Pages: [1]   Go Down

Author Topic: Bruce Fraser's sharpening book  (Read 9975 times)

stamper

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 5882
Bruce Fraser's sharpening book
« on: January 02, 2008, 02:08:15 pm »

I bought this book about three months ago and have been using his suggestions and I am sure that I have in putted the correct settings They don't seem to make much difference to my images Nikon nefs 6mp and 10mp Does anyone else find his unsharp settings to be on the conservative side? Also the need for capture content and output The content settings in particular seem to do little I could be missing something What do others think?TIA

Schewe

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 6229
    • http:www.schewephoto.com
Bruce Fraser's sharpening book
« Reply #1 on: January 02, 2008, 03:57:23 pm »

Quote
They don't seem to make much difference to my images Nikon nefs 6mp and 10mp Does anyone else find his unsharp settings to be on the conservative side? Also the need for capture content and output The content settings in particular seem to do little I could be missing something
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=164620\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]


Unless you understand the concept of 3 phase sharpening, you won't understand why the capture sharpening is DESIGNED to be less aggressive on purpose. Between capture, creative and the final output sharpening, the final determinator of the success is intended to be the final print. Have you taken your images all the way to print?
Logged

stamper

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 5882
Bruce Fraser's sharpening book
« Reply #2 on: January 02, 2008, 06:16:42 pm »

Quote
Unless you understand the concept of 3 phase sharpening, you won't understand why the capture sharpening is DESIGNED to be less aggressive on purpose. Between capture, creative and the final output sharpening, the final determinator of the success is intended to be the final print. Have you taken your images all the way to print?
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=164642\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

I have I took his advice and looked at my images on the monitor at between 25% and 33% as recommended and couldn't see at that viewing distance a difference in the before and after  Switching the layer on and off At 100% there was a difference but it didn't look ugly as described in the book I am not critical of the book but I am looking for further guidance As said sharpening is a matter of taste I am as everyone else is trying to get the best out of my images Happy new year from Scotland

Steven Draper

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 147
    • http://www.stevendraperphotography.com
Bruce Fraser's sharpening book
« Reply #3 on: January 02, 2008, 11:26:25 pm »

Hi

As far as I understand it, in a three phase sharpening workflow (which may also include separate edge contrast enhancement) the capture sharpening, (sometimes called de-fogging) is about overcoming the slight softening effect of the anti-aliasing filter fitted over the sensor, especially if the camera was set to No in-camera sharpening. It seems to be common practice to do this fairly early on in the processing workflow now days, before attacking curves, levels etc.

It isn't really about making soft images due to focus, lens or other technical issues sharp, although it may help a bit.

Further sharpness can be added by applying local sharpening and also apparent, or "relative" sharpening by applying softening / blurring effects in order to enhance the sharpened zone.

That is effectively all I do to a master image, sharpening wise.

The final phase, and often the most dramatic is the output sharpening, and that is when on a file that is destined to be printed things can start to look a bit ugly on the screen. With practice and review, the relationship between screen and print will develop and judging it will become easier.

Try experimenting by making a print (or a small crop from a print) and keep sharpening and printing until you push the sharpening  too far. See if these setting vary from paper to paper and type of print to another.

Getting things to look sharp for the web has equal challenges too, but at least one has a reasonable view of what is going on, at least on you own screen anyway!
Logged
image examples are at my website  [url=h

bjanes

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 3387
Bruce Fraser's sharpening book
« Reply #4 on: January 03, 2008, 06:32:35 am »

Quote
I bought this book about three months ago and have been using his suggestions and I am sure that I have in putted the correct settings They don't seem to make much difference to my images Nikon nefs 6mp and 10mp Does anyone else find his unsharp settings to be on the conservative side? Also the need for capture content and output The content settings in particular seem to do little I could be missing something What do others think?TIA
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=164620\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Bruce's sharpening workflow is rather complicated and without any examples or involved descriptions, I don't think anyone will be able to give you much help. I would suggest that you download an evaluation copy of PKSharpener, which essentially automates Bruce's sharpening work flow. You will then be assured that it is being applied properly and can evaluate the results. From my own experience, I would not say that the settings are conservative, as I often use the opacity layer to tone down the results a bit.

Bill
« Last Edit: January 03, 2008, 06:33:26 am by bjanes »
Logged

stamper

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 5882
Bruce Fraser's sharpening book
« Reply #5 on: January 04, 2008, 05:37:49 am »

Quote
Bruce's sharpening workflow is rather complicated and without any examples or involved descriptions, I don't think anyone will be able to give you much help. I would suggest that you download an evaluation copy of PKSharpener, which essentially automates Bruce's sharpening work flow. You will then be assured that it is being applied properly and can evaluate the results. From my own experience, I would not say that the settings are conservative, as I often use the opacity layer to tone down the results a bit.

Bill
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=164759\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]


Thanks the last post makes sense to me His settings are a starting point rather than a definitive setting

marc_mcdonald2b

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 9
Bruce Fraser's sharpening book
« Reply #6 on: January 11, 2008, 04:46:21 pm »

Quote
Hi

As far as I understand it, in a three phase sharpening workflow (which may also include separate edge contrast enhancement) the capture sharpening, (sometimes called de-fogging) is about overcoming the slight softening effect of the anti-aliasing filter fitted over the sensor, especially if the camera was set to No in-camera sharpening. It seems to be common practice to do this fairly early on in the processing workflow now days, before attacking curves, levels etc.

It isn't really about making soft images due to focus, lens or other technical issues sharp, although it may help a bit.

Further sharpness can be added by applying local sharpening and also apparent, or "relative" sharpening by applying softening / blurring effects in order to enhance the sharpened zone.

That is effectively all I do to a master image, sharpening wise.

The final phase, and often the most dramatic is the output sharpening, and that is when on a file that is destined to be printed things can start to look a bit ugly on the screen. With practice and review, the relationship between screen and print will develop and judging it will become easier.

Try experimenting by making a print (or a small crop from a print) and keep sharpening and printing until you push the sharpening  too far. See if these setting vary from paper to paper and type of print to another.

Getting things to look sharp for the web has equal challenges too, but at least one has a reasonable view of what is going on, at least on you own screen anyway!
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=164715\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
OK maybe I'm doing the wrong thing here, so perhaps some of you can comment on this. I'm completely on board with de-fogging which I usually do early in my workflow. If I have a selective sharpening need I use NIK Sharpener Pro after I have done all of my other processing. I run usually run this stage in the display mode and error on the under-sharpened side. As a last stage before I print the final image I sharpen for the display size, paper and printer using Sharpener Pro. I've been getting good prints this way without worrying about whether or not I've applied the best settings (I'm letting the plug-in do that for me). Does anybody see anything wrong with sharpening this way?

Marc
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up