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Author Topic: Lacie 319 w/ Blue Eye  (Read 2827 times)

davidjohnwallace

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Lacie 319 w/ Blue Eye
« on: June 22, 2007, 04:25:29 am »

I'm using the Lacie 319 with their bundled Blue Eye calibrator. I'm setting it up at 6500K, 100cd/m2, gamma 2.2 and then generating a profile. The color space I use is sRBG.

Shadow detail is totally lost on the prints I've gotten from two different online vendors. I have tried soft proofing the photos in Photoshop using the printer profile I got from each vendor, and it does not look even close to the print I received.

My understanding is that the Blue Eye should be taking care of the brightness, contrast, and 'black level' options that are available through the monitor settings.

Does anyone have experience with this monitor and calibrator? I have hunted around for answers, but I just can't seem to find anything definitive. Specifically, do people with this monitor change the brightness, contrast, and black level settings? How do you optimize this? Trial and error seems like a terrible way to make this adjustment, considering this is supposed to be a nice monitor-hardware pairing.

Thanks for the feedback.

DW
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Dale_Cotton

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Lacie 319 w/ Blue Eye
« Reply #1 on: June 22, 2007, 08:24:39 am »

One question that comes to mind is whether the calibrator is hitting your 100cd/m2 target or not. I've only used an EyeOne with Match 3 software, which gives a summary after it finishes showing what it achieved as compared to what I requested, and they're not always the same.

Another question: how close is your ambient light level to the recommended standard? The Match 3 software has an optional step that allows one to turn the calibrator around to measure the room brightness.

As I understand it, your calibration software is going to target a brightness curve for your display based on the difference between your display's light emissions and the recommended standard for ambient lighting. I find the difference in image shadow areas between what I see in dim vs. bright room lighting to be especially dramatic.
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Lisa Nikodym

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Lacie 319 w/ Blue Eye
« Reply #2 on: June 22, 2007, 12:30:04 pm »

Quote
I find the difference in image shadow areas between what I see in dim vs. bright room lighting to be especially dramatic.

I heartily second this remark.  I always thought my printer printed too dark until I finally got some prints under a good light, and was surprised by the difference it made; under a good light, the prints were spot-on to the monitor in terms of shadow detail.  Make sure you're viewing under an appropriate reference light, not just any old lighting conditions around your house.  If you plan to view or display your prints primarily under mediocre lighting, then you'll need to lighten them up to compensate.

Lisa
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Dale_Cotton

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Lacie 319 w/ Blue Eye
« Reply #3 on: June 22, 2007, 01:17:07 pm »

That's an excellent point too, Lisa; but what I should have written was:

"I find the difference in image shadow areas as seen on the monitor between what I see in dim vs. bright ambient room lighting to be especially dramatic."

For example: if you open an image file in Photoshop, then look at it with your surrounding lighting very bright, then look at it again with your surrounding lighting turned completely off like the proverbial coal cellar, you'll notice a dramatic difference in the openness of the shadow areas in the on-screen image.

The brighter the ambient light, the more it washes out detail in the shadows.
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Improv

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Lacie 319 w/ Blue Eye
« Reply #4 on: June 30, 2007, 04:24:28 pm »

Hello all,

Thanks for the post.

I'm confused a little about the targets that I should be putting in for the eye one software. I have the lacie 319 monitor and my screen results are much brighter than my print results. My ambient light is 4460 for temp and 30 for LUX. When viewing a print under this lighting, the print looks totally different than my monitor. I understand that this is because the print is being viewed with the ambient lightsource.

With the current profile, I have this when I do a test report:

               Target             Current
Gamma    2.2                  2.2
Kelvin      5500                5224
cd/m2      160                 137

Are there more appropriate settings for me to use as my targets to use when I run the calibration? I'm having a hard time finding any guidelines for setting the target settings.

Thanks WAAAY in advance for any assistance on this.

Regards,
Improv
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