Topic: Focus is WAY to Critical with Medium format!!! (Read 25140 times)

shelby_lewis · « **Reply #40 on:** February 12, 2008, 12:59:15 pm »

Snook... have your maxwell screen checked. I've read (will try to find the links) in several places where the after market screens may need calibration. I'd bet yours has been, but never hurts to check.

If your focus rate is ALWAYS inconsistent, that seems more like an equip prob than a photog prob.

eronald · « **Reply #41 on:** February 12, 2008, 05:48:19 pm »

Snook,
Do a focus check, and calibrate the screen position, I think it's user-adjustable on the RZ.
However, be aware that with digital even @F11, in-focus belly often means OOF eyes.

Edmund

Quote

No need to have steady hands as I am shooting on a tripod in studio.
I have the same problem that my modeling lights are not that bright. 250W and I have some 500 watts also but they get pretty hot.
I just find it strange that sometimes when RZ is on tripod and it is flat to the subject and I focus on the belly or waist that the eyes can be so OOF at F11.
Also I do not have as much trouble with the AFDII as they are AF lens except for the Macro which I am still trying to figure out.. weird how the center spot kind of DIstorts the face or eyes when you are trying to focus.. Like they get a balloon effect until in focus, if that makes sense.
I have a Bill maxell Focusing screen... (sp?) and it is kind of matte in my RZII.
I think I might try out some Split screen screens.
Can anybody suggest which one I should try out? Or which one NOT to buy...:+}
Seen some on e-bay relatively cheap so I would like to at least try them out.
Also I do not think that measuring distance like cinema guys would work for people shot's as if they move ever so slightly they will be OOF.
Also does anybody have any links where someone could learn a little about focusing by the numbers on the side of the lens? (RZ) mainly?
I really appreciate your help as usually...
Thanks guys
Snook
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David WM · « **Reply #42 on:** February 12, 2008, 06:32:31 pm »

Snook

The may be a bit simple and I apologise if you think it is too basic, but its something that tripped me up when I had an SLRn. I accidentally bumped the diopter adjustment without realising it and was thinking I needed to go get my eyes checked because nothing was sharp. If its just a bit out it makes focus hard. I don't have an RZ anymore and I don't remember how easy it might be to do that.
regards,
David

AndreNapier · « **Reply #43 on:** February 12, 2008, 07:21:50 pm »

In regards to screen on Rz I have purchased all of them. Each one of them requires adjustment with digital backs. My Beatty Brightscreen was 7' off from 25' distance. Maxwell screen was 5' off on the same distance. The difference between Mamiya factory screen was not that drastic and fell in 12 inches +- distance. Easy to adjust but a definite must with all of them. Mamiya sells special screwdriver to make this process painless.
With my personal experience Mamiya split image screen is the best way to go.
Both Maxwell and Beatty provide much brighter screens however they also add grain which make it extremely difficult to see the eye lashes on a full body shots.
Just my opinion, but I have them all sitting in the studio.
Andre

snickgrr · « **Reply #44 on:** February 12, 2008, 07:38:08 pm »

Andre,
Where is would the information be about adjusting the screen in the Mamiya? Mine is out with the A75. Would love to be able to tweak it into place.
Thanks

Snook · « **Reply #45 on:** February 12, 2008, 07:42:55 pm »

Quote

In regards to screen on Rz I have purchased all of them. Each one of them requires adjustment with digital backs. My Beatty Brightscreen was 7' off from 25' distance. Maxwell screen was 5' off on the same distance. The difference between Mamiya factory screen was not that drastic and fell in 12 inches +- distance. Easy to adjust but a definite must with all of them. Mamiya sells special screwdriver to make this process painless.
With my personal experience Mamiya split image screen is the best way to go.
Both Maxwell and Beatty provide much brighter screens however they also add grain which make it extremely difficult to see the eye lashes on a full body shots.
Just my opinion, but I have them all sitting in the studio.
Andre
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Andre your tlking about the RZ right?
And Do let us know if you have some link or more information on how to tweak it..:+}
Thanks for all the good info..
Snook

klane · « **Reply #46 on:** February 12, 2008, 08:30:53 pm »

Quote

Andre your tlking about the RZ right?
And Do let us know if you have some link or more information on how to tweak it..:+}
Thanks for all the good info..
Snook
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Im adding an rz67 to my current line up this week Id like to know how to precisely adjust the screen as well.

AndreNapier · « **Reply #47 on:** February 12, 2008, 11:21:58 pm »

Guys,
Take off the WLF and gently remove the screen. You will see three screws that the screen was sitting on. They are adjustable. Clockwise lower the screw and counter clockwise lifts it up. You need a special screwdriver available from Mamiya Parts Center for $70. Alternatively you can buy a $3 one from Home Depot and have a natch machined in the center.
Mamiya use a special ground glass for adjustment however it never worked perfectly for me afterwards.
My approach is very simple. I put my Rz on a very steady studio stand and tether to computer.
I do it with 110mm lens as it works the best. I focus the lens at minimum focusing distance. On a little table a place piece of plywood with nailed diagonal line of 10 nails of different color, spaced about 1/4 inch apart. I focus in the center of the nails and make and image. I examine the picture and adjust the screen until the nail I focus on is the one in focus in the image.
Once I have it, it will translate to perfect focus on any distance with any Mamiya lens.
It takes me about 15 minutes to perfectly adjust a switch to a new screen.
Andre

Henry Goh · « **Reply #48 on:** February 12, 2008, 11:39:48 pm »

Quote

Guys,
Take off the WLF and gently remove the screen. You will see three screws that the screen was sitting on. They are adjustable. Clockwise lower the screw and counter clockwise lifts it up. You need a special screwdriver available from Mamiya Parts Center for $70. Alternatively you can buy a $3 one from Home Depot and have a natch machined in the center.
Mamiya use a special ground glass for adjustment however it never worked perfectly for me afterwards.
My approach is very simple. I put my Rz on a very steady studio stand and tether to computer.
I do it with 110mm lens as it works the best. I focus the lens at minimum focusing distance. On a little table a place piece of plywood with nailed diagonal line of 10 nails of different color, spaced about 1/4 inch apart. I focus in the center of the nails and make and image. I examine the picture and adjust the screen until the nail I focus on is the one in focus in the image.
Once I have it, it will translate to perfect focus on any distance with any Mamiya lens.
It takes me about 15 minutes to perfectly adjust a switch to a new screen.
Andre
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=174429\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Andre you are very generous. Thank you for sharing this.

klane · « **Reply #49 on:** February 12, 2008, 11:59:42 pm »

Quote

Andre you are very generous. Thank you for sharing this.
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I second this, great info.

Author Topic: Focus is WAY to Critical with Medium format!!! (Read 25140 times)

Snook