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Author Topic: Nick Rains H3D2 report  (Read 2765 times)

drew

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Nick Rains H3D2 report
« on: May 21, 2008, 11:40:32 am »

Hi all,
Did I miss which version of the the Hassie H3D2 Nick Rains was writing about? Was it the 22MP, 31MP or 39MP version?
Also, I note that Nick could not resist having yet another dig at Canon for not assigning a dedicated button for mirror lock-up on their cameras. Am I the only photographer who actually prefers Canon's method of inplementing mirror lock-up? i.e. you actually set the camera into a mirror lock-up mode where everything is operated from the remote release. When stitiching images, I find it a considerable advantage not having to touch the camera or press any controls on it when panning between each station. I have the 645 AFDII and accessing the little button to operate the mirror lock on each exposure can cause panning movement between each stitched image (unless you lock the pan control between each exposure; equally a pain). No such problem with a Canon DSLR.
Boy, I can feel the flames already (burn, baby burn!).
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Nick Rains

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Nick Rains H3D2 report
« Reply #1 on: May 21, 2008, 08:20:35 pm »

Quote
Hi all,
Did I miss which version of the the Hassie H3D2 Nick Rains was writing about? Was it the 22MP, 31MP or 39MP version?
Also, I note that Nick could not resist having yet another dig at Canon for not assigning a dedicated button for mirror lock-up on their cameras. Am I the only photographer who actually prefers Canon's method of inplementing mirror lock-up? i.e. you actually set the camera into a mirror lock-up mode where everything is operated from the remote release. When stitiching images, I find it a considerable advantage not having to touch the camera or press any controls on it when panning between each station. I have the 645 AFDII and accessing the little button to operate the mirror lock on each exposure can cause panning movement between each stitched image (unless you lock the pan control between each exposure; equally a pain). No such problem with a Canon DSLR.
Boy, I can feel the flames already (burn, baby burn!).
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=197035\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
No flames...

BTW it was the 39Mp version, I did indeed miss that bit of important info.

"I find it a considerable advantage not having to touch the camera or press any controls on it when panning between each station"

How do you do this without touching the camera?

Regarding MLU, the mirror stays up until you press the button again. I'm assuming the Mamiya mirror drops down after the exposure - not so the Blad. You can do as many exposures as you like without the mirror moving at all - perfect for bracketed exposuers.

This is what I want on the Canon - a simple button to toggle the mirror up or down, independant of any camera modes. It would be far superior to the current method where the mirror goes up and down before and after exposures, potentially moving the camera slightly.
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Nick Rains
Australian Photographer Leica

Bill Caulfeild-Browne

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Nick Rains H3D2 report
« Reply #2 on: May 21, 2008, 08:36:24 pm »

Quote
Hi all,
Did I miss which version of the the Hassie H3D2 Nick Rains was writing about? Was it the 22MP, 31MP or 39MP version?
Also, I note that Nick could not resist having yet another dig at Canon for not assigning a dedicated button for mirror lock-up on their cameras. Am I the only photographer who actually prefers Canon's method of inplementing mirror lock-up? i.e. you actually set the camera into a mirror lock-up mode where everything is operated from the remote release. When stitiching images, I find it a considerable advantage not having to touch the camera or press any controls on it when panning between each station. I have the 645 AFDII and accessing the little button to operate the mirror lock on each exposure can cause panning movement between each stitched image (unless you lock the pan control between each exposure; equally a pain). No such problem with a Canon DSLR.
Boy, I can feel the flames already (burn, baby burn!).
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=197035\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

If you set the shutter button to C (continuous) on the Mamiya, the mirror stays up after you press the MLU button. (Actually, it lowers very briefly but then goes back to MLU). You don't need to touch the camera.
Bill
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drew

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Nick Rains H3D2 report
« Reply #3 on: May 22, 2008, 05:40:04 am »

Quote
If you set the shutter button to C (continuous) on the Mamiya, the mirror stays up after you press the MLU button. (Actually, it lowers very briefly but then goes back to MLU). You don't need to touch the camera.
Bill
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=197145\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Bill,
Thanks for that. Nice tip.

Nick,
Of course you have to touch the camera to pan it between each station, but having postitioned it, it is an advantage not having to touch it again. This is particularly important with the 645 AFDII/ZD back when using the camera in infra-red mode, as with an 89B filter over the lens you do not have a clear visual confirmation that in locking up the mirror you have not lost your overlap position. However, with Bill's tip it does not look like I will have this problem anymore.
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MarkKay

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Nick Rains H3D2 report
« Reply #4 on: May 22, 2008, 03:32:17 pm »

On the hassy you can select MLU or MLU with a timer. I use a 2 second timer when  when i do not have my  shutter release extension cord with me.  Somehow I noticed that  I set the  mirror lock-up such that after the release the mirror goes back down only when I use with the timer.  I am not sure what i did but will go back through the menu choices.

BTW i have both the canon 1DsmkIII  and hasselblad H3DII-31 and i much prefer the MLU on the later.
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