digital artifacts

[duraace]

I'm looking for an opinion on whether there are any digital artifacts in the two linked photos below? The first was rejected by iStockphoto (exported sRGB from Lightroom), and the second was redone with minimal editing and exported AdobeRGB (not submitted yet).  Neither was resized.  It was taken from a D300 85mm f1.4 lens at ISO 200.

Submitted image #1: http://download-v5.streamload.com/ZR2CFJP6...jpg?action=save

Improved image#2: http://download-v5.streamload.com/m5plRVN5...jpg?action=save

[Jonathan Wienke]

The problem is your lens and shooting technique, not the PS work. The image has prominent color fringing around all of the highlights on the glass, and nothing is really in focus. It looks like you shot handheld with too low a shutter speed; 1/60 with a 127mm equivalent focal length is pretty iffy handheld, and as a result, nothing is sharp anywhere in the photo. Trash it and reshoot with a tripod, and a lens that can handle specular highlights with less fringing.

[duraace]

The problem is your lens and shooting technique, not the PS work. The image has prominent color fringing around all of the highlights on the glass, and nothing is really in focus. It looks like you shot handheld with too low a shutter speed; 1/60 with a 127mm equivalent focal length is pretty iffy handheld, and as a result, nothing is sharp anywhere in the photo. Trash it and reshoot with a tripod, and a lens that can handle specular highlights with less fringing.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=186209\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Thanks for the feedback.  The specs are 1/60 85mm f1.4.  I'll try again at a higher speed and maybe f2.8 and attempt to keep native ISO.  The idea was to benefit from the bokeh, a specialty of this lens, but your're right, 1/60 is far too low.

[Jonathan Wienke]

Stopping down a little will probably reduce the fringing around the highlights. You might want to try shooting with a range of apertures to find the best bokeh/DOF-fringing tradeoff.

[duraace]

Stopping down a little will probably reduce the fringing around the highlights. You might want to try shooting with a range of apertures to find the best bokeh/DOF-fringing tradeoff.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=186216\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Do you have a range suggestion for the Nikor 85mm f1.4?  I want take advantage of natural lighting so there's a limit on how high I can go.  I guess I could just keep increasing it until the auto ISO kicks in.  This place get a lot of light coming in, so shouldn't be a problem. I've since increased the minimum shutter in aperture priority to 1/80, but probably is still too low for hand held with this lens.  I'll have to go back with a tripod and get permission to take the shot.

[Jonathan Wienke]

I shoot Canon, so I don't really know your lens, but I'd use a tripod, and try a range from f/1.4 - 5.6, bracketing +- 2-3 stops to HDR blend the images in PS. A HDR blend tuned to minimize noise may reduce the fringing around the specular highlights on the glass if you do the actual blend manually.

[bob mccarthy]

An 85mm on a 1.5 crop camera is the equivalent of what Jon said.

One must practice hand holding even with plenty of shutter speed. In this case you don't have a chance (we'll sometimes one does get lucky). Practice breath control, soft releasing the shutter.

Your camera has super low noise characteristics, bump the ISO up to 800 if you must. If a tripod won't work, use a monopod.

Your just killing the wonderful IQ of the camera and lens. I own the 85/1.4. It's not the lens bro, nor the camera.

Bob

[duraace]

An 85mm on a 1.5 crop camera is the equivalent of what Jon said.

One must practice hand holding even with plenty of shutter speed. In this case you don't have a chance (we'll sometimes one does get lucky). Practice breath control, soft releasing the shutter.

Your camera has super low noise characteristics, bump the ISO up to 800 if you must. If a tripod won't work, use a monopod.

Your just killing the wonderful IQ of the camera and lens. I own the 85/1.4. It's not the lens bro, nor the camera.

Bob
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=186229\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Yes I've clued into that since this thread began.  I'm going back with a tripod to get it right.  BTW  What would you consider a minimal shutter speed with this lens, just out of curiosity?
btw I took this shot on spec, and liked it by accident once I got it into software.  I hadn't considered the setup as being substandard, up until now.

[bob mccarthy]

Yes I've clued into that since this thread began.  I'm going back with a tripod to get it right.  BTW  What would you consider a minimal shutter speed with this lens, just out of curiosity?
btw I took this shot on spec, and liked it by accident once I got it into software.  I hadn't considered the setup as being substandard, up until now.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=186249\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

With a sturdy tripod, the camera will be solid (be sure to use a cable release), the subject movement becomes all important. Practice to find pauses in the action, a 1/30 give or take is a starting point, faster is better. With the latest generation camera like you have, take some in ISO and not worry about base iso. Aperture is more about dof than anything else. If you like the look of the shot wide open, use it, the lens will perform, but dof is razor thin. Try a number of f-stops. Chimp a bit, check your histogram to make sure your not blowing out the highlights.

Nice thing about a digital camera, is no film cost, try many shots to catch the moment.

Subject motion is your challenge.

Good luck,

bob

[duraace]

With a sturdy tripod, the camera will be solid (be sure to use a cable release), the subject movement becomes all important. Practice to find pauses in the action, a 1/30 give or take is a starting point, faster is better. With the latest generation camera like you have, take some in ISO and not worry about base iso. Aperture is more about dof than anything else. If you like the look of the shot wide open, use it, the lens will perform, but dof is razor thin. Try a number of f-stops. Chimp a bit, check your histogram to make sure your not blowing out the highlights.

Nice thing about a digital camera, is no film cost, try many shots to catch the moment.

Subject motion is your challenge.

Good luck,

bob
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=186261\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Thanks Bob.  Next time I check in here will be with the, hopefully, new and improved shot. I'll try around f2.2 to f2.8, maybe higher, because it results in a sharper image than wide open f1.4. Looking for good bokeh behind to make the cookie jars stand out in front.

[Jonathan Wienke]

Looking for good bokeh behind to make the cookie jars stand out in front.

Getting the cookie jars in sharper focus will help them stand out more. Another benefit of a multi-exposure blend will be the ability to capture the text on the jar labels with better contrast.

[bob mccarthy]

Thanks Bob.  Next time I check in here will be with the, hopefully, new and improved shot. I'll try around f2.2 to f2.8, maybe higher, because it results in a sharper image than wide open f1.4. Looking for good bokeh behind to make the cookie jars stand out in front.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=186278\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

A couple of ideas

the counter on the left side is OAF and pretty dominate, did you try a composition moving a bit to the right. The cappuccino machine a little OAF is a nice effect.

moving right, would put the jars more in the plane of focus and give more definition to the labeling

is the employee important to you? If so HRD blending is going to be a touch more challenging, the individual would have to be static on all shots, though it would recover detail on the shelves. The histogram has a tall spike on the right hand side, this is blown out pixels.

If all the jars are to be sharp and the background blurry, find an f-stop that covers all three jars and is still wide open enough to soften background. Place the plane of focus (roughly) in the middle of the depth of the jars. Try multiple stops and multiple focus points to get the effect you want. Use manual focus, not autofocus.

Watch your blinkies. Only on specular highlights. Your camera has excellent noise characteristics, and you can recover shadows better than recovering blown out highlights. This shot is too hot, dial in some (-) compensation.

Have fun,

Hope this gives you some ideas,

Bob

[duraace]

A couple of ideas

the counter on the left side is OAF and pretty dominate, did you try a composition moving a bit to the right. The cappuccino machine a little OAF is a nice effect.

moving right, would put the jars more in the plane of focus and give more definition to the labeling

is the employee important to you? If so HRD blending is going to be a touch more challenging, the individual would have to be static on all shots, though it would recover detail on the shelves. The histogram has a tall spike on the right hand side, this is blown out pixels.

If all the jars are to be sharp and the background blurry, find an f-stop that covers all three jars and is still wide open enough to soften background. Place the plane of focus (roughly) in the middle of the depth of the jars. Try multiple stops and multiple focus points to get the effect you want. Use manual focus, not autofocus.

Watch your blinkies. Only on specular highlights. Your camera has excellent noise characteristics, and you can recover shadows better than recovering blown out highlights. This shot is too hot, dial in some (-) compensation.

Have fun,

Hope this gives you some ideas,

Bob
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=186494\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

It does. Thanks. Re: hdr blend. What do you think about applying exposure range to copies of the same image for blending? That would make moving subjects not matter.

[bob mccarthy]

It does. Thanks. Re: hdr blend. What do you think about applying exposure range to copies of the same image for blending? That would make moving subjects not matter.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=186521\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

I've not tried that, but I use a D2x which is a narrower DR camera compared to the new D3/D300. I understand it works with the D3 due to the very low noise characteristics of the sensor (hidden data ??). You can always try.

I can't imagine it working as well as real hdr though. Shadows might get a bit noisy.

I use auto bracketing. Put the lens cap on between series for a blank shot to prevent confusion if you try this approach.

Your camera does roughly 9 stops of native DR, 2 better than mine from the test I saw. HDR may not be necessary with your camera. Most HDR shots when done to excess look artificial to me.

bob

[duraace]

I've not tried that, but I use a D2x which is a narrower DR camera compared to the new D3/D300. I understand it works with the D3 due to the very low noise characteristics of the sensor (hidden data ??). You can always try.

I can't imagine it working as well as real hdr though. Shadows might get a bit noisy.

I use auto bracketing. Put the lens cap on between series for a blank shot to prevent confusion if you try this approach.

Your camera does roughly 9 stops of native DR, 2 better than mine from the test I saw. HDR may not be necessary with your camera. Most HDR shots when done to excess look artificial to me.

bob
[{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Had an opportunity to re-shoot today.  Using the tripod altered the viewing angle from the original, but looks right away to be a better shot.  I couldn't stop down any more the f2.8 without losing too much of the bokeh behind.  The jars are in better focus, but go out of focus the further down the line you go.  That could be OK from a composition pov.  Have not tried HDR version yet, but I don't think it's needed.  There was more light so in Aperture priority the shutter was higher and the ISO stayed at 200.  I have a very steady carbon tripod.  What do you think?  

[a href=\"http://download-v5.streamload.com/A9un4JYL~eYwv~Wwi8~Tflq~_hAv6hHgqGpX/duraace/FileManager/CookieJars_Improved-2.jpg?action=save]http://download-v5.streamload.com/A9un4JYL...jpg?action=save[/url]

[bob mccarthy]

Had an opportunity to re-shoot today.  Using the tripod altered the viewing angle from the original, but looks right away to be a better shot.  I couldn't stop down any more the f2.8 without losing too much of the bokeh behind.  The jars are in better focus, but go out of focus the further down the line you go.  That could be OK from a composition pov.  Have not tried HDR version yet, but I don't think it's needed.  There was more light so in Aperture priority the shutter was higher and the ISO stayed at 200.  I have a very steady carbon tripod.  What do you think? 

http://download-v5.streamload.com/A9un4JYL...jpg?action=save
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=186574\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

The way to get better jars is to focus on the 3rd jar, not the first. override autofocus to nail double chocolate label. You are picking up focus forward of first jar loosing the further back jars. Histogram looks very good.

A real improvement over the first one. The best critic is yourself. Don't quit until your totally happy with your images.

good shooting,

Bob

[duraace]

The way to get better jars is to focus on the 3rd jar, not the first. override autofocus to nail double chocolate label. You are picking up focus forward of first jar loosing the further back jars. Histogram looks very good.

A real improvement over the first one. The best critic is yourself. Don't quit until your totally happy with your images.

good shooting,

Bob
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=186608\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Intrestingly, I believe I focused on the second jar. Compositionally, I'm not quite happy with this one. I think the guy in the background should have been to the left of the jars.

[duraace]

I've been playing with Lightroom 2.0 beta new localized edits on this Jars photo. This is a huge improvement to LR!  Here's the improvements.

http://download-v5.streamload.com/khmKN6gZ...jpg?action=save