Hi,
Problem is that you need good viewing light for that. Colors probably match pretty well and I feel that everyday prints turn out perfect. The problem I see is that dark parts of the image (like shadow detail) is lost, unless you have very good viewing light. Actually i don't see a way around it, if you have good blacks and shadows you need good light. A 20W halogen spot 2-3 meters from the print is OK.
Something I do is that I print a calculated Macbeth Color Checker and read it with the ColorMunki in scan mode. I can't say that I can see much difference (if any) between my Color Checker and my print, but that also depends on viewing light. The reason I do these checks is essentially to have some kind of "objective" way of checking consistency. I have written a small program to calculate Delta E, something like this:
erik-kaffehrs-computer:~/Projects/DeltaE ekr$ ./DeltaE MBCC_DRYCREEK.csv SP3800_IGSG_01_RelCol_cured_a.csv
6.33 5.52 4.08 5.06 7.75 6.46
8.41 6.75 7.08 4.95 7.66 8.5
8.84 6.7 6.83 6.1 10.7 6.86
5.41 3.41 3.57 2.67 1.7 1.73
Max error = 10.7 mean error 5.96
My DeltaE calculation is the the oldest and simplest form of Delta E, but I guess it's OK for my purpose.
David,
You said:
"When printed out and compared the difference ranged from very subtle to quite obviously more pleasing in color rendition and shadow detail."
Do the prints MATCH your calibrated display? That's the most important for trusting color edits.
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