square.

A 16 shot capture moves the chip by one half (or is it a quarter?) of a pixel and does the RGGB captures 4 times, thus increasing the resolution by 4 times. So a 22 megapixel back is effectively an 88 megapixel back and gives roughly a 250MB 8 bit file, 10,000 pixels along the long edge. Nothing can move in between the 16 captures, the lighting has to be consistent and the camera can have no vibration. For this reason cameras with mirrors often won't work unless the mirrors can be locked up for the entire process. So a 5x4 camera with a lens with an electronic shutter is the best way to do it.

Ben

[Dustbak]

I use a multishot and would not want to be without one when doing stills with garment or any other fabric. Above mentioned way is correct. I use the H2 and Digiflex II to do multishot. 4-shot is very well doable when working on a good tripod, naturally the objects need to remain static. I always take a single shot as well to be able to blend parts of that in in case of emergency.

16-shot is a whole different matter. I rarely use it and when I do it is very difficult to get satisfactory results. You have to be meticulous in getting everything perfectly still otherwise your image will be compromised.

BTW, the H will flip the mirror at the first shot and keep it up until all 4 shots have been taken.

The quality of multishot easily surpasses singleshot.

[bdp]

Yes, I agree it will be hard to be satisfied with single shot captures when I upgrade to a new back, unless the interpolation of the newer backs is better in single shot mode than my Jenoptik Eyelike Precision M22. I will keep my ancient 22mpx tethered-only 25 ISO screenless back just so I can still use the multishot when I shoot a still life job that includes fabrics, architecture, if I need a huge file, or if there is a lot of red or overlapping red and greens in a shot. This is the most obvious time when a 4 shot capture looks much better than an interpolated single shot. I shoot a lot of food, and if I have strawberries or other reds in the shot I will try to use 4 shot mode for that. Similarly if there is a green leafy salad with red chilli or other red bits overlapping the greens the quality of the overlapping edges is vastly improved - no harsh dark halo or outline like in a single shot. 4 shot mode works fine with my Contax as long as you shoot it in the 2 sec self timer mode, because the mirror flips up then the shutter fires 2 seconds later, after the mirror vibration has settled. 16 shots work perfectly for me with a Sinar P2 and Schneider digitar lenses with their electronic shutters, but often need a bit more sharpening in post. I am aware the new cameras like the Hy6 and Hassy can keep the mirror up for the entire process, so in theory a 16 shot capture with one of these cameras should be no problem.

Ben

[Jonathan H]

Thank you all for the excellent answers!

[Imaginara]

ive just recently purchased a multishot back aswell (Eyelike Precision M11) and will shoot quite a lot of textiles and product with it. Right now its on its way in the post to me.

But im a bit curious what effect changing the scene between multishot exposures have. Does it go totally haywire or does it introduce blurring or just artifacts?

/Henrik

[bdp]

You get red green or blue 'ghosting' and a pretty rainbow effect! If the exposure varies between shots, the software will abort the process. This can happen when using natural light and a cloud may cover the sun half way through the 16 captures.

Ben