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Author Topic: Lost Photographer on Paria Plareau!  (Read 5003 times)

azmike

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Lost Photographer on Paria Plareau!
« on: August 29, 2007, 09:32:15 pm »

After a long day of photography in late October, my wife and I were watching the last rays of the setting sun cast long-long shadows from the White Pocket monolith some 3-4 miles to the east of our ridgeline in the South Coyote Buttes. Unbeknownst to us at the time, a photographer was wandering away from an organized group at White Pocket to take some additional photographs. His friends began to look for him, but were unable to locate him. Sheriff’s offices from Arizona and Utah, AZ Dept of Public Safety air rescue helicopter, BLM and NPS personnel joined forces to conduct an extensive search operation.  They found him a day and a half later.

The story according to a Sheriff's office official we met during the search:

"Mike, yes we finally caught up to him about 0230 in the morning, he left White pocket got turned around and headed south, it was dark and he could not see any land marks when he headed out, he said one rock looked like another, he followed the road all the way to Bush Head, saw the lights of Page and tried to figure out how he was going get across the Pariah canyon when we finally tracked him down. He stated that he kept panicking and kept moving not knowing what direction he was going. He did find some water and a can of peaches in one of the buildings he passed, he was a little dehydrated but in good shape. Twenty-two and a half miles he covered, we had about 30 searchers in the area, and thanks again for the use of your map."


Planning a photographic expedition to an exotic/remote/wilderness location we tend to concentrate on photo gear, carbon fiber this, extra memory that, location and lighting details.......but little or no attention to wilderness survival. In the Mountain West, the spectacularly photogenic locations are not typically at the edge of paved roads. They are often in the wilderness, and we go there too often unprepared.

The Paria Plateau is a quarter million acres of sand and sandstone with the famous Coyote Buttes (The Wave) at the northwest corner. The White Pocket is at the end of a long four-wheel drive across sand hills. It's in the middle of a wilderness. It's still in the middle of a wilderness even if you were guided there. As we have camped on the Plateau, it was common to never meet another person for a week.

OK, you say, that's really wilderness, but you just snagged a permit to The Wave in the North Coyote Buttes. It's popular, there should be at least 19 other people on the trail, we'll all meet and greet at The Wave. Plenty of companionship if I have a problem.  Well, they typically all leave by mid afternoon, and you've heard about the "Second Wave" a quarter of a mile south along the slick rock...that is just fabulous with the end-of-day light. And it is, and you get some great shots. Now it's 15 minutes from really dark and you have a two hour hike back across slick rock with no flashlight, no GPS, no anything. It's 200 feet over the edge to the bottom of Sand Cove if you misstep. That's how it happens.

Our own ethic is to always carry in our pocket: a detailed topo map, a compass, a GPS (landmarked!); and always on our belt, a "survival bag" containing the essential things to: 1) help us find our way out of the situation; 2) help them find us; and 3) keep us hydrated and temperature regulated until they find us.  Think of the survival bag as a big lens bag with ingredients you customize to your expedition, medical and personal needs, the terrain, etc.  The wilderness survival bible for the bag is: 98.6 Degrees: The Art of Keeping Your Ass Alive, by Cody Lundin.


The principal motivation for this post is to suggest that our preparedness is linked to our future access to these locations. As the understaffed and underfunded governmental agencies respond to "lost photographers" their logical reaction is to close those locations to independent access. They may restrict access only to licensed guides (privatizing the responsibility). Unlike ranchers, hunters and mining/oil, we photographers have no lobby voice to speak for our access. It's our thoughtful preparedness that will ensure our continued welcome exploration and enjoyment of these unique landscapes.

Mike Coffey
Prescott, Arizona
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Win

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« Reply #1 on: August 30, 2007, 09:28:32 am »

This is a very good post and certainly should be read by anyone venturing into the "wilderness". Last Summer I had dinner with a fellow that was going to hike the Wave the next morning. Having been out there I warned him about getting lost and staying hydrated. Well, on the way out he got lost and wandered around for a bit before getting back on track. He ran out of fluids and could have been in big trouble.

He complained that the BLM does not sign the route and that rangers knock down cairns. In fact he went to the BLM in Kanab to complain. They basically told him" Hey, you've got  story to tell your friends. And we're not marking these routes!"

Win
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xato

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« Reply #2 on: October 03, 2007, 02:13:56 am »

white Pockets monolith is pretty big and you could probably see it in the new moon.  

Warren

<<The story according to a Sheriff's office official we met during the search:

"Mike, yes we finally caught up to him about 0230 in the morning, he left White pocket got turned around and headed south, it was dark and he could not see any land marks when he headed out, he said one rock looked like another, he followed the road all the way to Bush Head, saw the lights of Page and tried to figure out how he was going get across the Pariah canyon when we finally tracked him down. He stated that he kept panicking and kept moving not knowing what direction he was going. He did find some water and a can of peaches in one of the buildings he passed, he was a little dehydrated but in good shape. Twenty-two and a half miles he covered, we had about 30 searchers in the area, and thanks again for the use of your map."

Mike Coffey
Prescott, Arizona>>
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RockySharwell

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« Reply #3 on: October 03, 2007, 07:40:41 am »

One helpful tip that I learned years ago was to just sit down and breath deeply for a few minutes when outdoors and confused  as to my location. It really helps to quell the panic that can come on when you feel lost.
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Monito

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« Reply #4 on: October 03, 2007, 10:27:24 am »

One March, I hiked 5 miles out to a waterfall in Big Basin State Park, on my own. About mid afternoon I finished up and headed out, intending to follow a loop back. I missed the turnoff. They had promised a "strenuous" hike, but I ended up going along a forest road that wound and twisted up steep hills and down dales. I had a compass and a mental map, but no printed map. I did everything right as far as navigating by dead reckoning after I missed the turnoff, getting within half a mile of park headquarters on a trail off the road before being blocked more than half an hour after sunset deep in a dark redwood forest where a stream had broken across the trail.

Rule zero: don't panic.

I decided to go back to the road up the trail a half mile in almost total darkness (no flashlight, silly me). When the light failed utterly and it was pitch black I stumbled off the trail and wonder of wonders, I hit a bench! Benches are exceedingly rare in state parks, but there are a couple of groves where they have hacked a quarter out of a large redwood log and made a bench in dedication, probably after a large donation. I sat down and after reflection realized that my Canon 20D flash could light up my suroundings fleetingly. Thus I saw a reflector on the road I had come from, and thinking the road might have light from the sky, I stumbled over there. But it was a moonless night and there was no light and the gravel was sharp. Then I couldn't see the bench directly even with the flash!

After stumbling through a couple of failed attempts, I made a systematic search and was able to re-locate the bench through determined use of a couple dozen flashes. I was wearing no jacket, only a T shirt, but I had a plastic groundsheet. I was woken up each hour by cold condensation inside the groundsheet, so I had to turn it over and try to get back to sleep, but at least I had a bench to sleep on, thanks to my trusty Canon!

When I put it all together the next day I calculated that I had walked 18 miles with a full kit, including a tripod, in a LowePro CompuTrekker AW, which I highly recommend.

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wolfnowl

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« Reply #5 on: October 03, 2007, 04:05:53 pm »

I used to teach 'survival' or living with the earth as I prefer to call it, and have been a student of Tom Brown's Tracking, Nature Awareness and Wilderness Survival School.  When Marcia and I were in Ontario we were members of the 'Dirt Time Trackers' group and got together with some regularity to practice our skills.

In Tom's words (more or less), there are four basics aspects to every survival situation - water, food, fire and shelter.  And the most important, in EVERY situation, without exception, is.... none of the above.  The most important is ATTITUDE.  You're only lost if you've got a place to go and a time to be there.  Otherwise you're simply wherever you happen to be.  People who develop a 'lost' mindset will eventually deteriorate to the point where they will run from the people looking for them.  In some adults this can happen in 24-48 hours.  People have been found dead of dehydration with full canteens because they didn't want to drink their water until they really needed it, or frozen to death because it never occurred to them to make a shelter out leaves, branches, snow or whatever was available.  One example out of thousands of people Tom has found that I've always remembered was a hunter who got lost following 3 month old elk tracks (he obviously wasn't aware of their age).  What Tom couldn't figure out was how this guy could follow 3 month old tracks and couldn't follow his own footprints out.  One of the simplest things to remember when walking in the woods is to periodically turn and look back because the trail will look entirely different going the other way.

What you should take with you on your journey depends on a lot of factors, not the least of which is where/when you're going, how long you expect to be gone and your own skillset.  I've asked groups of people this question, "If you had to leave your house, RIGHT NOW and could only take ONE thing with you, what would it be?"  There have been a myriad of answers, but in my mind there's only one 'correct' answer.  Take your sense of self.  Anything you have can be broken, lost, taken or used up, but you can never lose your sense of who you truly ARE.

As for me, I've been wandering around the woods for some 30+ years, sometimes for work and sometimes for myself.  I've had a few occasions where I had no idea of where I was and very little idea of where I was going, but I've never been lost.  One time when I was working outside of North Bay we came across a big hematite deposit that all of a sudden turned the compass needle 90 degrees.  Called it quits for the day, put the compass back in my pocket and brought my crew out 10 feet from the truck. Of course there was the time I reached in my pocket for my compass and pulled out a deck of cards instead... I walked out but I figured I could always play solitaire! (and as the joke goes, pretty soon someone would come by to say, 'You should put that red 10 on that black Jack').

Mike.
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BernardLanguillier

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« Reply #6 on: October 05, 2007, 02:44:40 am »

Interesting story. I totally second what you write.

I have actually an article ready for LL on a closely related topic.

My personnal rule of thumb is that, should photographic gear represent more than 40% of the weight carried along during a trek, some important survival gear has probably been forgotten. The pourcentage goes down further for winter treks.

Cheers,
Bernard

duranash

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« Reply #7 on: October 07, 2007, 11:59:41 pm »

You don't have to be in such remote places to get a bit turned around.  I once hiked to Delicate Arch in the late afternoon/evening.  As the sun was setting, I noticed I was the only photographer/tourist left there----so I waited for a few more minutes to get the last rays of light on the Arch.  Then I set out for the parking lot as the light was fading FAST (winter).  I made a wrong turn and had to backtrack.  All those nice rocky cairns and the "path" that shows on the slickrock in the daylight just simply disappear in the dark, even with my flashlight.  I finally made it back down after several minutes of wondering if I was headed right.  Was I lost?????  Not really - I could see the Park road (headlights) off in the distance.  But had I not found the trail, it might have been a very painful and long walk.  I've always thought a GPS would have REALLY been nice in that situation.

Good Shooting
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wolfnowl

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« Reply #8 on: October 08, 2007, 02:00:09 am »

Quote
I've always thought a GPS would have REALLY been nice in that situation.

Probably!  As with any technology, though, don't make it your primary source for navigation.  Compasses can be affected by local magnetic loads, and GPS units can run out of batteries.  I know people who can no longer do simple math without a calculator... pencil and paper won't do it for them.  

It's when we lose those things that we depend on that we can find ourselves truly in a 'survival' situation...

Mike.
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Digiteyesed

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« Reply #9 on: October 08, 2007, 10:40:47 am »

In days past I used to hike the back country. I would take along a roll of orange safety tape, a staple gun, and a small pair of needle nose pliers. Every quarter kilometre or so I would tear off a small piece of orange tape and staple it to a tree. On the way back from the hike I would use the pliers to remove the staples and tape and put them into a trash bag. This was always done with the approval of the nearest forest wardens. If I had gone missing or not reported in to the wardens by a pre-arranged time they would have had a good trail to follow (except on one occasion where some ass removed a bunch of my markers).
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