If you can't make it with a single shot, i.e. you have to stitch some frames, consider following; however, if you can, avoid it, because it will be very laborous, probably far too laborous to be appretiated enough by the unwashed customer.
1. you need a pano-bracket, of course. I can't give you any information on that (I made one for myself), but you can find discussion of some of them on
Max Lyons' pano forumsIIRC, Really Right Stuff (RRS) too sells such brackets to horrendeous prices,
but only for certain lenses (and add the problem of focusing to that).
2. You need to measure the adjustment of the camera extremely good. Finding the entrance pupil is not difficult. If you see advice to determine the location of the nodal point, you can take it, it leads to the entrance pupil.
You can judge the position very roughly by stopping down the lens, closing the aperture and looking through it from the front. Open-close-open the aperture, and you see its location; that's the entrance pupil (you see the
projected location of the aperture, not the physical location). This can be the starting position.
There are many good descriptions how to do it, so I write only what you need to be careful of:
a. It is not enough to see the adjustment through the viewfinder. The location of your eye over the viewfinder influences what you see. You
have to make shots and look at them on the computer. I usually make several shots, record the locations millimeter wise and find, which one is the best; this is more productive, then making a try, looking at it, then another try, etc. I check the alignment on not de-mosaiced raw files in order to see it down to single pixel.
b. the location has to be accurate within one millimeter, but for your particular application possibly even more accurate.
c. Zooming always changes the location of entrance pupil.
d. Focusing
may or may not change it, depending on the lens. I have eight lenses, only one of them does not change with focusing. These changes are negligable at the long end (basically, the adjustment all together is more vague at the long end), but with very short focal lengths this can mean one millimeter more or less (or even greater difference), which is a lot.
Consequently, you may need to locate the entrance pupil for several focusing distances (and re-adjust the camera on the bracket), or fix the distance.
Note, that normally you don't need to shoot all frames with the same focusing (contrary to the advice of many semi-practiced pano shooters),. Although you will shoot anyway from tripod, so you can stop down as much as you want to, DoF may still pose a problem if you don't refocus (but in some situations refocusing won't help anyway, I think).
e. Pay particular attention to the initial adjustment of the camera on the bracket. This depends on the bracket, but what you need to see is, that the best longitudinal adjustment does not help, if the camera is not mounted parallel to whatever it has to on the bracket, because tilting the camera leads to the change of the entrance pupil location in the longitudinal.
I am not sure if I expressed this understandably.
3. You will need a decent stitcher. Autostitch, Photoshop, Arcsoft and many others are none. Actually, only those based on Panorama Tools are "decent": PTGui, Panorama Tools Assembler (only $39), Hugin (free, but not for Windows, I think).
If you need all this only for one project, I think it does not pay to go this way; the investment (mostly your time) may be too high.
