Hi Michael,
I live in Durango, so I spend a lot of my time shooting in the San Juans.
You're going to be a week shy of the usual color change of the Aspens at most elevations, but depending on the weather and if you're up high enough, you should be able to catch the upper altitude trees starting to turn.
Send me a PM and I'll send you some of my favorite scenic spots.
Some of the better well known spots that I still recommend are Yankee Boy basin, Old Lime Creek road, Ophir pass, LaPlata Canyon and Alta Lakes.
As far as camping/lodging goes, I would definately stop by Orvis Hotsprings in Ridgeway and buy their camping pass. They'll give you 24 hour access to the hotsprings, which IMHO are the best private springs in the state, as well as a campspot and use of the facilities (showers, toilets, kitchen, private hot tubs).
Old Lime Creek road has a nice campground as well that is rarely crowded and Trout Lake outside of Telluride has some nice camping on the backside of the lake with some spectacular views.
As for eats, Sweenys in Durango. In Ouray there's a nice place on the west side of main street that is downstairs through a courtyard (can never remember the name) and if you can afford it in Telluride, the restaraunt at the top of the free Gondola from town, if not, then the brewery or Baked in Telluride.
PM me for any more info you need