Using DSLR on mountains in winter?

[Penjac]

I'm planing to go on mountains this winter little more then last years but mostly i'm planing to take my Canon 40D + lens with me so I'm interested to know what I must do to save them from low temperatures outside and from high humidity when entering into mountain houses. How to use, how to store them, some extra bags to keep them inside etc.

Thnx for answer

[Kagetsu]

I'm planing to go on mountains this winter little more then last years but mostly i'm planing to take my Canon 40D + lens with me so I'm interested to know what I must do to save them from low temperatures outside and from high humidity when entering into mountain houses. How to use, how to store them, some extra bags to keep them inside etc.

Thnx for answer
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I've personally found through my (little) experience with sub zero temperatures is to keep the lens temperature above the dew point. Dew point for those that do not know, is the temperature at which condensation forms on a surface. It's conditional to humidity, temperature. It's a sliding scale as well, and it constantly changes.

The easiest and most efficient way to get these readings of your immediate area is to use an temperature guage with all that built in. If you don't want to fork out for the unit, the other option is to get a unit called a whirling Hygrometre, which is a unit that looks like those clacky things, that you spin and they clack,clack,clack.
There are two thermometres in it, one with a sleve you need to dampen prior to whirling. The measurements you get from it (dry bulb and wet bulb) can then be used to measure humidity and dew point. Most Hygrometres come with a graph to get the levels from.

I have one in my kit, but I'm also a paint inspector as a side job, so I need to use them frequently.

---

The short story is this, keep you temperature warmer then the outside temperature, and you 'should' be okay, though these conditions change in snow. I use heat packs and line my back pack with them, and usually have one perminantly affixed to the camera lenses. around the front element.

[Jonathan Wienke]

When going inside after being out in the cold, having your gear in ziploc bags will reduce or eliminate the possibility of condensation forming and causing problems. They also keep dust and rain away from your stuff and are cheap.

[santa]

I shoot in the cold all winter, sometimes as cold as -50F (not windchill). The precautions I take are pretty much as follows.  You have to be careful to not breathe on the cold camera. If you frost up the lens you can't rub it off; you just have to wait it out. If you are climbing, mountaineering or otherwise kicking up snow, consider a second UV filter if weight allows if you think you may get snow on your first UV filter. Cleaning filters in the field is tough so being able to swap one out can be useful - but don't get it unless you really think you'll need it. Get extra batteries. Nuff said. You don't want to cool/warm/cool the camera. Once cold, let it stay cold. Warm up the battery separately if necessary with an inside pocket. Bring along some chemical hand warmers you can pop open if your shade and lens are getting frosted and attach the warmer to the underside of the camera. I use whatever I have...a bandana wrapped round it with the hand warmer in it...my remote control cord wrapped around it...whatever works.
   When it's time to come in from the cold, take the compact flash out, then put the camera in A) a large plastic bag or  your camera case or C) wrap it in your winer jacket. Any of these things work. If you use the camera bag or jacket, leave the camera alone for an hour or more depending on how cold it is. You don't want condensation forming inside the camera when the cold camera comes into a warm, moist room.
   Remember, your dead battery will come back to life after you warm it up. I keep a chem hand warmer in an inside area with my extra batteries to keep them warm and to warm up a cold battery. Use your LCD sparingly to save battery power it it's an issue.

[wolfnowl]

That sums it up pretty well.  At least you won't have to worry about your film becoming so brittle with cold that it literally shatters when you touch it!

Not exactly fond memories...

Mike.

[Penjac]

   When it's time to come in from the cold, take the compact flash out, then put the camera in A) a large plastic bag or  your camera case or C) wrap it in your winer jacket. Any of these things work. If you use the camera bag or jacket, leave the camera alone for an hour or more depending on how cold it is. You don't want condensation forming inside the camera when the cold camera comes into a warm, moist room.
   Remember, your dead battery will come back to life after you warm it up. I keep a chem hand warmer in an inside area with my extra batteries to keep them warm and to warm up a cold battery. Use your LCD sparingly to save battery power it it's an issue.
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Very nice explanation santa. Thnx very much

I have 1 other question What you think is best beltpack solution to carry lens and cameras and other equipment in it? I Have 40D, 10-22 or 17-40 + one of telefoto lenses atm I have 70-200 but when it comes I will take 100-400mm lens. I only can use beltpack since I have 85liter bag on by back with other hiking items in it like sleeping bag and so so I can't use standard backpack.

[dobson]

Very nice explanation santa. Thnx very much

I have 1 other question What you think is best beltpack solution to carry lens and cameras and other equipment in it? I Have 40D, 10-22 or 17-40 + one of telefoto lenses atm I have 70-200 but when it comes I will take 100-400mm lens. I only can use beltpack since I have 85liter bag on by back with other hiking items in it like sleeping bag and so so I can't use standard backpack.
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Why not just use your pack for your photo equipment? It will cut down on weight and bulk. Your 85L pack should be plenty for essential gear in addition to photo gear. I use those little neoprene soft cases and put the extra stuff in the top of my pack where it's easily accessible.

Depending on what model the pack is,  you can find ways to attach more small cases to the waist-belt for easy access. I do this when I have a rope barring entry to the main pack.

If you do get a belt pack, be careful that it doesn't interfere with the operation of your full pack. Try both on ahead of time.

Phillip

[fike]

I have had good results using a cheap dry-bag for my camera and lenses.  I store the gear in the bag and after using the camera out in the very cold conditions, I return the camera and lenses to the dry-bag before going inside.  The bags are more rugged than ziplocks and provide a bit more protection.  You can get cheap ones at REI or NRS.

I use one like this:
Dry Bag from REI

[Penjac]

I have had good results using a cheap dry-bag for my camera and lenses.  I store the gear in the bag and after using the camera out in the very cold conditions, I return the camera and lenses to the dry-bag before going inside.  The bags are more rugged than ziplocks and provide a bit more protection.  You can get cheap ones at REI or NRS.

I use one like this:
Dry Bag from REI
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I order that product and I will get it together with my 100-400mm in 2 weeks when friend of myne come back from USA.

I order Orion AW bag as my beltpack since it can be converted to bagpack with other part that come toghether..
[a href=\"http://lowepro.com/Products/Beltpacks/allWeather/Orion_AW.aspx]http://lowepro.com/Products/Beltpacks/allW...r/Orion_AW.aspx[/url]

I think I choose good beltpack and it's not expensive. I think Croatia have lowest lowepro bag prices in world. I don't know how since other items are more expensive then outside:)