1DS3--Just got it, WB problem?

[sojournerphoto]

OK to all of your posts.

Jon, yes I know that to be accurate use the histogram, as I always do. I was just seeing a difference between the 5D and the DS3 in that the 1DS3 seems to blow the highlights more often in high contrast images when it says it has a 'correct exposure' when in evaluative mode.

Also, I was reading the manual today, and it says you can calibrate the WB for each setting. I wonder if I can dial in the WB in camera for fluorescent?

As far a AF accuracy goes--I sure would be grateful for a way to send up a cr2 file so you can all see if my DS3 needs it. I'll take images full frame with all three of my lenses, plus the 1.4 extender. I suppose it would be some sort of line chart?

BTW the Samsung box is from a new color laser printer. It's the 610ND. Color prints on plain paper are immaculate--for a laser. I got it because I wanted to print color on things that ink jets don't do well with, and create tear sheets whenever I want--in color--and printable on plain paper ON BOTH SIDES. Yes, it comes with full duplex printing capability.

The color accuracy using Adobe 1998, with no color calibration in printer, was very accurate. Almost unbelievably so. Plus you can adjust color accuracy in printer software.  I know I could have gotten a ink jet, but this printer has a 299.00US price point, and it's pennys compared to an ink jet of the same quality in cost per page. Plus, it's text is superior. So anyway, just for any of you who were wondering. It also DOES print at 21+ PPM in both color and B&W. Color lasers have come a long way.
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Doug

follow the link for easy focus adjustment. Only one of my lenses needs it (the 85 1.

Mike

[a href=\"http://openphotographyforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4708]http://openphotographyforums.com/forums/sh...read.php?t=4708[/url]

[dwdallam]

Doug

follow the link for easy focus adjustment. Only one of my lenses needs it (the 85 1.

Mike

http://openphotographyforums.com/forums/sh...read.php?t=4708
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=193073\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Ah thanks much.

Here is an image I took today. All information is in text on the image. I'm impressed and excited. This camera is amazing.

Image is taken right of of RAW with no auto adjustments and no post sharpening. Just right out of the camera, open in PS, 100% crop, save as jpg.

The shutter speed should have read 1/125 not 1/25.

[sojournerphoto]

Ah thanks much.

Here is an image I took today. All information is in text on the image. I'm impressed and excited. This camera is amazing.

Image is taken right of of RAW with no auto adjustments and no post sharpening. Just right out of the camera, open in PS, 100% crop, save as jpg.

The shutter speed should have read 1/125 not 1/25.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=193074\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Now you just need to update the praise thread!!

glad you like it

Mike

[woof75]

Ah thanks much.

Here is an image I took today. All information is in text on the image. I'm impressed and excited. This camera is amazing.

Image is taken right of of RAW with no auto adjustments and no post sharpening. Just right out of the camera, open in PS, 100% crop, save as jpg.

The shutter speed should have read 1/125 not 1/25.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=193074\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

No part of that image is sharp.

[dwdallam]

No part of that image is sharp.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=193164\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

It was hand held w/o regard for holding the camera and lens steady, in a garage, under poor light, with the light in the back of the object, and anything else you want to add in that was or could be wrong with a shot. In other words, it was a completely swing, snapshot at about 5 feet. The fact I could do even that well in that situation was quite impressive.

However, I will check the focus on all my lenses since you pointed that fact out, since at 1/125 and IS is should have been fairly sharp, evne though the shutter was somewhat slow for that shot and focal length.

[dwdallam]

Doug

follow the link for easy focus adjustment. Only one of my lenses needs it (the 85 1.

Mike

http://openphotographyforums.com/forums/sh...read.php?t=4708
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=193073\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Very interesting. I seriously feel as if I'm living in the Twilight Zone.

Just so I have it right, he's saying to focus on the focus target on an LCD screen in LiveView mode. When you see the moire pattern maximized, you have archived perfect focus when viewed on the camera's LCD using LiveView at maximim magnification.

Is that right?

[Josh-H]

Very interesting. I seriously feel as if I'm living in the Twilight Zone.

Just so I have it right, he's saying to focus on the focus target on an LCD screen in LiveView mode. When you see the moire pattern maximized, you have archived perfect focus when viewed on the camera's LCD using LiveView at maximim magnification.

Is that right?
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=193259\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

You got it.

I used this method on all my lens's with my 1DS MKIII. All but one of them were spot on. Only my 50mm F1.2L needed a little bit of back focus corrected.

I was previously using a test target - but the moire pattern is better and makes it easier to make adjustments.

[sojournerphoto]

You got it.

I used this method on all my lens's with my 1DS MKIII. All but one of them were spot on. Only my 50mm F1.2L needed a little bit of back focus corrected.

I was previously using a test target - but the moire pattern is better and makes it easier to make adjustments.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=193267\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Exactly, you might need to move the camera slightly forward or back in order to obtain the clearest pattern as it depends on the interference (and therefore size of image) between the screens' subpixels. It is surprisingly sensitive to focus (as it would need to be). You might also want to check that your lenses reach the same focus point from either extreme of focus or from close to correct focus also.

All mylenses were spot on apart from my 85 1.8 which needs a back adjustment of 5. I subsequently had a play with changing the adjustment on the 85 and the difference in focus accuracy can be seen consistently over a few shots quite easily. Another interesting point for me was that the 50 1.4 delivered a very strong and clear moire pattern wide open, suggesting that it's actually much sharper than is commonly thought. It also seems to perform better in real life on the 1Ds3 than the 5D, not that I was disappointed before.

Mike

[dwdallam]

One other thing I omitted last night:

Shoot at the lens' maximum focal length and aperture?

[sojournerphoto]

One other thing I omitted last night:

Shoot at the lens' maximum focal length and aperture?
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=193338\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Yes, although you don't even need to shoot so unless you force stop down you'll already be at max aperture. Zooms may vary over the range of focal lengths, but (obviously) the impact is greater at longer lengths. Also the adjustment may vary at different shooting distancess, so ideally you want a distance that fits your normal shooting style - which may prove impossible

Mike

[dwdallam]

Have you gone into the menu and cleared all camera settings?  Just a thought.

Chris Lawery
Sales Manager
chris@captureintegration.com
Capture Integration, Phase One Dealer of the Year

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[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=192943\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

I can't find where I posted my solution, so let me post it here for others:

I did what Chris said--reset and clear all camera settings. Then I upgraded to the newest firmware. Everything is great.