40D Long Exposure/High ISO Noise Removal

[Murray Fredericks]

Hi All,

I am using the Canon 40D for Time Lapse work for use in a film. The exposures are long- around 1 minute and between 400ISO and 1600ISO.

We have to shoot directly to jpeg as some sequences will be around 2500 frames and there is not enough space for Raw file capture.

Question:

- Using the 'reduce long exposure noise' setting means the gap between exposures must be equal to the exposure and this can cause problems with the time lapse sequence. How effective is this feature, how necessary is it - particularly using jpegs. Can this noise be taken out as well or even more effectively in post?

- Using the 'reduce High ISO Noise' setting does not seem to do much at all, if anything initial tests show a softening overall - I guess this is the feature blurring the noise?

Best quality is essential (given I am not working at the highest quality end of digital photography) as it's going to cinema.

I'd love to know how these features actually work if anyone can explain it...

Cheers

Murray

[timescapes]

Murray, you absolutely cannot use the noise reduction system, or your timelapses will be extremely choppy.  In fact, your intervals should not be longer than 7 or 8 seconds if you want to keep your night shots smooth.

If you need some advice or want to chat on the phone, PM me.  

I would not be shooting JPEG either.  I don't see how you could shoot 2500 frames per night if your exposures are 1 minute.  I shoot 90s exposure night timelapses all the time and never fill up my 8GB card.  Certainly not a 16GB card.

Here is a 1-minute sample of my night work to give you can idea of what can be done on a very simple 350D.....

http://www.timescapes.org/nightdemo720.mov

You can achieve a great deal of noise reduction in the Camera RAW phase of processing the clips, in AE, for example.

[Murray Fredericks]

your intervals should not be longer than 7 or 8 seconds if you want to keep your night shots smooth.

I would not be shooting JPEG either.  I don't see how you could shoot 2500 frames per night if your exposures are 1 minute.  I shoot 90s exposure night timelapses all the time and never fill up my 8GB card.  Certainly not a 16GB card.

You can achieve a great deal of noise reduction in the Camera RAW phase of processing the clips, in AE, for example.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=208179\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Hi Tom,

great work on your trailer!

Yes, the 2500 frames is for daytime (I didn't tell the whole story) and I just went with jpegs all round. But, I will now switch to raw and process in Lightroom?? o you have an opinion here - it's just my usual workflow.

Would love to chat about your power source too - I am currently soldering canon batteries together as a generator is not possible and I have found that swapping batteries drops frames.

Thanks

Murray

[timescapes]

Hi Tom,

great work on your trailer!

Yes, the 2500 frames is for daytime (I didn't tell the whole story) and I just went with jpegs all round. But, I will now switch to raw and process in Lightroom?? o you have an opinion here - it's just my usual workflow.

Would love to chat about your power source too - I am currently soldering canon batteries together as a generator is not possible and I have found that swapping batteries drops frames.

Thanks

Murray
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=208216\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Just pick up a 12v portable battery backup device.  They sell them at pep boys and walmart, etc.  These units are typically for jumpstarting a car, but they also have worklights and air compressors sometimes.  Maybe around 60 bucks. The one I use has 17 amp hours, so that's plenty of juice.  

Better to chat on the phone, since this stuff gets pretty detailed and I'm not sure what gear you already have, etc.  

Workflow for RAW should be photoshop or lightroom batch, or AE.  With JPEGs you can just drop those into AE or Premiere Pro, of course.