Richard,
I'm not that familiar with Canon printers, but with my Epson 3800, I like the Advanced Black and White mode with that paper a lot. It is very sharp, smooth, good blacks, and excellent white separation as well. All in all it's very linear. I think if you spend a little more time with it, perhaps using QuadTone RIP, or one of the other really good RIPs for B&W, you'll find it to be very close to a really top notch silver print, and you might like it for Black and White even more than for color.
Aloha,
Aaron