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Author Topic: Paper curl  (Read 3436 times)

ThePhotoDude

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Paper curl
« on: December 05, 2007, 07:48:05 am »

Hello all,

I am in the process of sourcing cardboard tubing to post my prints out.

The suppliers all offer the best prices if you buy a pack of 10 tubes etc etc, the usual stuff. But with the range of print sizes I have on offer, I could end up with 20 different tube sizes! 10 of each and that's 200 tubes lying around. Ah, no.

Obviously I want to use a range of about 5 sizes but this is where I get stuck. Maybe I am over-complicating things but I have worked out a formula in Excel for an acceptable amount of how many times I can roll a printed sheet (inkjet).

For example it would be ok to roll an A0 print 9 times (to stick inside a tube 88mm dia) but not acceptable to roll an A4 print 9 times (inside a tube of 20mm dia) ... see what I mean?
I'm getting all confused here and like I say maybe I am over-complicating things here.

My question, is how tight can you roll an inkjet print before it's damaged? Is there a formula? How about the type (weight gsm) of the media?

My range of print sizes range from A4 right up to 4500mm x 1500mm and everything in-between.

Any ideas? Any ideas appriciated as I know most of you already are doing this with experience.

thanks! John
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DottieC

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Paper curl
« Reply #1 on: December 05, 2007, 11:13:02 am »

Quote
Hello all,

I am in the process of sourcing cardboard tubing to post my prints out.

...
Any ideas? Any ideas appriciated as I know most of you already are doing this with experience.

thanks! John
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=158369\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Hey John,

I never use cardboard tubes, I use cardboard boxes that open along the long side. The prints don't have to rolled very tightly and there's no sliding into the box. The boxes store flat. After working for a framer a number of years, I learned that it is very difficult to get tightly rolled artwork out of a tube without damaging it. Can't recommend a box source right now because I'm not happy with the quality of my boxes and am researching other vendors.

Dottie.......................
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DougMorgan

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Paper curl
« Reply #2 on: December 05, 2007, 12:43:50 pm »

I used to use the 4 inch diameter tubes with plastic endcaps and they were ok for about 30~35 running feet of prints on photo paper or stuff like enhanced matte.   Rolling them was always a little nerve-wracking and the price a bit high.   The diameter was too tight for heavy art papers, I think.

Now I use 6 inch diameter cardboard concrete forms and just cut cardboard ends out of the scrap cardboard for paper prints.  You can stuff a lot prints in to one package this way.  If an order is all canvas I have boxes that are more convenient.   I still don't trust the boxes with a large order of  paper prints as while the canvas can take a bit of flexing or crumpling on the edges the paper prints can not.

I place a layer of tissue paper between prints and have a layer of kraft paper on the outside.    The tissue paper overlaps the prints by a good margin and provides a bit of cushion for the edge.

Note that I do mostly panoramas that take well to rolling.

Doug
« Last Edit: December 05, 2007, 01:11:51 pm by DougMorgan »
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Peter McLennan

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Paper curl
« Reply #3 on: December 05, 2007, 05:44:17 pm »

Quote
I learned that it is very difficult to get tightly rolled artwork out of a tube without damaging it. ...........
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=158414\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
That's because the print springs out to the diameter of the tube.  Prevent this and there's no trouble getting it out.  
Elastic bands work perfectly.

The side-opening box sounds like a far better solution, though.
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Brian Gilkes

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Paper curl
« Reply #4 on: December 05, 2007, 06:20:03 pm »

Prints should be rolled no tighter than the core that they came off, and in the same direction. They should not touch the outside tube.
We use a 3" inner tube, roll prints onto this with interleaving archival tissue . Then enough bubble wrap is applied to stop print moving in side the outer tube while still alowing easy removal. The ends are similarly packed with bubble wrap to stop any longitudinal movement. Tubes are sawn to correct length according to the print size. Several sizes of outside tubes cover most contingencies. We have sent prints all over the world without a dint or a scratch. (so far, cross fingers!!)
Cheers,
Brian,
www.pharoseditions.com.au
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Wayne Fox

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Paper curl
« Reply #5 on: December 05, 2007, 06:35:33 pm »

Quote
Hello all,

I am in the process of sourcing cardboard tubing to post my prints out.

The suppliers all offer the best prices if you buy a pack of 10 tubes etc etc, the usual stuff. But with the range of print sizes I have on offer, I could end up with 20 different tube sizes! 10 of each and that's 200 tubes lying around. Ah, no.

Obviously I want to use a range of about 5 sizes but this is where I get stuck. Maybe I am over-complicating things but I have worked out a formula in Excel for an acceptable amount of how many times I can roll a printed sheet (inkjet).

For example it would be ok to roll an A0 print 9 times (to stick inside a tube 88mm dia) but not acceptable to roll an A4 print 9 times (inside a tube of 20mm dia) ... see what I mean?
I'm getting all confused here and like I say maybe I am over-complicating things here.

My question, is how tight can you roll an inkjet print before it's damaged? Is there a formula? How about the type (weight gsm) of the media?

My range of print sizes range from A4 right up to 4500mm x 1500mm and everything in-between.

Any ideas? Any ideas appriciated as I know most of you already are doing this with experience.

thanks! John
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=158369\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

I think the diameter of the rolled print would mostly depend on the type of material, and not as much on the size of the print.  A print on lustre paper is much easier to "roll" up than one on heavy art paper thus can probably be rolled up smaller, and the art paper will be much harder to de-curl for matting and framing.  Obviously things change if you are rolling several prints together, or very long prints.

I would guess that only 3 or 4 sizes would be necessary. No reason to buy a smaller box just so you can roll a print up smaller ... using a little larger box is better for the print anyway.

The tighter you roll any print, the harder it will be to flatten later.

Square boxes designed for blueprints are a pretty good option.  I think in the past we have also used some 3 sided "tubes" which are great, but I think they were custom cut/folded, and the cost over the standard square "tubes" wasn't worth it.
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DougMorgan

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Paper curl
« Reply #6 on: December 05, 2007, 06:58:50 pm »

Quote
Prints should be rolled no tighter than the core that they came off, and in the same direction.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=158517\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

If you roll them the opposite direction for shipment they will lay almost flat when unrolled, or at least that's the theory.

Doug
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Brian Gilkes

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Paper curl
« Reply #7 on: December 06, 2007, 02:00:52 am »

Quote from: DougMorgan,Dec 5 2007, 11:58 PM
If you roll them the opposite direction for shipment they will lay almost flat when unrolled, or at least that's the theory.

Doug
e]

True. Been there , done that. It is very easy to kink papers doing this. If they are your prints , and you are in a hurry, OK.
With a little time and a couple of books, most prints flatten without this approach. If they sit reversed on the roll for a while, they just curl the other way. My technique is safer
Cheers,
Brian
Pharos Editions
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DougMorgan

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« Reply #8 on: December 06, 2007, 11:34:54 am »

Quote from: Brian Gilkes,Dec 6 2007, 12:00 AM
Quote from: DougMorgan,Dec 5 2007, 11:58 PM
If you roll them the opposite direction for shipment they will lay almost flat when unrolled, or at least that's the theory.

Doug
e]

True. Been there , done that. It is very easy to kink papers doing this. If they are your prints , and you are in a hurry, OK.
With a little time and a couple of books, most prints flatten without this approach. If they sit reversed on the roll for a while, they just curl the other way. My technique is safer
Cheers,
Brian
Pharos Editions
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=158607\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

I've never kinked one (knock on wood) during the rolling process and I've shipped a thousand prints this way but I'm also talking about photo papers like smooth pearl or premium luster which are easy to roll.   With a 6 inch diameter tube and using an empty paper core as a  guide it's foolproof enough for my patience level.   I've had more problems denting them from excessive handling moving prints around -- space is always a problem.  

Art papers require a lot more care, for sure, and flaking is another fear.   Canvas is a breeze in comparison.

Doug
« Last Edit: December 06, 2007, 11:35:17 am by DougMorgan »
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Brian Gilkes

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« Reply #9 on: December 06, 2007, 03:55:03 pm »

Doug,
Agreed. I only use art paper, and very little canvas. With 300gsm +, I reckon the 3" core is the way to go.
A couple of side comments.
Spraying, eg Premier Art Print Shield, reduces flaking.
Handling large sheets is a disaster prone occupation.Through practice , I can usually throw an A0 sheet without a kink. There were lots of stuff ups in the training process.
I'm somewhat dreading 64" wide stuff off the 11880. How are you making out? I know there is not much paper that size yet.
Cheers,
Brian
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Neil Currie

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Paper curl
« Reply #10 on: December 18, 2007, 11:38:21 pm »

The only way I can see it to ship 64" wide prints on the 11880 is to roll it on a core with exta wrap around and then wrap it in craft paper and then either bubble wrap it or put it into a box. The mounting people tell me they prefer it on a roll because they can just unroll it right on top of the mounting board. Epson is coming out with blank cores and, I hope, a box to go with it.
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