Egypt and Jerusalum

[Harris]

I have asked about this before  but as our trip nears, I wanted see if there was anything more we should be aware of.  We leave next month for Israel & Egypt.  Going to Israel for grandson's Bar Mitzvah - Have been there on five prior occasions so we decided to combine this trip with visit to Egypt. Will have Visas for trip to Cario from Israel.

Arrive at Ben Gurion Airport in Israel and fly from there to Cario where we will spend 2 days - just wife and self - will have guides - will visit pyramids, Luxor, etc.  Then a three day crise on Nile with return to Cario for a day and then to Jerusalum.

Plan to take a black Leica M8 and a few lenses. Will have Leica name and other indications taped over with black tape.  Want to be as inconspicious as possible in Egypt although I know that no matter what we do, we will be seen as tourists. - especially since travelling with wife who is fair skinned - we will dress appropriately.

Looking for suggestions as to lenses to take and other thoughts on travel in Egypt.

Thanks,

Harris

[David Sutton]

Hello Harris. I visited Cairo earlier this year and was deeply saddened by the experience. I stayed in an inner city hostel, used the hostel drivers and don't think I met anyone there not living a life of quiet desperation and despair. I carried my dslr everywhere on  a wriststrap out of sight by my side and had no problems. Had a 24-105 lens which covered all I wanted to shoot (mainly used the 24-65 end of it) and I think dust would be a real problem if changing lenses. I would recommend paying a guide to meet you off the plane to get you through passport control and not disagree with anyone until you clear the airport. If I ever went back there I would get the best hotel I could afford and the best cars and make sure they had seat belts before I got in. My nose bled continuously after a day due to the pollution. The camel rides to the pyramids are inexpessibly uncomfortable but the best way to see them as you get the best photos and avoid seeing what has been done in the name of tourism. And be prepared to pay and pay (not a lot I have to say, but the process was continuous). Sorry if I don't sound cheerful about about my stay. Have a good trip. David

[plugsnpixels]

Harris, you're a brave man! I was in Israel for a few weeks back in summer '85 as a college student for an archaeological dig (City Of David). Having never been overseas prior, I burned too much film in Europe beforehand, and had to make due with 1000 speed negative film in Jerusalem and the Sinai! I did also shoot some slides on appropriate film though.

At this point I'd be afraid to go back, much as I'd like to...

Stay safe, don't get blown up, and shoot lots of digital! And pay your baksheesh to everybody ;-).

[John Camp]

I've been to Israel a lot and Egypt a couple of times, and I like both places, though Egypt, of course, is a lot poorer. The best way is not to stay in an inner-city hostel - get a guide with a decent car and stay in one of the hotels along the Nile. The National Museum (walking distance from most of the Nile hotels) is amazing in a number of ways -- it is a complete jumble, but some of the great treasures of humanity are stuffed away in there. Take a good 35 summilux for your M8, for the museum -- it's murky in there, and you'll need the fast lens to shoot through glass cases.

I wouldn't bother with the camel ride to the pyramids. Just drive up there; in fact, get the driver to take you on a long loop, and don't just look at the big ones. Get out and look at the Sphinx -- the feeling of age comes off it like off nothing else on earth. Probably make you feel a little sad, too.

Don't worry about how you look -- the Egyptians themselves look like everything. I'd stay away from the photographer's-vest, jeans and Nike look, though. If you look like an Israeli professor, you'll be all right (khakis, black leather shoes, button-up shirt, leather jacket.) And the wife should dress conservatively, and in dresses, rather than slacks. She might want to take along a couple of scarves. I wouldn't mention being Jewish, but you might want to take a quick look at the old synagogue...

About your camera. I'd go with few lenses -- a WATE, a 35, a 90 or 135, with a very small camera bag. The problem is, you'll have to take it almost everywhere with you. You can't leave it alone even in the best hotels, because the kit is worth many years' pay for most of the people who work there (it'd be worth stealing even at the cost of their job.) Frankly, if I were you, I'd get a Canon G9 and leave the Leica at home. Less weight and if it gets stolen, you're out about 1/4 of the cost of a single Leica lens. Egypt can be really dusty, and sand storms do occur -- there was one the last time I went, which I think was in February, and it looked like a London fog. In that sort of situation, a Leica would not exactly thrive. It's disappointing to leave your main camera at home, but if you're not specifically on a photo expedition, it's probably wiser.

JC

[Mark D Segal]

There are stunning places in Cairo few tourists get taken to, but the guides know them. The Mosque of Ibn Tulun is a must. It is one of the oldest and one can discern it as a precursor of Gothic architecture. A stroll through the old Christian quarter is very old Cairo with a difference. In that area a look inside the synagogue is very much worthwhile. No photographing allowed inside. Ask to be taken to the City of the Dead and visit the interiors of some of the major mausoleums. It is an eye-opener. If your guide is prepared to do it, ask to be driven through "Garbage City" to the Christian congregation center where there is a huge amphitheatre built into a cave, as well as a partially underground chapel across the way. Garbage City is a very large area in the Maquattam Hill where many people are employed recycling all of Egypt's recyclable garbage. This too is an eye-opener. Time permitting you should of course not miss the more touristy things such as a stroll through Kahn-Al-Kalili, especially in the evening, and a stroll along the Nile where there are good restaurants on boats anchored to the boardwalk. The Cairo Marriott is a good hotel with character and very good restaurants. I haven't been there for a number of years, but back then (1999/2000) we felt safe there wherever we went. And wherever you go hands will be out and you will be tipping continuously for everything - it's just part of the package, so carry lots of change.

[Harris]

Thanks for all the suggestions - will keep them all in mind when packing and traveling and will report back when we get home. Leaving next month on the 15th and returning on the 1st.  
Thanks again,
Harris