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Author Topic: Recommendations for Digital Workflow  (Read 2865 times)

bheiser

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Recommendations for Digital Workflow
« on: November 27, 2007, 04:45:08 am »

Hi

I posted this in another forum in response to another question but it wasn't really the right place for it ... this forum looks more appropriate.

I've recently started processing my raw files (Nikon D70, D300) primarily for printing.  So far I'm working with 8x10 and 11x14 but plan to branch into other sizes.

My workflow is what I've cobbled together from reading various sites describing what people think should be done.  But I'm not sure what I've ended up with is right.  For example I'm far from satisfied with the sharpness of the printed images.

I'd appreciate any feedback from those of you who've "been there done that" with this.

Thanks!

here it is (don't laugh:)

1. load the raw file [question here of what dpi I should use reading the file. Default from my D70 in ACR is 72. Default for the D300 is 240. I need to end up with 360 for printing on the Epson 3800.]

2. Some combination of edits, usually Levels, Curves, etc in PS CS3. My goal (which I rarely achieve so far) is to (as they say) "make the image really pop". So I increase saturation (but only by a tiny bit from the D300, more from the D70), and use Curves to increase contrast.

3. I typically want to end up with an "edited" file that I can then later use for various print sizes, say 11x14 and 8x10. So at this point I save the edited file in a "edited-not-sized" directory.

4. Then for each size print I want I do something like this:

5. Load the edited-not-sized file into PS CS3.

6. [this is a step I have just refined based on a tutorial on http://www.lynda.com. In Image Size dialog, turn resample off, then change PPI to 360, and OK.

7. Then in Image Size dialog again, turn re-sample on, and set the right dimension for the shortest side of the image (e.g. "8"). That results in something that's 8" wide, but longer than 10". For this step I use Bicubic Smoother (best for enlargement) because the image size I want is usually greater than what's displayed in the Image Size dialog box.

10. Then go to the crop tool, and set dimensions of 8x10, set Resolution to 360, and crop. My PS default Image Interpolation setting is set for Bicubic Sharper (best for reduction) since at this point I'm actually reducing.

11. Then use Unsharp Mask, usually around 100%, radius 3 [honestly I'm not really sure what's right here, but these are values I picked up somewhere in a tutorial]. I've also used radius 1, and %'s varying from about 50 to 120].

12. Then I save & print the file. In the print dialog I use 2880x1440dpi, no color adjustment, Photoshop manages colors, the profile for the paper I'm using, and Rendering Intent: Perceptual, and uncheck Black Point Compensation.
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bobrobert

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Recommendations for Digital Workflow
« Reply #1 on: November 27, 2007, 06:12:12 am »

There are a few things that could be improved but buy a book such as PS Artistry by Barry Haynes and you won't go far wrong Why 360 pixels fro printing? 300 should be enough You don't need to match the resolution to the printer driver Relative colormetric would be better than perceptual with black point turned on Radius 3 in sharpening is too much A lower value and an increased amount will be better The above mentioned book is one of if not the best on the market and is worth studying
Better IMHO than Martin Evening and anything by Kelby The problem about this kind of post is that you will get differing opinions and you are likely to end up confused again
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bheiser

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Recommendations for Digital Workflow
« Reply #2 on: November 27, 2007, 11:20:52 am »

Quote
There are a few things that could be improved but buy a book such as PS Artistry by Barry Haynes and you won't go far wrong Why 360 pixels fro printing? 300 should be enough You don't need to match the resolution to the printer driver Relative colormetric would be better than perceptual with black point turned on Radius 3 in sharpening is too much A lower value and an increased amount will be better The above mentioned book is one of if not the best on the market and is worth studying
Better IMHO than Martin Evening and anything by Kelby The problem about this kind of post is that you will get differing opinions and you are likely to end up confused again
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=156368\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Thanks for the tips.  I'll check out the Barry Haynes book.  

I, too, am concerned with this type of post.... but figured it was worth a shot to see if I'm making any glaring errors .

As for the 360dpi for printing... I am using that because I've been advised by multiple sources to do so, including Eric Chan in his Epson 3800 FAQ.  Apparently if you don't feel the Epson 3800 360dpi files, the driver will do interpolation, which isn't desirable.

Thanks for your feedback.
-Bill
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