Flash For Flattering Female Fill Flash

[nmccalip]

I shoot models (waist-deep) in the ocean under cloudy/stormy conditions.  Often with the sun directly overhead or with the models sometimes back-lit.  I keep my equipement in various waterproof housings and (as yet) have been reluctant to add bulk (a flash) inside my housings.  And while the water usually supplies a nice degree of fill, I am finding I need more fill for the areas below the eyes.  And I can't use an assistant with a reflector or photoshop.

Please advise me as to a flash that I could add to my Canon 40d.  With the least bulk possible I need something that is idiot proof, VERY quick to recharge, and provides flattering, soft, and mild fill flash.  Hopefully a flash that has or can take a diffuser.  I know one flash won't do all this perfect but I could use suggestions.

Keep in mind the parameters of my project require that I shoot a quick documentary style, at those times of day & under those conditions listed above.

I have even entertained, for the purpose of creating a shadowless fill, the idea of using the canon macro RING light.  I know very little about using anything other than available light!

Thanks for your time, I appreciate your expertise.

[airchinapilot]

I recommend you browse the Strobist.com blog and its associated Flickr group.

Generally, it's a group devoted to off-camera flash (or light but mostly flash) that can be easily carried. It is run by a Baltimore Sun photographer named David Hobby who advocates using equipment that you can easily pack as a photo journalist. The same principles help you do more with less.

What you will probably see suggested is the following:

-- inexpensive new or used flash units from a variety of manufacturers (once you get into it you will start adding more flashes) that has power settings that can be set manually
-- a way to trigger it off camera such as with a Pocket Wizard, Elinchrom Skyport at the expensive range or a cheap (but shoddily made) radio frequency trigger commonly available on eBay.
-- light stands, clamps, whatever holds the flashes up in proper position
-- any number of different gobo schemes (light modifiers), umbrellas, diffusers
-- lots of DIY solutions vs bought solutions. But the same principles apply no matter how they are arrived at.

Since you said you like to use the ambient light such as setting sun, you should look up the Strobist tutorial on cross-lighting.

If you have money to burn, then you can go for ETTL flashes such as the 580ex, 430ex or Sunpak Super DG 500. Quantum has another new one. The advantage of ETTL is that it automatically dials in its own power settings based upon your camera's settings.

Canon has its own infrared wireless solution STE-2. I've never used it but some criticize it for being interfered with by sunlight and other light sources.

There is a good Canon-specific page on flash photography that will give you the basics as well. Look up photo notes and flash on google.

On ring-flashes you should be note that 90% of the ring flashes out there are for macro use only and if you want to use them for portraits, you must settle for using them as closeup shots (up to head shots). For torso or wider shots, you must specifically look for ring flashes for portrait use. They are much larger in diameter and have higher output than macro flashes. Alien Bees, Profoto,  offer some. For such a specific look, many photographers try to make their own. I am doing one right now too.

[fike]

The comments above are all very thorough and relevant, but a simpler approach is to get a decent flash like a canon 420c and use a stofen omni-bounce.  I find that they soften the light substantially making for a much less harsh image.  Others suggest the same thing can be acheived by placing all sorts of stuff over your flash, like nylons for example.  The Stofen Omni-bounce is a cheap piece of whiteish plastic that fits over the flash--though they charge $15 for them.  What a ripoff, but it works.

[Hank]

The choice of flash and any kind of modifier is going to depend entirely on your shooting distance and the desired level of fill-  especially if recycle rate is a concern.

What lens are you using and how far are you shooting from?

You're also going to be getting catch lights in the models' eyes and potentially off any ripples in the water surface.  Edit them out or leave them in-  your choice.  But your choice of modifiers will determine the shape of the catch lights, if that's a factor for you.

And no, a ring light isn't going to cut it unless you are shooting from really close.  They don't have the GN and consequently the range of most other units.  They'll also give you really wierd catch lights.

[Morgan_Moore]

What housing do you use

Sound like it might be a uwe marine soft housing

If it is a hard housing like sea and sea or aquateck then you are going to have to get a proprietry flashgun

These are neither fast recycling or flattering

Basically the bigger the flash - the softer the light and the bigger the flash the more cumbersome to hold/move with

Everything is pulling in different directions.

( assuming you have Ewa marine bag..)

First

If you set the flash right the light should not be too unflattering with a regulaer flash gun mounted atop of the camera

Second

If you want to get more complex I would consider getting a pocket wizard into your housing and then maybe getting a flash or two and a quantum battery into a pelicase with a translucent window fabricated into the side - a kind of waterproof soft box

You are most likely to need an assistant to hold this for you

p.s. most people I know who have ewa marine bags have ended up with wet cameras
p.p.s pocket wizards dont transmit under water as far as I can tell

SMM

[Rob C]

Basically, you need to do one of two things: grow a third and, better, fourth arm; hire an assistant. When you have made your choice of the two options, use a reflector, and I would suggest using the white rather than the golden side.

Flash is never an easy option and its light, unless you care to fight the breeze with an umbrella, is seldom particularly flattering.

Much of the above explains why glamour and fashion photographers often get out of bed before sunrise, with or without the ten-grand incentive... its about the magic hour.

Having made the above point, don´t forget that there is also a current school of photography where overflashed beach shots of girls is flavour of the photographer´s month. You might know the sort of stuff: daylight shots that look like they were taken at night. Very creative.

Rob C

[woffles]

No offense to Fike but outdoors all an omnibounce does is waste light.  It basically simulates a bare bulb indoors and makes the light softer by sending it all around the room you are shooting in.  Since it doesn't make the light any bigger it doesn't make it any softer, it just diffuses it.  Bigger or closer equals softer for lighting.

You could probably get away with a flash on a weighted light stand doing what you are doing, unless the waves are too much.  This would let you get the light up and away from the camera to give it a more natural look.  I use a 580 with pocket wizards and either umbrellas, a small softbox, lumiquest pocket bounce, better bounce card (DIY), or bare flash.  There are cheaper ebay radio slaves that you can get also if you don't want to shell out on PWs.  Gels will also come in handy in this kind of setup to get nice gold tones of color out of the flash if you want to warm it up a little.  Like it was said above, go to strobist.com and read up on different setups available to make and buy.

[Rob C]

woffles

Have you never noticed the side-effect of using a gold reflector in the ocean? Have you actually used such a thing in that situation?

What you will notice, on occasion, which makes it a no-no for me, is that the combination of all that delightfully blue UV that´s bouncing around off the water combines with the gold to turn your model a delicate shade of green. Interesting stuff, but not generally thought a positive addition to the situation.

Rob C

[Hank]

If I was given your assignment, I'd belay the strobe altogether and hire an assistant to stand by with a good sized relfector- white or silver, your pick depending on the details.  With that overhead sun it will work very well for filling faces, and more if the reflector is large enough or close enough.  No wires or electricity around salt water.  No bulk and loss of mobility for you.  

And if you want silver, go to the hardware store and buy some of that silvered bubble wrap intended for insulation.  It's waterproof and stiff enough to use even in mild breezes.  And it's cheap.  $10 buys you enough for whole body illumination from about 15 feet.  

Not theory.  We're on land rather than water, but we use the stuff all the time on location shoots.  If it didn't last so long, we'd probably buy it by the roll.  When not needed it's ideal padding inside your kits and duffles.  Not bad for a pillow when rolled up, too.

[Rob C]

If I was given your assignment, I'd belay the strobe altogether and hire an assistant to stand by with a good sized relfector- white or silver, your pick depending on the details.  With that overhead sun it will work very well for filling faces, and more if the reflector is large enough or close enough.  No wires or electricity around salt water.  No bulk and loss of mobility for you. 

And if you want silver, go to the hardware store and buy some of that silvered bubble wrap intended for insulation.  It's waterproof and stiff enough to use even in mild breezes.  And it's cheap.  $10 buys you enough for whole body illumination from about 15 feet. 

Not theory.  We're on land rather than water, but we use the stuff all the time on location shoots.  If it didn't last so long, we'd probably buy it by the roll.  When not needed it's ideal padding inside your kits and duffles.  Not bad for a pillow when rolled up, too.
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As usual, a good, pragmatic reply based on experience.

Rob C

[fike]

No offense to Fike but outdoors all an omnibounce does is waste light.  It basically simulates a bare bulb indoors and makes the light softer by sending it all around the room you are shooting in.  Since it doesn't make the light any bigger it doesn't make it any softer, it just diffuses it.  Bigger or closer equals softer for lighting.

You could probably get away with a flash on a weighted light stand doing what you are doing, unless the waves are too much.  This would let you get the light up and away from the camera to give it a more natural look.  I use a 580 with pocket wizards and either umbrellas, a small softbox, lumiquest pocket bounce, better bounce card (DIY), or bare flash.  There are cheaper ebay radio slaves that you can get also if you don't want to shell out on PWs.  Gels will also come in handy in this kind of setup to get nice gold tones of color out of the flash if you want to warm it up a little.  Like it was said above, go to strobist.com and read up on different setups available to make and buy.
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Certainly range is poor with a cheap diffuser like that, but I have found the light to be far less harsh.  I have used it with a short cable to the flash mounted on a second tripod.  Worked okay.  I certainly would not consider myself a flash or lighting expert....I tend to prefer natural light with only the slightest fill flash to bring out the shadows.  For that, generally a diffuser can work reasonably well.

[EricWHiss]

I think what you want is the q39 softbox  - its a portable 12x16 softbox costs like $40 and you'll need a ring and handle.  I use mine a lot for model shoots on location - actually have two of them.  You can get pocketwizards or the canon st-2 to get it off camera (or even one of the off shoe cords) and hold the camera in one hand and the flash in the other.    When you are not in the water you can put it on a light stand.   They are very light and very sturdy.    If you have an assistant you can have them hand hold this close to the model.