VR (Vibration Reduction) and Monopod

[jimcamel]

On a recent safari, amongst other things, I took a D200 with a monopod and the Nikon 70-200 VR F2.8 outfitted with the Nikon 2.0 teleconverter.  I had read that the recommendation is to keep VR OFF when using a tripod and ON when using a monopod.  I kept it on most of the time and despite this I have a lot of images that are disappointingly softer than I would like.  On examination, some of them seem to exhibit the 'shadow' effect that is rumoured to occur when using a VR lens with a tripod.  Shutter speeds were on the slow side - but generally 1/30 or faster so I thought that would be okay given the setup (as 1/30 is roughly within 3 stops of the 1-over-Focal len rule).  My technique was generally to place my left hand on top of the lens to steady it while shooting; depress the shutter half way; compose and fire (might take 1-3 seconds except when shooting continuously).  At the time, the images looked well-focussed and solid in the viewfinder.

So, my question is ... just what technique works best when using such a setup with VR.  I'd appreciate the suggestions and then I can go practice some more ......  but perhaps ahead of time and not after leaving for my next trip    

Some of my hand-held images were better.  There must be a good technique for this ... I appreciate that Nikon is selling the new 500/600 F4 lenses which employ VR - yet nobody can hand-hold these babies (practically) so their use on a mono or tripod must be anticipated by the lens-VR design.

jc

[DarkPenguin]

I don't know.  But the problem I have with a monopod is that I'm as likely to move forward and back with it as I am side to side.  So I tend to move the focus point forward and back and VR (or IS in my case) can do nothing with this.

If I'm seen carrying a monopod it is only because I'm using it as a substitute for a korean riot baton.

[Recked]

LOL

[jimcamel]

LOL
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=184162\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

In this context, does "LOL" stand for

Lots of luck

Lots of Love, or

Lots of Laughs

jc

[Richowens]

Recked was Laughing Out Loud (LOL) at the Dark One's comment.

 Just internet speak.

 Rich

 Edit for typo, fingers stiff today.

[GregW]

The 2.0 TC does produce soft results, even under ideal conditions.  That's been my experience anyway.  The 1.7 and 1.4 are actually not bad.

I've always left VR off when using a monopod. Instead of using your arm, you could also a bean bag which will be more stable.  Google Nikonians, the have a very comprehensive illustrated guide to monopod use.  

Since the D3 and to a lesser extent the D300 came along I've really myself becoming lazy and upping the ISO rather than resort to using a monopod.  Far be it form me to spend your money but with a lot of shooting out of vehicles etc I could imagine the D3 would be just the ticket if you plan future safari vacations.

[stever]

i think your shutter speeds were too slow - at 200 with 1.4x you've got a 600mm equivalent which with VR should work well at 1/150 (1/80 with multiple shots choosing the best) - for a stationary subject

in general, i've found that it's best to accept a little high ISO noise at 800 or 1600 and correct in Lightroom than open up the lens too far and/or use too slow a shutter speed.

my experience is with Canon, but i don't think there is much difference between the Nikon and Canon 70-200.  the 70-200 with 2x is not as sharp as the 100-400 (Nikon 70-400) .  in general, zooms are not too happy with extenders

i've never had an issue with IS (VR) on a monopod and Canon specifically says that it should work (and i really don't think there's much difference in technology)

the other issue is aperture - the 70-200 may be sharp wide open, but with the extender it probably needs to be down one stop for best results

[NikosR]

I think the previous posters got it mostly right. I think you're seeing a combination of camera shake induced fuzziness and lens softness. You have to really scrutinise the pictures looking at the shutter speed / f.l. used to form an opinion about which is the prevailing trait in each one.

Additionally, one cannot exclude minor focusing errors with the slowish AF resuting from the lens+TC combo especially under not so bright conditions.

Shooting the 70-200 at max. focal length, max aperture with the TC20E is not a good idea anyway. If you want light the 80-400 is a much better proposition even with its slow AF.

Another idea is to back off your focal length (maybe using the 1.4 or 1.7 TC) and crop a bit more.

For stabilising the lens a beanbag or similar support is a better idea. Also, with the D200, up your ISO up to 800 to try and use shutter speeds higher than 1/60 at these long focal lengths.

Keep your VR on at speeds lower than 1/500 or so when using either a bean bag or a monopod.

Machine-gunning a sequence to select the best photo in post is also a good recommendation in such iffy situations.

Having said all this, the best lens for a safari IMO is the 200-400 lens. There's a reason people are paying lots of money for super teles... If you expect to regularly shoot under similar conditions, invest in that lens before upgrading your camera. If you upgrade to a D300 you will be gaining max 1 stop in terms of noise (and probably nothing that you cannot handle with the D200 and some post-processing). If you go the D3 way you will find yourself even more strained for reach and maybe short of cash to get a decent lens