Custom making adapters for digital backs

[jing q]

How difficult do you think it is to get a machinist to custom make an adapter to link a back to a camera?I'm thinking it would be great to use my Aptus back on a M645. Should be possible to get a piece made recreating the M645 back mount and the Leaf mount right?and then just through some trial and error getting the thickness right
What do you guys think?Any recommendations?

[rueyloon]

why not just get an AFD ?
they are cheap off the net.

[mahleu]

I came across a company that specialised in this a while ago, so it is possible. Have a look at http://www.skgrimes.com/index.htm

[jing q]

why not just get an AFD ?
they are cheap off the net.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=146402\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

3 words:
leaf shutter lenses.

[Morgan_Moore]

How difficult do you think it is to get a machinist to custom make an adapter to link a back to a camera?I'm thinking it would be great to use my Aptus back on a M645. Should be possible to get a piece made recreating the M645 back mount and the Leaf mount right?and then just through some trial and error getting the thickness right
What do you guys think?Any recommendations?
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=146399\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

What mount is your leaf ?

what do you mean M645 early mamiya 645 ?

I think you will have trouble getting a mount from one 645 fitting to another becuse the mount will be thick (even 3mm)

this will move the chip back and you will lose infinity focus

it is possible to get infinity focus with a 645DB a mount and a 67 camera

I think there are already converters for mamiya645adf and H1 to RZ 67

the RZ has leaf shutter I think

try googling kapturegroup and ecodigital



S

[Graham Mitchell]

You're assuming perhaps that the correct offset between the camera and back is positive. If not, you would have to machine the mount on the Leaf back. Not pretty.

[jing q]

What mount is your leaf ?

what do you mean M645 early mamiya 645 ?

I think you will have trouble getting a mount from one 645 fitting to another becuse the mount will be thick (even 3mm)

this will move the chip back and you will lose infinity focus

it is possible to get infinity focus with a 645DB a mount and a 67 camera

I think there are already converters for mamiya645adf and H1 to RZ 67

the RZ has leaf shutter I think

try googling kapturegroup and ecodigital
S
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yeah I have the RZ adapter actually...it's just a bloody piece of metal!!!so that got me thinking how difficult could it be to copy that and just recreate the mount...but foto-z you're right there's the issue of having the offset being positive. I'll need to do abit more research.

imagine!!!all the old cameras we could use by modifying the plates.I have a dream...came about after taking out the back cover of the M7 and imagining a loupe connecting to the eyepiece and a new metal piece attaching to the back. dream on yes?
in any case there's always the True Photographer's Way
[a href=\"http://www.holgadigital.com/blog_2/about.html]http://www.holgadigital.com/blog_2/about.html[/url]
Of course True Photographers would use gaffers tape...

[Morgan_Moore]

Of course True Photographers would use gaffers tape...
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=146426\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Slightly off topic.

I have also wanted to attach my 'digital film' to everything

Particularly my superwide nikkor lenses like the 14mm and my mamya 24 fisheye (I have H1)

One of the problems seems to be the need for a shutter

basically becuase the digital image is comprised of the image and a 'black reference' that cancels out noise the chip needs to be in the dark at the end of the exposure

hense shutterles cameras wont work as far as I can tell

I recon a block with a copal 3 shutter on it is the closest to one back fits anything

I did also wonder about packard shutters (google) because they are nice and thin

but didnt have the funds to contine experiments (I go a water housing for my H1 instead - a different line of experimentation)

here is my eyelike and nikor 24mm (which has a great image circle) - in the middle is one sinar standard and a phase/sinar/h1 adapter and some packing to bring the lens out and ontop is an old copal shutter to fire the back

So often I hold my nikon F3 in one hand and digiback in the other and wonder...

[jing q]

Slightly off topic.

I have also wanted to attach my 'digital film' to everything

Particularly my superwide nikkor lenses like the 14mm and my mamya 24 fisheye (I have H1)

One of the problems seems to be the need for a shutter

basically becuase the digital image is comprised of the image and a 'black reference' that cancels out noise the chip needs to be in the dark at the end of the exposure

hense shutterles cameras wont work as far as I can tell

I recon a block with a copal 3 shutter on it is the closest to one back fits anything

I did also wonder about packard shutters (google) because they are nice and thin

but didnt have the funds to contine experiments (I go a water housing for my H1 instead - a different line of experimentation)

here is my eyelike and nikor 24mm (which has a great image circle) - in the middle is one sinar standard and a phase/sinar/h1 adapter and some packing to bring the lens out and ontop is an old copal shutter to fire the back

So often I hold my nikon F3 in one hand and digiback in the other and wonder...
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=146436\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

what was your experience using that setup?you mentioned the need for darkness at the end. I've never tried so I don't know, was the image noisy or was there no image at all?

check the Silvestri bicam,
"It is possible to use NIKON wide angle lenses; 15mm, 18mm, 20mm, 24mm, by means of a special Nikon plate with bayonet mount and Copal Press shutter. The visual image can be obtained on frosted glass, or with a code 0900 external viewfinder with roof-style level, equipped with screen formats."

So I assume that all you need is to get is the right shutter to make it happen
Can we get a list of people who do modifications..I know SK Grimes is one, how about others?
I'm tempted to talk to the sculpture student who works in metals down at SVA...

[ixpressraf]

Why makng things so complicated. Just get yourself a Digiflex I or II or a Thrue wide and you can use all nikon lenses there are.

[Morgan_Moore]

what was your experience using that setup?you mentioned the need for darkness at the end. I've never tried so I don't know, was the image noisy or was there no image at all?

[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=146437\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Basically with no shutter there is no image becuase the black reference thinks there is an awful lot of noisy pixels - like all of them - which it darkens off

With clapping bits of black cardboard on about 1/2 way through a 1 second 'exposure' the creation of an image (of sorts) was possible - very very holga

check the Silvestri bicam,
"It is possible to use NIKON wide angle lenses; 15mm, 18mm, 20mm, 24mm, by means of a special Nikon plate with bayonet mount and Copal Press shutter. The visual image can be obtained on frosted glass, or with a code 0900 external viewfinder with roof-style level, equipped with screen formats."

[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=146437\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

I know about silvestri but thier information is poor and so is thier uk dealer (for giving info)

The press shutter is not as big as the copal 3 so restricts the image circle of the lense

Also they didnt make an H mount

The true wide by capture group uses a copal 3 but is V mount only

The cambo mini wide is available with a copal 3 (or was - discontinued?) and an H mount (I think) - so that could have done the job

These are all costly devices - comparable to a Canon 5d and 16-35 or 24TS - which would have been realistic for getting me out of those holes where the 35 is not wide enough

And anyway I have an nikon SLRn too !

And sometimes I make those cost trade offs - those cameras dont stack up for me

but a block of metal and a copal3 shtter - $1000 should be possible - I have nearly commissioned it too

S

[rueyloon]

Jing I can sell you my truewide  come over to my place if you're free.
Loads of pros and cons that will boggle your mind for weeks.

[jing q]

Basically with no shutter there is no image becuase the black reference thinks there is an awful lot of noisy pixels - like all of them - which it darkens off

With clapping bits of black cardboard on about 1/2 way through a 1 second 'exposure' the creation of an image (of sorts) was possible - very very holga
I know about silvestri but thier information is poor and so is thier uk dealer (for giving info)

The press shutter is not as big as the copal 3 so restricts the image circle of the lense

Also they didnt make an H mount

The true wide by capture group uses a copal 3 but is V mount only

The cambo mini wide is available with a copal 3 (or was - discontinued?) and an H mount (I think) - so that could have done the job

These are all costly devices - comparable to a Canon 5d and 16-35 or 24TS - which would have been realistic for getting me out of those holes where the 35 is not wide enough

And anyway I have an nikon SLRn too !

And sometimes I make those cost trade offs - those cameras dont stack up for me

but a block of metal and a copal3 shtter - $1000 should be possible - I have nearly commissioned it too

S
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=146444\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

I'm a believer of the DIY approach to life. especially after having recently had to pay way too much for pieces of metal for $700. not my cup of tea. Plus I've come across a few too many ingenious chinese minds that basically can make solutions to anything and copy anything should they put their minds to it.

to answer the previous poster's question...

speaking of holgas I was looking at my holga and my eyes lit up. A digital holga?bring it on!what happened to that digital holga that was being sold online?Looks like I have to make one myself

Morgan where do you live. We need to look into making this stuff ourselves instead of being told how difficult it'll be...I take great faith in foto-z's recent adapter making foray.

[Morgan_Moore]

I take great faith in foto-z's recent adapter making foray.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=146515\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

which is that

Morgan where do you live. We need to look into making this stuff ourselves instead of being told how difficult it'll be[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=146515\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

I live in the UK where engineering doesnt really happen any more - its all done in china !

What exactly are you trying to acheive?

What system do you use now?

In terms of costs copal shutters are available 'off the shelf' (uk £300)

Interfacing with the DB I would recomend a view camera adapter (£200)

The lens bayonet you would use a donor extension ring or camera body (or a cycle inner tube for T/S)

Actually the cambo miniwide is/was quite good value

Another avenue is to purchase a CNC milling machine for model making (plastic only!) - I think they are suprisingly cheap (£1000) - when I studied engineering CNC millers were £100,000+ (metal)

----

If you are on mamiya (AFD) and are after a real synch speed solution you could either change to blad/rollie or investigate an ALPA - copal 1 shutters synch at 500 or 1000 (cant remember) or stick with the RZ you already have

the thing I like about sinar backs (what I have) is that one can get adapter plates for different systems

I am thinking of getting a PRO TL adapter for those cheap lenses - I already have 24 80 and 35 and the body

---

But using an adapter on a 645 body YOU WONT GET INFINITY FOCUS - there is no space for adapters between different 645 systems

so you need to go 'no mirror' or 35mm and live with the reduced image (11mp)

Sorry to ramble !

ps love your grass cutter warriors picture - the way they look like 21st century urban warriors is something I spotted a while ago - but you actually shot the picture while I was researching the engineering drawings of the copal 3 - which leads me to reccomend - just get a D3 and take more pictures

SMM

[Graham Mitchell]

which is that

I believe the poster was referring to this thread:
http://luminous-landscape.com/forum/index....showtopic=19884

[Morgan_Moore]

I believe the poster was referring to this thread:
http://luminous-landscape.com/forum/index....showtopic=19884
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=146546\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

no disrespect to your efforts

but this is just a flat plate

constructing somthing to attach a Mamia or blad fit DB back to is a different ball game

hence for all homemade I think the first step is a view camera mounter for the DB

This is a great advantage to sinar (and imacon) multimount backs

to interface all you need is a flat plate with four holes - three for the screws one for the sensor

and the tolerances of those holes is pretty low

I have been singing the praises of multimount since the RG days - and with the current system turmoil I still sleep easy


S

[Graham Mitchell]

I agree, that adapter was as simple as it gets. I do have access to CNC machines so the next DIY might be more ambitious.

[jing q]

I agree, that adapter was as simple as it gets. I do have access to CNC machines so the next DIY might be more ambitious.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=146550\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Actually I had brought my back to my dealer to loosen the mount because the grip was too tight, and he did it twice in 5 minutes in the backroom. is it me or does it seem really easy to just remove the mount? how about custom making a mount for the Leaf

oh sorry I forgot to mention...I'm using a Leaf 75s with a mamiya afd mount right now...