Correct exposure with MFDB-theory?

[marcmccalmont]

I just started using a P30/645AFD II a couple of months ago and coming from a 5D this is what I've learned/my technique.
1. Let the camera calculate the exposure and take a first shot
2. Review the histogram
3. ETTR on the second shot (usually +.7)
4. Convert the raw, preserving highlights and shadows
5. If the scenes dynamic range is less than that of the cameras (typical) it will look a bit washed out so in PS I fix it with a "hockey stick" shaped curve to compress the shadows (where the extra DR is) and increase the contrast.
Hope this helps
Marc

[rogerxnz]

"hockey stick" shaped curve
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=176310\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Thanks, Marc.  I would like to confirm what you mean by "hockey stick shaped curve."  I recall a hockey stick is like a [good behaviour] tick.  Is that the shape you mean?  Your curve starts a bit above the bottom of the grid, goes down to the bottom and then goes up to the top of the grid.

I guess, the "business end" of the stick is on the left of the "shaft/handle"?

Or have I misunderstood?

[marcmccalmont]

Thanks, Marc.  I would like to confirm what you mean by "hockey stick shaped curve."  I recall a hockey stick is like a [good behaviour] tick.  Is that the shape you mean?  Your curve starts a bit above the bottom of the grid, goes down to the bottom and then goes up to the top of the grid.

I guess, the "business end" of the stick is on the left of the "shaft/handle"?

Or have I misunderstood?
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=177188\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

In photoshop the curve is as follows
4 points in the curve described as input/output
0/0, 21/4, 35/17, 255/255
looks like a hocky stick pointed to the left
Marc

PS if it is a high DR scene and you need the shadow detail don't apply the curve, but if it is a normal daylight scene (or less DR) this will compress the shadows and increase the mid tone contrast so the image doesn't look so washed out.