Mamiya 645AF WA-lens for interiors?

[jonstewart]

Silvestri is hardly cheap, we are talking something like at least 5000 euro for a complete kit w. lens.
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I didn't say 'cheap' I said 'cheaper'.

My point is simple: How much difference is there in price (in whatever currency) between the Mamiya 28mm, and a setup *like* the Silvestri / Schneider which should give as good quality (if not better; I haven't used either, so can't express a direct opinion on any such comparison), but a lot more flexibility as regards movements, when working in 'tight' interior quarters.

At a given price point, and for the likely duration in life, is there a big difference in cost / benefit? I think the answer to this is different for each of us, but the same answer may be true for a few.

[amsp]

I didn't say 'cheap' I said 'cheaper'.

My point is simple: How much difference is there in price (in whatever currency) between the Mamiya 28mm, and a setup *like* the Silvestri / Schneider which should give as good quality (if not better; I haven't used either, so can't express a direct opinion on any such comparison), but a lot more flexibility as regards movements, when working in 'tight' interior quarters.

At a given price point, and for the likely duration in life, is there a big difference in cost / benefit? I think the answer to this is different for each of us, but the same answer may be true for a few.
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Oh, for sure. If I was going to spend that kind of money on WA I would def. compare the two. But interiors is not exactly my main field of work and think either two would probably be overkill. I can always rent if a client wants to pay for it.

[jonstewart]

Oh, for sure. If I was going to spend that kind of money on WA I would def. compare the two. But interiors is not exactly my main field of work and think either two would probably be overkill. I can always rent if a client wants to pay for it.
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Agree, but renting a type of equipment that I'd never used before scares me rather a lot!    

[amsp]

Hehe.. so true.. that's why you rent it a couple of days before the shoot and play around with it

[marcwilson]

As others have said, especially here in europe, medium format was never really the gear of choice in film days for interiors, with of course the exception of the hasselblad swc cameras.
I think today it is not that different with the best two solutions being at one end a full frame dslr with wide (16mm etc) and wide shift lenses and for work where a higher image quality is required, or simply greater movements, then a view camera with either film or one of the digital backs on it using lenses as wide as the 24mm etc...as wide as you need, movements (some!) as well as less distortion.

With the price of the mamiya 28mm wide the shift camera set up are not that much more..for all the extra you get...strictly for particular use of interiors, etc of course.

Marc

[HarperPhotos]

As others have said, especially here in europe, medium format was never really the gear of choice in film days for interiors, with of course the exception of the hasselblad swc cameras.
I think today it is not that different with the best two solutions being at one end a full frame dslr with wide (16mm etc) and wide shift lenses and for work where a higher image quality is required, or simply greater movements, then a view camera with either film or one of the digital backs on it using lenses as wide as the 24mm etc...as wide as you need, movements (some!) as well as less distortion.

With the price of the mamiya 28mm wide the shift camera set up are not that much more..for all the extra you get...strictly for particular use of interiors, etc of course.

Marc
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[HarperPhotos]

This is the first time I have written on a forum so here goes.

Firstly before I got my Mamiya 28mm lens which I am not very happy with.

If I needed to go ultra wide I would use my MF Mamiya 24mm fisheye and correct it with a plug in from Proxel called Lens Corrector

 http://www.proxel.se/lens.html

This plug in is vastly superior than Image line which unfortunately is no longer available when it comes to correcting barrel distortion.

Also I pick up a MF Mamiya 645 75-150mm lens from www.keh.com for $310.00 US dollars and can't believe how sharp it is with my Leaf Aptus 75.
I have been using it to shot  cars in my studio (the best $310 bucks I've spent in years).

I have a question about the Mamiya 28mm. Does anyone know what the two extra terminals on the rear of the lens are for?

Finally I would like to say I am looking very much forward to all the new Mamiya lenses and camera body coming out in 2008.

Simon Harper
Harper Photographics  Limited

[Snook]

This is the first time I have written on a forum so here goes.

Firstly before I got my Mamiya 28mm lens which optical is fantastic.
If I needed to go ultra wide I would use my MF Mamiya 24mm fisheye and correct it with a plug in from Proxel called Lens Corrector

 http://www.proxel.se/lens.html

This plug in is vastly superior than Image line which unfortunately is no longer available when it comes to correcting barrel distortion.

Also I pick up a MF Mamiya 645 75-150mm lens from www.keh.com for $310.00 US dollars and can't believe how sharp it is with my Leaf Aptus 75.
I have been using it to shot  cars in my studio (the best $310 bucks I've spent in years).

I have a question about the Mamiya 28mm. Does anyone know what the two extra terminals on the rear of the lens are for?

Finally I would like to say I am looking very much forward to all the new Mamiya lenses and camera body coming out in 2008.

Simon Harper
Harper Photographics  Limited

Email  : simon@harperphoto.co.nz
Website:  http://www.harperphoto.com

Phone        : +64 9 444 1148
Fax            : +64 9 444  1148
Mobile       : +64 29 444 1148
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I too cannot wait to see what mamiya comes out with...:+]
Isn't that MF 75-150 a pain in the butt to use??
I have a ton of Manual Focusing lens but they are a pain to focus.
Especially with people..:+}
I have the 35mm and the 55-110.
but just in playing around I discovered the 55-110 does not focus really close at all. In fact I find it will probably be not very usable?
Does any body have any good suggestions.
Is the 80mm just junk?
Please let me know
Thanks
Snook

[HarperPhotos]

Gidday Snook,

I've only used the MF Mamiya 75-150mm on cars so all I've had to do is get the angle right focus and lock down the aperture manually and that's about the last time I needed to go near the camera.
Normal I wound use my Mamiya RZ IID camera or my Sinar P2 but cause the length of my studio is only 15 meters long I would some times find the RZ 110mm to short and the RZ140mm macro to long.
So for 300 odd bucks I thought what the hell. Optically I cant tell the difference with the 654 MF 75-150mm and the RZ lenses.
Yes you are right when it comes to really close up shots, not a problem with a RZ just love bellows focusing. To solve the problem with the 645 I bought a extension tube and use it with the AF 80mm that did the trick.
Again if any one can tell me what the extra 2 terminals on the new Mamiya 645AFD 28mm lens are for I would very much appreciate a email.I think it might be there for the new Mamiya/Phase camera body which is out in 2008?

Regards

Simon Harper
Harper Photographics  Limited

[Bill Caulfeild-Browne]

Gidday Snook,

I've only used the MF Mamiya 75-150mm on cars so all I've had to do is get the angle right focus and lock down the aperture manually and that's about the last time I needed to go near the camera.
Normal I wound use my Mamiya RZ IID camera or my Sinar P2 but cause the length of my studio is only 15 meters long I would some times find the RZ 110mm to short and the RZ140mm macro to long.
So for 300 odd bucks I thought what the hell. Optically I cant tell the difference with the 654 MF 75-150mm and the RZ lenses.
Yes you are right when it comes to really close up shots, not a problem with a RZ just love bellows focusing. To solve the problem with the 645 I bought a extension tube and use it with the AF 80mm that did the trick.
Again if any one can tell me what the extra 2 terminals on the new Mamiya 645AFD 28mm lens are for I would very much appreciate a email.I think it might be there for the new Mamiya/Phase camera body which is out in 2008?

Regards

Simon Harper
Harper Photographics  Limited

Email  : simon@harperphoto.co.nz
Website:  http://www.harperphoto.com

Phone        : +64 9 444 1148
Fax            : +64 9 444  1148
Mobile       : +64 29 444 1148
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The 28, the new AF 75-150 and the new 120 Macro D all have the extra two terminals. I was given to understand that this was to enable more EXIF data when used with the P45+ backs - but I don't see any more info than the older lenses give.

There must be a relationship with the "+" back, because my 28 mm, which worked fine with the P45, would not work with the "+" until the camera/lens firmware was upgraded by my dealer. The same applied when I got the 75-150, though I never knew if that would have worked with the older back as I got it after I moved to the "+".

On the other hand, the macro did not require any attention - it just works!

All of which is to say - I'm as mystified as you are!

Bill

[HarperPhotos]

The 28, the new AF 75-150 and the new 120 Macro D all have the extra two terminals. I was given to understand that this was to enable more EXIF data when used with the P45+ backs - but I don't see any more info than the older lenses give.

There must be a relationship with the "+" back, because my 28 mm, which worked fine with the P45, would not work with the "+" until the camera/lens firmware was upgraded by my dealer. The same applied when I got the 75-150, though I never knew if that would have worked with the older back as I got it after I moved to the "+".

On the other hand, the macro did not require any attention - it just works!

All of which is to say - I'm as mystified as you are!

Bill
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Hi Bill,

Thanks for your reply.
I'm using a Aptus 75 and it works fine.
Having a look at the interior images it is clear to me that your 28mm lens is definitely sharper in the corners than the 28mm I have.

Regards

Simon

[haefnerphoto]

I thought I'd send this image along.  It was shot with the 28mm @F16, I notice a sharpness falloff in the bottom corners, although not as pronounced as the previous example.  I shoot at F16 or 22 regularly and get great results, hopefully Mamyia will be able to resolve your problem.  By the way, I also own the 24mm and the difference in sharpness between the two lenses is huge, especially when you have to correct for the fisheye's barrel distortion.  I would say that 90% of the interiors I shoot are now shot with the 28mm.  [attachment=4536:attachment] Jim

[HarperPhotos]

I thought I'd send this image along.  It was shot with the 28mm @F16, I notice a sharpness falloff in the bottom corners, although not as pronounced as the previous example.  I shoot at F16 or 22 regularly and get great results, hopefully Mamyia will be able to resolve your problem.  By the way, I also own the 24mm and the difference in sharpness between the two lenses is huge, especially when you have to correct for the fisheye's barrel distortion.  I would say that 90% of the interiors I shoot are now shot with the 28mm.  [attachment=4536:attachment] Jim
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Hi Jim,

Thanks for your image.

Your lens is definitely sharper than mine. I to have a 24mm lens and have had great results with the Proxel plug in to correct the barrel distortion.

Also had a look at your website, fantastic work and a great studio.

Regards

Simon