Ringlite Light Panels

[jsch]

Hi,

beside the megapixel race a question about how different forms of light behave on sensors. In my experience flash (Bron) and tungsten (Arri or Bron modeling light) give me a lot of problems with skin tones, i.e. difficult to filter red and magenta casts (Phase P21, Canon 1DsMkII). With HMI (Arri 125 / 575) the skin tones are much better to handle. But - and this is a BUT: Ask someone to look into a HMI fresnel for more than 30 minutes and they start to hate you.

Has anyone experience with Lite Panels, like these? How do they render skin tones with digital cameras?
http://www.s131567196.onlinehome.us/products/ringlite.asp

Best,
Johannes

[Snook]

Hi,

beside the megapixel race a question about how different forms of light behave on sensors. In my experience flash (Bron) and tungsten (Arri or Bron modeling light) give me a lot of problems with skin tones, i.e. difficult to filter red and magenta casts (Phase P21, Canon 1DsMkII). With HMI (Arri 125 / 575) the skin tones are much better to handle. But - and this is a BUT: Ask someone to look into a HMI fresnel for more than 30 minutes and they start to hate you.

Has anyone experience with Lite Panels, like these? How do they render skin tones with digital cameras?
http://www.s131567196.onlinehome.us/products/ringlite.asp

Best,
Johannes
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=208881\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

tell that to all the people that work with Peter Lindbergh...:+} 25 kers there..;+}
Snook

[TMARK]

I don't know much about LED lights.  I'd check what the manufacturer rates these lights in terms of color rendering index.  Anything above 90 is good.

I'm surprised your ARRI tungsten unit  gives you issues.  May be an old bulb.  The CRI of an ARRI 1k is like 92 or so.  Throw a 3/4 CTB over the ARRI tungsten and it should be better, maybe change the globe as well.  The modeling light, well, those have a CRI of about 80 something when new, with a real, measured color temp of about 2300k, when new.  I measured some older modeling lights in my Profotos and found that some had a color temp of 1900k.

[Kumar]

I asked this same question on the Betterlight forum, and Karl Lang says the color rendering of most LED based video lights is "abysmal".  He says only the Kelvin Tile is good enough. But it's not cheap! http://elementlabs.com/KelvinTILE.html

Cheers,
Kumar

[Studio12NYC]

for me there is nothing better than the Kelvin Tile.  I have two of them and rent a lot more when I need them.

flagged, scrimed, gelled, netted, bounced.  All around great light in any situation.  Travel really well!

I am a big tungsten and kino shooter as well.  Never had a problem with Canon, Phase or Leaf on skin tones with gelled Tungsten Arri's  I shoot with K5600 HMI's and amazingly consistent.

Never used the modeling light on a strobe, so don't know what to tell you there.

Peter never has people look into the light.  His light is normally bounced or flying so high it doesn't matter.  Most of his main lights are 6 and 12k's and the 18-24k's are just props on set.

I am sure I don't have to mention it.  But are you using a color card on the first shot of each light set up?

Best of luck

[pss]

Hi,

beside the megapixel race a question about how different forms of light behave on sensors. In my experience flash (Bron) and tungsten (Arri or Bron modeling light) give me a lot of problems with skin tones, i.e. difficult to filter red and magenta casts (Phase P21, Canon 1DsMkII). With HMI (Arri 125 / 575) the skin tones are much better to handle. But - and this is a BUT: Ask someone to look into a HMI fresnel for more than 30 minutes and they start to hate you.

Has anyone experience with Lite Panels, like these? How do they render skin tones with digital cameras?
http://www.s131567196.onlinehome.us/products/ringlite.asp

Best,
Johannes
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=208881\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

i have used all Lite panel products including the ringlight and they are great...dimmable, different color temp, some are battery operated....very compact and the latest generation is also pretty powerful (for LEDs).....

i have owned ringlights from broncolor and hensel and never got satisfying results with either with canons (which is why i stopped using them)....i never had problems with phase backs though....i always felt that the highlight transitions and shadows just look horrible with DSLRs...be it canon or nikon....using ringfalsh makes it even worse, it is just so unforgiving and you really need the DR and pixeldepth....

i have a friend who shoots his celeb protraits with ringlight(and other flash heads) and a P21...no problem with skin tones....but he got the phase because the canon just could not give him the look he was used to from film.....

skintone is also very dependend on the developer and i am sure everybody has a different reason why they use aperture, LR or C1 or whatever....maybe all for different situations...

in general i would also say that i never make anyone look into ANY light for even close to 30 min at a time....and most celebs (i am sure even for peter) won't give you more then 5-10min anyway.....


i have never used the kelvin tile...

[BJNY]

for me there is nothing better than the Kelvin Tile.  I have two of them and rent a lot more when I need them.

flagged, scrimed, gelled, netted, bounced.  All around great light in any situation.  Travel really well!

Studio12NYC,
What sort of exposure are you getting with the Tile, compared to Kino?
How would you characterize the quality of the light, again compared to Kino?
Any chance you could post a jpeg or two examples, please?
Thank you,
Billy

[TMARK]

Studio12NYC,
What sort of exposure are you getting with the Tile, compared to Kino?
How would you characterize the quality of the light, again compared to Kino?
Any chance you could post a jpeg or two examples, please?
Thank you,
Billy
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=209025\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Not to get all geeky but does the manufacturer provide a spectral analysis of the light showing the frequency of the emitted light?

[Studio12NYC]

TMark,

I could care less about those charts!  Not to slag you, but I put the light up and shoot.  I do not care about spectral quality, MTF charts of lenses, etc.. etc..  None of that shit will tell you how it will look on film or sensor.  

I use it on 4x5 a lot and on a P45+ through Hassy H with H and V lenses.

Billy,

One KT will give you about the same output as Parabeam 400 at half the size and weight.  It is a small fixture at 14x14.  I usually bunch them together for beauty and or environmental portraits on location to fill in the light.

In a black room at ISO 100 you're at 125th at F8 fully open with no netting or flagging about three feet from the face.

[BJNY]

Billy,

One KT will give you about the same output as Parabeam 400 at half the size and weight.  It is a small fixture at 14x14.  I usually bunch them together for beauty and or environmental portraits on location to fill in the light.

In a black room at ISO 100 you're at 125th at F8 fully open with no netting or flagging about three feet from the face.

Thank you.

What does each unit cost?
I don't see mention of any pricing online.

[Snook]

TMark,

I could care less about those charts!  Not to slag you, but I put the light up and shoot.  I do not care about spectral quality, MTF charts of lenses, etc.. etc..  None of that shit will tell you how it will look on film or sensor. 

I use it on 4x5 a lot and on a P45+ through Hassy H with H and V lenses.

Billy,

One KT will give you about the same output as Parabeam 400 at half the size and weight.  It is a small fixture at 14x14.  I usually bunch them together for beauty and or environmental portraits on location to fill in the light.

In a black room at ISO 100 you're at 125th at F8 fully open with no netting or flagging about three feet from the face.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=209045\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

at 125/th I take it they are flicker free right?
Snook

[BJNY]

http://elementlabs.com/FactSheets/el-kelvi...-fact-sheet.pdf

http://elementlabs.com/ElementLabsSupportF...Users_Guide.pdf

http://www.kinoflo.com/Lighting%20Fixtures...KelvinTile.html

[TMARK]

TMark,

I could care less about those charts!  Not to slag you, but I put the light up and shoot.  I do not care about spectral quality, MTF charts of lenses, etc.. etc..  None of that shit will tell you how it will look on film or sensor. 

I use it on 4x5 a lot and on a P45+ through Hassy H with H and V lenses.

Billy,

One KT will give you about the same output as Parabeam 400 at half the size and weight.  It is a small fixture at 14x14.  I usually bunch them together for beauty and or environmental portraits on location to fill in the light.

In a black room at ISO 100 you're at 125th at F8 fully open with no netting or flagging about three feet from the face.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=209045\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Yo son its not a tech geek question!  I don't care about charts for cameras and lenses and even lights either, but I gaff for music videos and film and often have to balance some odd and divergent sources to the key or reference source color temp by way of gels.  I can look at a spectral sensitivity chart and know if I need a 1/2 CTS and some plus green to balance it with all the other lights, including odd practicals I find on the set.  If the spectral output is retarded like all these new industrial sodium lights then its a non starter for me. I've never used one, so I don't know.  Thus a chart would hook my ass up in this regard, such that I don't waste time.  So its not a pixel peeper question but one that helps me do my job.

Edited to add:  These things look amazing!  The paint box looks incredible.  6 color lights individually controlled, so spectral sensitivity and gelling may not matter at all.  And the strobe function looks promising.  No more sync boxes to sync with shutter speed.  

Studio12, you say at three feet F8, 1/125 at 100.  Is that a single panel?  

Thanks

[TMARK]

http://elementlabs.com/FactSheets/el-kelvi...-fact-sheet.pdf

http://elementlabs.com/ElementLabsSupportF...Users_Guide.pdf

http://www.kinoflo.com/Lighting%20Fixtures...KelvinTile.html
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=209106\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Thanks BJ.  They look very interesting.  I think I'm going to rent one and shoot some video with it, see how it behaves.  I'll shoot some stills with a canon and a phase and see what up.  

Thnaks,

T

[BJNY]

From where will you rent it?
Barbizon says it's not available for sale or rental, yet?

[TMARK]

From where will you rent it?
Barbizon says it's not available for sale or rental, yet?
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=209119\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

I didn't know that!  I'll ask around.

[Studio12NYC]

You have to buy from KINO direct at the moment.  But you have to know someone, to get it before September.

They are flicker free.

$4,200.00 with the Paintbox $3,500.00 w/o Paintbox.

I currently don't have the paintbox unit as this is why I gel. Once the paint box is out it will be amazing.

Two banks set up always like a small strip.

[TMARK]

You have to buy from KINO direct at the moment.  But you have to know someone, to get it before September.

They are flicker free.

$4,200.00 with the Paintbox $3,500.00 w/o Paintbox.

I currently don't have the paintbox unit as this is why I gel. Once the paint box is out it will be amazing.

Two banks set up always like a small strip.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=209199\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

I read all the specs and it looks fantastic!  The paintbox looks particularly exciting.  They look rugged as well.  Nice and small for lighting cramped interiors.

Thanks for the info.

T

[MarkKay]

Have you ever tried the Mini Litepanels?  THey were designed for Digital camcorders. M

i have used all Lite panel products including the ringlight and they are great...dimmable, different color temp, some are battery operated....very compact and the latest generation is also pretty powerful (for LEDs).....

i have owned ringlights from broncolor and hensel and never got satisfying results with either with canons (which is why i stopped using them)....i never had problems with phase backs though....i always felt that the highlight transitions and shadows just look horrible with DSLRs...be it canon or nikon....using ringfalsh makes it even worse, it is just so unforgiving and you really need the DR and pixeldepth....

i have a friend who shoots his celeb protraits with ringlight(and other flash heads) and a P21...no problem with skin tones....but he got the phase because the canon just could not give him the look he was used to from film.....

skintone is also very dependend on the developer and i am sure everybody has a different reason why they use aperture, LR or C1 or whatever....maybe all for different situations...

in general i would also say that i never make anyone look into ANY light for even close to 30 min at a time....and most celebs (i am sure even for peter) won't give you more then 5-10min anyway.....
i have never used the kelvin tile...
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=208961\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

[pss]

Have you ever tried the Mini Litepanels?  THey were designed for Digital camcorders. M
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=209318\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

the lite panels were all designed for movie/TV use....afaik the minis are the same bulbs as the others...just fewer....no i have never used the minis...but the battery on the back looks just great....i can imagine using these in a really tight spot, they can really go anywhere, just hide them anywhere....
with the cleaner high iso of the new cameras and backs these lights (all of them) really become more and more interesting...