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Lisa Nikodym

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questions about travel to Brittany, France
« on: January 07, 2008, 12:18:23 pm »

I'm thinking about spending about a week in Brittany (or Bretagne, in French) this spring.  If anyone here is familiar with it, I'd be interested in recommendations about areas that are good for photography and general overall visiting.  I'd be interested in historic villages and towns with good "atmosphere", interesting coastlines, megaliths, etc.  I'm *not* interested in beach resorts (which they apparently have plenty of too).

Can I choose one or two towns as bases and drive around the region from there, or are the roads too slow for that to work well?  Where would you recommend that's a good balance of hotel & restaurant availability, atmosphere, lack of traffic problems, and convenient location for day trips around the region?

When would the weather be good?  Is April good for weather and green countryside, or is that month still winter?  I don't mind a little rain now & then.  Or would May be considerably better?  I'm also interested in avoiding crowds as much as possible.

Thanks,
Lisa
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westbourne

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« Reply #1 on: January 08, 2008, 06:05:49 am »

Lisa


I have been travelling and holidaying in Brittany, on and off, for the last 30 years. Its only a 6 hour ferry journey from my home. April will be a great time to go, although it could be wet. Travelling by road is a breeze. As in most of rural France (and Brittany is VERY rural) the roads are good and relatively traffic free, only getting busy around the population hubs which are few and far between. This is quite a large area to try and cover in a week. You could try basing yourself in Quimper, a small, attractive, regional centre. It is the centre of Bretagne culture (not to be confused with anything French) and the coast is easily accessible. The coast around these parts is still very much a working environment, lots of small ports, lighthouses, with the odd marina thrown in. Pont Aven, home of the plein aire school of painting, and Pontl‘Abbe are close by. Try to get to Pont l‘Abbe on market day, some of the elderly ladies still dress in traditional Bretagne costume, this is very much a local market with a huge range foodstuffs, live animals, all mixing with stalls selling knocked off CDs, furniture and farm implements.  Hotels are plentiful and any displaying the Logis de France sign are normally good value, sometimes with restaurants attached serving good Bretagne food, majoring on seafood and Bretagne specialities. This is NOT fine dining but good value, honestly prepared using the freshest ingredients, normally from just outside their door.

Wherever you end up I am sure that you will have a great time.

Ian
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francois

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« Reply #2 on: January 08, 2008, 06:33:50 am »

Lisa,
We visited Britany 15 years ago… so things might have changed. We stayed mostly in the Finster region. We loved Ile d'Ouessant, Ile de Molène and Ile de Sein. All are accesible by boat (http://penarbed.fr/). Brest was nothing special unless you like industrial landscape like shipyards, military bases. Quimper was much more interesting and all the coast line was also fantastic. On the countryside, you'll find many old villages or hamlets, roman churches, etc. I cannot remember the names of those places but we used to drive "at random". Visiting off-season was ideal as July-August period is packed with tourists. We visited late December/early January and found Pointe du Raz virtally empty. You'll probably need to rent a car as  public transportation was non-existent.
Try to look for "Office du Tourisme" on the web, they might give you more up-to-date information. If I was to return, I would stay in Quimper instead of Brest.
« Last Edit: January 08, 2008, 06:34:05 am by francois »
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Lisa Nikodym

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questions about travel to Brittany, France
« Reply #3 on: January 08, 2008, 07:21:15 pm »

Thanks very much for the suggestions.  I will keep them in mind as I plan.

Quote
Hotels are plentiful and any displaying the Logis de France sign are normally good value, sometimes with restaurants attached serving good Bretagne food, majoring on seafood and Bretagne specialities. This is NOT fine dining but good value, honestly prepared using the freshest ingredients, normally from just outside their door.

That sounds encouraging!  I'm honestly not a particular fan of classic French cuisine, and what you describe sounds much more to my liking.

Lisa
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BernardLanguillier

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questions about travel to Brittany, France
« Reply #4 on: January 08, 2008, 08:15:55 pm »

Hello Lisa,

I was in Bretagne on vacation for a few days 3 or 4 years ago in the winter.

Some places I would definitely recommend are:

- Belle Ile-en-Mer near the South coast. This is where some of the most impressive images by Philip Plisson were shot (including the world famous "Avis de coup de vent sur les Poulains" seemingly the best selling photograph of all times),

http://commerce.sage.com/plisson/?__sgx_ac....125.2060')

- St-Malo and Dinant on the North Coast,
- Le Mont St-Michel is also at the northern border between Brittany and Normandy and is definitely worth a visit,
- the whole North coast of Brittany is very scenic but I haven't been there yet.

Cheers,
Bernard

francois

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« Reply #5 on: January 09, 2008, 03:50:04 am »

Quote
… I'm honestly not a particular fan of classic French cuisine…
Avoid the traditional Kouing Amman cake! You would need a couple of days to clear your stomach!  

Bernard mentionned Philip Plisson.  Mr. Plisson's photos can give you an idea about the coastline.
« Last Edit: January 09, 2008, 03:50:38 am by francois »
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NikoJorj

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questions about travel to Brittany, France
« Reply #6 on: January 21, 2008, 09:44:30 am »

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I'm thinking about spending about a week in Brittany (or Bretagne, in French) this spring.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=165653\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Good idea!

The place that jumps to my mind, photographically speaking, is the Cote de Granit Rose in North Britanny, between Paimpol and Morlaix.
The Ile de Brehat is really, really lovely - but there could be a bit too many people during the May long weekends (1st-4th and 8th-12th May), April might be quieter (btw, you should avoid the Mont St Michel if you got agoraphobia).
Don't miss the Sillon de Talbert too, a magical place if light is right.

But there are soooo many other nice places... Renting a car to go from there to there is the better deal, if you can't sail.
NB : I may have a slightly biased opinion in my advice, because I've mainly been there by sailboat and not by the road...

I particularly love the Golfe du Morbihan, around Vannes in the South Britanny, but it could be deceiving without your own boat - you can still reach Berder (near Larmor-Baden) by feet at low tide, and a small passenger boat will carry you to the greater Ile aux Moines (for seafood, don't miss the Café Charlemagne) and Ile d'Arz.

As said, the Bigouden country (Quimper, Pont l'Abbe, Douarnenez, Audierne...) is also worth a look - Le Guilvinec and its fishermen, La Torche beach a few miles to the north, and the Raz de Sein of course, and also Crozon-Morgat and its caves, the Cap de la Chevre, Camaret sur Mer and Pen-Hir, the Menez-Hom mountain (yes, it's a small one, don't you laugh) in the inner...

And about the Kouign-Amann, simply don't eat too much of it!
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Lisa Nikodym

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questions about travel to Brittany, France
« Reply #7 on: January 21, 2008, 11:29:34 am »

Thank you, NikoJorj.  We're planning the trip right now, and will probably go in mid-April to minimize crowds.  We will have a rental car to get around.  We only have a little over a week for the trip (including a couple of days in Normandy, to see Rouen and Mont-St.-Michel), so we will have to choose carefully what we want to see, but are currently working on deciding that - I'll keep your suggestions in mind.  I definitely want to spend several days around the Golfe du Morbihan.  I presume there are some sort of boat tours available somewhere there?

Lisa
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NikoJorj

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questions about travel to Brittany, France
« Reply #8 on: January 21, 2008, 12:30:36 pm »

Quote
I definitely want to spend several days around the Golfe du Morbihan.  I presume there are some sort of boat tours available somewhere there?[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=168577\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
I think so... But re-thinking to it, most of my memories from the Golfe du Morbihan were made navigating on shallow boats, and unless you rent one (sea kayaks eg or other light boats are well suited) and are able to deal with tides and moreover strong tidal currents to go (or better sleep) on desert islands, a bit of the magic may be lost.

If you drive a car, the Cote de granit rose (Pink Granite Coast, but I hope this was not too difficult to translate) may be easier to visit if you only have a few days - NB I include in it Bréhat and the Sillon de Talbert.

Enjoy your vacations!
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mifr64

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questions about travel to Brittany, France
« Reply #9 on: January 23, 2008, 08:47:56 pm »

Lisa:

You may want to have a look at this website. It is in French but easy to follow. Just click on the map and you will get some info about the location as well as pictures and advise and when to photograph. It could give you some ideas.

http://www.photographierlabretagne.com/index.php

You got good suggestions in previous post and I would also recommend the Mont St Michel, Fort la Latte, the Coast of Granite Rose, Brehat. For all this St Malo (pretty city) could serve as a base. Further ouest Crozon is beautiful and I also love Belle Ile en Mer although it is pretty much dead there in the off season. I remember doing some hiking and camping there 10 years ago and almost everything was closed.

Have a great trip.
Michel
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Lisa Nikodym

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« Reply #10 on: January 24, 2008, 04:09:34 pm »

Great web site, Michel.  It's giving me more ideas.  

Thanks

Lisa
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JohnHuuksloot

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questions about travel to Brittany, France
« Reply #11 on: January 27, 2008, 02:50:25 pm »

Quote
I'm thinking about spending about a week in Brittany (or Bretagne, in French) this spring.  If anyone here is familiar with it, I'd be interested in recommendations about areas that are good for photography and general overall visiting.  I'd be interested in historic villages and towns with good "atmosphere", interesting coastlines, megaliths, etc.  I'm *not* interested in beach resorts (which they apparently have plenty of too).

Can I choose one or two towns as bases and drive around the region from there, or are the roads too slow for that to work well?  Where would you recommend that's a good balance of hotel & restaurant availability, atmosphere, lack of traffic problems, and convenient location for day trips around the region?

When would the weather be good?  Is April good for weather and green countryside, or is that month still winter?  I don't mind a little rain now & then.  Or would May be considerably better?  I'm also interested in avoiding crowds as much as possible.

Thanks,
Lisa
[{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Hi Lisa,

I have been in Brittany / Bretagne a few years ago. I think it was the end of April and enjoyed lovely weather. Bretagne is a very beautiful province of France with many photogenic sites. Apart from the rocks in Ploumanach, Point de Raz is most certainly worth a visit as well.

I have placed some pictures of Bretagne / Brittany on my website: [a href=\"http://www.huuksloot.com/]http://www.huuksloot.com/[/url]

Enjoy your trip.

John van Huuksloot Kuilenburg
http://www.huuksloot.com/
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Petrjay

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« Reply #12 on: February 05, 2008, 02:08:07 pm »

Quote
That sounds encouraging!  I'm honestly not a particular fan of classic French cuisine, and what you describe sounds much more to my liking.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=165998\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Until I actually had the chance to visit the country, I shared the same sentiment. But what I learned after some fairly extensive travel there, was that every region in France has its own cuisine; if there's a common thread, it's that the food is often simple and nearly always well prepared. I'm sure what we Americans consider "classic French cuisine" exists somewhere over there, but you'd probably have to hunt for it, even in Paris. BTW I'd like to add andouillettes to the caution list. My first French meal was in the city of Amiens, and I ordered andouillettes, which the waiter described as "sausages." They were extremely gamy, even when drowned in mustard sauce. I managed to finish them, but it wasn't easy. I jokingly told my wife that they were French "chitlin's." Back at the hotel I looked them up - sure enough - chitlin's. (hog intestines) I don't know if you'll find them on the menu in Bretagne, but be forewarned. Andouillettes are an experience most of us would rather forego.
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NikoJorj

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questions about travel to Brittany, France
« Reply #13 on: February 05, 2008, 04:00:30 pm »

Quote
But what I learned after some fairly extensive travel there, was that every region in France has its own cuisine; if there's a common thread, it's that the food is often simple and nearly always well prepared.
Some regions are more into it than others (tip : gastronomically speaking, Lyon is the capital of France), but the main rule is to stay within local production - it's certainly not optimal to have a bouillabaisse in Jura or a boite chaude in Marseille.

In Bretagne, the best meals are accordingly either seafood or charcuterie (hog-based things - a french saying goes "tout est bon dans le cochon", everything is fine in a pig - see below for an example), as there is a lot of sea around it, and a lot of pigs in the inner Bretagne.
 

Quote
BTW I'd like to add andouillettes to the caution list.
You probably were given a bad one - or bad prepared. Yes, the taste is stronger than an industrial pseudo-frankfurter plastic-wrapped sausage, for sure - but it can be, nonetheless, very fine.
In the same tripe league, be sure to try the Andouille de Guéméné (sorry for the accents, it reads Guemene with three acute accents on the e's if your can't display them) - it's smoked, and very mild, the finest of any tripe sausage in the whole galaxy (very probably).
The Andouille de Vire is not bad either, but not exactly as mild - still worth a try.

The crepe a l'andouille is a god way to taste it, as the buckwheat taste of the crepe goes very well with the andouille.
NB : in Bretagne, a crepe is made only from buckwheat and generally served with salted dressings, and it's the galette that is made of wheat flour and is served with sweets - they are both the third specialty of Bretagne, to be found in Creperies.

Quote
Andouillettes are an experience most of us would rather forego.
With such a conclusion, I sentence you to read thoroughly "The Physiology of Taste" by Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin  .
More generally speaking , our french food has a very average level of casualties on its record, certainly not more than spanish oil or english beef   - so the best to do here is try, and prepare to be surprised.
It won't always be to your taste, and you're not compelled to like it, but you can't know whether you like or not without trying it! (A lesson I know well : I've got a three-year-old son   )
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GerardK

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questions about travel to Brittany, France
« Reply #14 on: February 05, 2008, 04:06:45 pm »

Absolutely, steer well clear of andouillettes. I tried it because it sounded so nice. Yuck. But you'll find crepes anywhere and they're wonderful.

Anyhow, we spent two summers in Brittanny and I'd love to go back sometime - it was a wonderful experience. For places and pictures please visit the Brittanny section on my website (below).

And do try to find a traditional seaweed gathering festival: 'goumoniers'. It's the most fun I ever had and very photogenic. Try Plouneour-Trez. Enjoy,


Gerard Kingma
http://www.kingma.nu
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Lisa Nikodym

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questions about travel to Brittany, France
« Reply #15 on: February 05, 2008, 05:02:29 pm »

Thank you all for the warnings about andouillettes.  Good to know.  I also have a large glossary of French food names that I plan to take to restaurants with me, which will help avoid other surprises.  :-)

My main problem with classic French food (as least as served in French restaurants in the U.S.) is that there is wine in most of the sauces.  Alcohol makes me ill, so I have a difficult time finding things on the menu I can eat.  However, give me a well-prepared piece of simple grilled fresh fish and I'm happy; it's encouraging that Brittany/Bretagne is known for good seafood, and hopefully I can find seafood without wine sauces.  Crepes and galettes are also a happy thing for me; I'm not a very heavy eater, so there's a good chance I'll be having many of my dinners in creperies.

I also have fond memories of the wonderful pastries I had in Paris and in the French Alps on my trips there.  In my experience, the French do pastries better than anywhere else in the world.  Unless Brittany/Bretagne is different in that regard, I expect many of my lunches will be in pastry shops!

Lisa
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NikoJorj

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« Reply #16 on: February 05, 2008, 05:09:03 pm »

Quote
Absolutely, steer well clear of andouillettes.
You Barbarians!  
Super Dupont, au secouuuuuurs!
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Petrjay

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« Reply #17 on: February 08, 2008, 10:29:11 am »

Quote
You Barbarians! 
Super Dupont, au secouuuuuurs!
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=172553\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Barbarians? As a person of Norman ancestry, I'm only too aware of the methods my rather aggressive forebears applied as they hacked and slashed their way into the country, but I'd hoped that you folks would have gotten over it by now. After my brush with the dreaded andouillettes, My wife happened to be going though a box of mementos she'd accumulated during the time she lived in Paris. Included was a dinner invitation she'd received from her father, who'd been visiting the city at the time. At the bottom of the note, he'd scrawled in bold letters: "Whatever you do, don't order andouillettes!!!" I laughed myself silly; if only I'd seen the warning in time. Seriously, I've always made an effort wherever I've traveled, to ask for and heed advice from local folks as to where and what to eat, and disappointments have been few and far between. I've turned my nose up at nothing, however exotic, but the next time I order andouillettes, (and now I will) I hope they arrive at my table thoroughly cleaned and correctly prepared. For all I know, that restaurant in Amiens employed an American chef. (Hey, anything's possible)
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Rob C

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« Reply #18 on: February 13, 2008, 04:48:48 am »

Just remember: if it´s like many other places in France, think about lunch no later than noon - failure to do that might leave you hungry.

Living in Spain, it has always surprised me that the French have this thing about early dining; here, most places other than quickie bars won´t serve you before one o´clock, which feels much more civilized. You can also make your order after three-thirty, should you have risen late...

However, I would back the suggestion for the Logis system: great value and, in most that I´ve used, great food too. I think you will find it hard to get wine-free food in any place that prides its cuisine - it´s the essence of so much classical flavour as well as everyday cooking. Perhaps you´ve just been exposed to poor local wines - it is not the same, drinking it by the glass as having the joy of its flavour in food; the alcohol is evaporated away and only the slightest aroma and tast remain. Don´t kill your chances of the gastronomic experience of a lifetime by fearing something more in the mind than on the plate.

I have the opposite problem: after heart issues I have been allowed but a single glass of red per day... life sucks, sometimes, but at least I´m still here.

Enjoy the trip

Rob C

Lisa Nikodym

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questions about travel to Brittany, France
« Reply #19 on: February 13, 2008, 11:47:10 am »

Quote
I think you will find it hard to get wine-free food in any place that prides its cuisine - it´s the essence of so much classical flavour as well as everyday cooking. Perhaps you´ve just been exposed to poor local wines - it is not the same, drinking it by the glass as having the joy of its flavour in food; the alcohol is evaporated away and only the slightest aroma and tast remain. Don´t kill your chances of the gastronomic experience of a lifetime by fearing something more in the mind than on the plate.

Rob, I assure you, my problem with alcohol is very real, and has nothing to do with cheap wine like you suggest.  It's a not uncommon stomach problem, according to my doctor.  I get nauseous about a day after I eat something with alcohol, caffeine, or a couple of other less common foods, and it continues for a couple of days.  A little alcohol or caffeine makes me a little nauseous, a lot makes me very nauseous.  I saw the results of a scientific study a few years ago testing how much alcohol was left in food with cooked alcoholic sauces (wine sauces, flaming desserts, etc.), and it found that in some dishes the alcohol mostly cooks off, but in a significant fraction of them there's still a significant amount of alcohol left.  I've learned to avoid them entirely, because otherwise I often get ill afterwards (and I have fifteen years of gastric experimentation experience to base this on).  I really miss being able to eat dishes with wine sauces, because, as you say, it can really enhance the flavor, but if I do as you suggest I'll spend most of the rest of the trip feeling nauseous and not eating much of *anything*.  I'll just have to do the best I can to find dishes without alcoholic sauces, and scrape off as much sauce as possible if I can't.  (It's one of the reasons I particularly love various Asian cuisines, from Turkish to Thai - they virtually never have alcohol in them, but are extremely flavorful anyway.)

But thanks for echoing the suggestion of the Logis restaurants - I'm just finishing getting lodging reservations all around Brittany (and Normandy), and am staying in several Logis lodges.  

Lisa
« Last Edit: February 13, 2008, 11:47:57 am by nniko »
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