Canon A-1 operation discussion anyone?

[flowerbells]

Hi!  I have this gorgeous, like-new Canon A-1 SLR, the camera I've been dreaming about for 40+ years.

I've gotten some nice day shots from it, with it set on Automatic.  Would like to work with the F stops now, and try some night shots since summer is almosth here.

I read and am studying the excellent article on "Night and Low Light Photography" at Black's:

http://www.blackphoto.com/tutorials/lesson_night.asp

and it explains the meanings and functions of F stops, the shutter, etc.

I had a different camera years ago, and used these settings instinctively with excellent results.   Wish I'd never parted company with that camera.  It took the most beautiful, clear, pristinely detailled shots I've ever seen. And I don't even know what kind of camera it was.  I got talked out of it, in a divorce.  But, oh well, I've got my slr now.

I also talked with an experienced film camera guy at a shop today.  He told me how he does n ight shots.  Does anyone here have a similar "formula" they use?

He sets the F stop at F 11, and just leaves it there.

Then, he experiments with what he (and other experienced photographers) call/s "the timing": the shutter speed,  i.e. the length of time the aperture/opening to light remains open.  He brackets it this timing/speed, and suggested I do that, rather than just one shot,  depending on how light or dark it is at the time I'm shooting.  For instance, if I'm shooting in downtown Portland, where there's a lot of light at night, he says, start at 15 seconds, and bracket up (double the speed to 30, then 1 minute, 2 minutes, 4 minutes...) taking the same shot at each of the different speeds.

He says take 2-3-4 shots and take careful notes of how I have everything set, the date, time of day, where the shot is taken, etc, so I can compare the shots and learn from them.

Incidentally, I told him I always take 2-3 identical shots, in case something goes wrong with one of them.  I got a battery operated motor for the A-1 so I can push the button and it keeps shooting fast fast fast.

He sounds like the photographer I am -- and a person who has the same learning style or mode I have.   An intuitive learner, not someone who "goes by the numbers."

Only thing is, the Black's article talks about adjusting the camera's ISO setting.  For sensitivity to light.  The article's author does not say what the letters in the acronym mean.  No "acronym-to-English" translation!  The author also fails to explain the mechanics or physics of what happens inside a camera, to cause it to vary its sensitivy to light, as the ISO (whatever that actually IS) is changed in -- position?  size?  what?

And the camera store guy who told me his way of night photography, mentioned nothing about ISO setting/s.

So, I'd be interested, as I said, to hear from others who  like night or evening photography (such as landscapes with the moon, dusk cityscapes or tree scapes, boatscapes, etc.) with a film camera -- particularly with a Canon A-1.

flo

[michael]

Flo,

Your questions are extreemly basic and will be best answered by your buying a beginner's book on photography. It will take a book to set you on the right track. A visit to a local book store or library will do the trick.

Michael

[wolfnowl]

That's a good idea.  There are a number of good basic photography books out there, and since you're shooting with a 20+ year old camera, the books won't be out of date!

One thing to add... if you're interested in night photography, or long exposures with film, look up 'reciprocity failure' while you're at it.

Mike.

[Bobtrips]

Just a bit of getting you up to speed...

Only thing is, the Black's article talks about adjusting the camera's ISO setting.  For sensitivity to light.


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Black is talking about a digital camera.  The way you adjust ISO with your camera is to buy a different speed film.  Or use neutral density filters.

[flowerbells]

Thanks so much for clearing that up about the ISO setting!

I just bought three rolls (24 shots ea) of Kodak Gold 100 film.  Had a hard time locating this film, but finally did.

So I'm going to do my first moon shots this week -- providing the clear skies hold out!

I plan to take good notes.

flo

PS I got some really nice pics of neighborhood flowering trees this evening, with my small automatic camera.  It's a Minolta 130c Zoom camera, and I've been really pleased with the pictures it does.  They sell well, and people love them.  I like it because it's so lightweight I take it everywhere.  I use Kodak 200 Gold for everything -- indoor, outdoor, shade, and sun.  It's very versatile film. It does not work for night shots, or for inside some theatre, such as photographing the actors after the show, with their permission.  I go to a lot of live community theatre, and know some of the actors and directors and playwrights, because my late husband was an actor.  That's a whole 'nother area of challenge for me -- to get decent pics in this type of in-theatre venue.  I've seen lots of people try, and poor results are the rule.  The aura of the finished shots is orangish.

Anyway, so far I've only tried 2-3 other films and was extremely disappointed.  That's with this camera, and another similar.  With the Canon A-1, I expect I'll be using some more variety in film speeds.

[flowerbells]

Thank you for the suggestions about reading a basic book on photography.

I guess I'll be working with the formula I got from a photographer on night shooting for a little while.  And taking notes.  I'll have that roll of Kodak Gold 100 finished, and the one in my Minolta, too, (Kodak Gold 200) then I will take your good advice.

flo

[Ben Rubinstein]

You will need a tripod and cable release for your night shots, I would also turn off the power drive thingy, from what I remember from when I used to shoot iwth a A-1 and grip, that thing used to cause serious vibrations, noisy as hell too.

Your statement about shooting loads of frames rather worried me, you do realise that it will cost you an absolute forture doing that with film? Spend the money on pro development rather than worrying about it.

Important things to learn aside from exposure are what difference shutter speeds make to a photo and what shutter speeds you can 'handhold', i.e. without a tripod, and what the difference between the apertures is. Once you know that you can decide whether to use the aperture or shutter priority mode of the camera and start to understand that photography is all about compromises, you choose the best compromise for the photo you have in mind.

[BobShram]

One of the best books I have got is EF Lens Work III by Canon. Seeing you are using an A-1 you should look for FD Lens Works by Canon. You should be able to pick one up for $20 or so on Ebay or simpler.

Regards Bob