Weird Green parts in picture with alpa/aptus

[meurten]

Hai

Has anyone experienced, or does anyone know what causes this green part on the right hand side of the photo?
It was shot with an Alpa- schneider digitar 35, with an Aptus 22 back on 30 seconds.
There are three examples all shot in night conditions, no shift. and I have seen it happen more times in same kind of conditions.
Uptill now not in a daylight shootings?

Maarten




[attachment=4254:attachment][attachment=4255:attachment][attachment=4256:attachm
ent]

[Caracalla]

Hai

Has anyone experienced, or does anyone know what causes this green part on the right hand side of the photo?
It was shot with an Alpa- schneider digitar 35, with an Aptus 22 back on 30 seconds.
There are three examples all shot in night conditions, no shift. and I have seen it happen more times in same kind of conditions.
Uptill now not in a daylight shootings?

Maarten
[attachment=4254:attachment][attachment=4255:attachment][attachment=4256:attachm
ent]
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=160745\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Some magenta cast and some green cast can be corrected using the Leaf gain adjuster software as I'm sure you know.  However I don't think it should happen with Schneider Apo-Digitar 5.6/35 mm XL . It does happen to me  with Schneider Apo-Digitar 5.6/24 mm XL and Rodenstock Apo-Sironar digital HR 4.5/28 mm using my P45+, also the Aptus75s I borrowed from a friend had a little cast showing but to my surprise less than Phase, but as I said nothing that cannot be fixed with the Leaf gain adjuster software or C1 for Phase.

If you can or if it is not too late to test few more examples of your Schneider Apo-Digitar 5.6/35 mm XL would be a good idea if not the Leaf gain adjuster software should do it.

Did you already processe these files because they also show vignetting, perhaps if to your desire than it is perfectly fine.

[Jonathan Wienke]

It looks like the long-exposure blooming on the original Canon 1D, which was caused by the amplifiers next to the sensor chip heating the edge and causing a purple aura on one side of the frame. I wonder if something similar isn't happening to your back during long exposures.

[jing q]

Hai

Has anyone experienced, or does anyone know what causes this green part on the right hand side of the photo?
It was shot with an Alpa- schneider digitar 35, with an Aptus 22 back on 30 seconds.
There are three examples all shot in night conditions, no shift. and I have seen it happen more times in same kind of conditions.
Uptill now not in a daylight shootings?

Maarten
[attachment=4254:attachment][attachment=4255:attachment][attachment=4256:attachm
ent]
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=160745\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Did you check out the Gain Adjuster? Leaf released a PDF also regarding problems with color casts with certain lenses..
good luck. it's irritating when you bump into sensor issues.
on the bright side your long exposures seem to be much more pleasant than mine!

[rainer_v]

it could eventually has to do with oversensitivity of the dalsa22 sensor to different tungsten light sources, especially to (some) fluorescent lights.
in this respect the dalsa75 behaves much better than the prior chip.
no real cure.
white shading can help but not under all conditions.

[eronald]

it could eventually has to do with oversensitivity of the dalsa22 sensor to different tungsten light sources, especially to (some) fluorescent lights.
in this respect the dalsa75 behaves much better than the prior chip.
no real cure.
white shading can help but not under all conditions.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=160795\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

I know it's a strange suggestion, but I would check the cover glass of the sensor in this special case.

Edmund

[Dustbak]

I experienced exactly the same thing sometimes with my A17. Not sure what caused it. It seemed to be some sort of weird fluke that came up now & than. One shot had green on one site and the next one I took did not.

It just happened every now and than.

Sorry not much help, no explanation for it.

[meurten]

I know it's a strange suggestion, but I would check the cover glass of the sensor in this special case.

Edmund
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Hi edmund could you tell me why you would chech the glass, or what could be wrong with it?

[eronald]

Hi edmund could you tell me why you would chech the glass, or what could be wrong with it?
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=161061\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

It's just an intuition, I think I have seen similar effects with glass slide mounts when I was much younger.

Edmund

[meurten]

Thanks for the reply's

What is strange to me is that it doens't happen in daylight in combination with a long exposure, and that it only appears on the right hand side.
If it would be the lens I guess it should see in tho other dide as well?
I will try some test shots at night with the back and the alpa 35mm see if I can make it appear again & then with the back on a hassy to see if anything changes.
Any other suggestions for a test?

maarten

[rainer_v]

light sources.

[meurten]

Some magenta cast and some green cast can be corrected using the Leaf gain adjuster software as I'm sure you know.  However I don't think it should happen with Schneider Apo-Digitar 5.6/35 mm XL . It does happen to me  with Schneider Apo-Digitar 5.6/24 mm XL and Rodenstock Apo-Sironar digital HR 4.5/28 mm using my P45+, also the Aptus75s I borrowed from a friend had a little cast showing but to my surprise less than Phase, but as I said nothing that cannot be fixed with the Leaf gain adjuster software or C1 for Phase.

If you can or if it is not too late to test few more examples of your Schneider Apo-Digitar 5.6/35 mm XL would be a good idea if not the Leaf gain adjuster software should do it.

Did you already processe these files because they also show vignetting, perhaps if to your desire than it is perfectly fine.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=160764\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

I haven't really done anything to them yet, only processed them for this forum.
The problem with the gain files under these conditions is the shutter time 30 seconds is the max so it's hard to make a good gain file thats +2 exposed.

maybe there's another way Im not familiar with?

Maarten

[Caracalla]

I haven't really done anything to them yet, only processed them for this forum.
The problem with the gain files under these conditions is the shutter time 30 seconds is the max so it's hard to make a good gain file thats +2 exposed.

maybe there's another way Im not familiar with?

Maarten
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=161071\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Long exposure was the only reason I went with Phase. As soon as my friend comes back I will use his Aptus again and try to simulate your problem to see if it happens but I tell you now  I didn't have any cast showing with 35mm on Aptus 75s no vignetting also.

Did you take a reference shot prior to the ones you made? because I would like to see them.

[Mike Chini]

I would try a bunch of shots in quick succession.  That would eliminate heat as the cause.  I'd also double check that your lens and 'film' plane match up evenly.  It seems as if the green section has a curve to it which would suggest to me that it is a camera/lens issue.  Perhaps then do a bunch of shots with 4 different swings and 4 different shifts (ie up down left right).  Maybe try rotating the lens in the lens board as well.

BTW - very nice work - especially your interiors.  Are those night shots all done with the Leaf?  I'm really interested in the Aptus backs but long exposures has me holding back.

[Dustbak]

Now I remember! I had these now & then with my flexbody & A17. It only occured sometimes, so when I noticed I simply took another shot. It never really bothered me until I started using the Flexbody with the Hasselblad CF39. With the CF all my shots ended up weird. It turned out to be a sync problem between the shutter and the back. A lube (CLA) job for the flexbody was all it needed to fix it.

Maybe you have a similar problem?

[pixjohn]

You can read a few Idea's I posted before If you do a search on on LL for Leaf Aptus 75.  

Its an easy fix, just use a small strobe pointed at the white disc mounted on the camera. I use a small morris type strobes but you can use any cheap strobe.

I haven't really done anything to them yet, only processed them for this forum.
The problem with the gain files under these conditions is the shutter time 30 seconds is the max so it's hard to make a good gain file thats +2 exposed.

maybe there's another way Im not familiar with?

Maarten
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=161071\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

[yaya]

Maarten this is an issue related to the sync between the shutter and the back.

If it does it at 30 seconds, try a slightly shorter exposure

You can try another sync cable and if that still fails I would suggest sending your lens for a service.

Yair

[meurten]

Hello Yair.

I will try nad make pictures with different speeds close to 30 seconds, but do you know if it happends under colder conditions, or could it have anything to do with the humidity?
The lens is a brand new Alpa / schneider lens, so it should be ok, but then again so is the aptus.

thanks,

Maarten

[roskav]

This looks like something that I have experienced the odd time .. first with a hasselblad V as in this thread...

http://luminous-landscape.com/forum/index....71&#entry144671

But then I noticed it later with my rodenstock 35mm (On gottschalt) ... I think it is either a sync problem .. which accounts for most of the mess ups I encounter .. but also maybe me taking the shot again just at the point of the aptus finishing processing a shot ... the problem then persists until I turn the unit off and on again.

Ros

[JDG]

The green is far to strong on the side to lens cast.  Sync errors are generally magenta and often streaky.
These files show pretty well what happens when you hit the exposure limit of the camera, try pushing the exposure even longer and you will begin to see a bunch of hot pixels as well.  Try a P45 or any of Phase's +series and you wont see the green error.   With the Aptus it will need to be rather cold outside for the CCD to sustain the full 30seconds