Help using a Gossen Starlite

[jools230575]

Hi there

I am new to the forum.

A couple of years ago I bought a Gossen Starlite to help improve my photography. I had all good intentions of using it, but never got around to doing so.

Now. The time has come and interest is back all mad and keen that I decided to give it a look over and see if I could work out how to use it. The problem, I can't!

I looked at the manual (Starlite Manual) but it only confused me:( I know that I am probably being thick but I can not for the life of me understand some of what it gives me.)

What I want to be able to do is just this.

Set the ISO - OK, this I figured out  
Set the F number that I am using on my camera
Get the required shutter speed that I should be using

I want to get beyond the metering system of my Canon EOS to be able to do those wonderful sunset pictures with ND Grad filters. I know that the best way forward to do this is to use a meter.

Does anyone have the patience to help a guy out? I have honestly read the manual but to be truthful I find the layout, especially showing the display screen, a bit unfriendly.

Also. Does anyone have any tips for good books on how to use a meter when shooting landscapes and buildings in cities? This is what I shoot the most and I would to be able to do the best that I can  

Thanks people for any and all help

Julian

[situgrrl]

Whilst I own a Sekonic meter, these days I only use it on rare occasions when shooting my Canonet because histograms and the unlimited shooting capacity of digital makes it redundant.  Are you shooting digital or chromes?

[jools230575]

I'm shooting with a Canon EOS350D.

I know that I could be looking at the histogram, but I would like to know how to do things properly. When I have a little money I would like to buy a film camera and try my hand with that.

[situgrrl]

Well, the 350D doesn't have a spot meter so that gives you some use for your meter though I've found with mordern intelligence metering, my need for one is much reduced.  My need for a spotmeter is limited as intelligent metering is now so good, however, when shooting live bands and any performance with constantly changing lights, I'd still not be without one.

Most of the people on this forum are in agreement that ND grads are, with a few notable exceptions  (eg, rough seas) when blending is not possible, fiddly and ultimately inferior to computer based methods.  There are plenty of posts on these forums about HDR vs ND filters.  Just please don't go overboard with HDR - some of the images are revolting!

I'm sorry I can't tell you what you want to hear!

[jools230575]

Thanks for the replies that you have given so far:)

I have seen the blended images, and it is for this reason that I would prefer to use and learn how to photograph the traditional way.

Leaving our minds to technology is a bad thing!

[howiesmith]

The Starlight is also an incident meter and a flash meter.  Both of those functions are useful.  I would learn to us the meter even if all I got out of the exercise is I don't want/need to use it.

[KAP]

Does it have spot reading capability? If so you will be able to judge better which elements will fall out side the range of the sensor. I don't know the dynamic range of your camera. With film if shooting into the sun I would use it to see which shadow areas would retain some detail and at which point around the sun the sky would burn out. You might have 9 stops of DR with your camera, so anything within 4ish stops either side of your exposure would retain detail, decreasing amounts the further away from the middle. You might decide not having a burnt out sky is best for your subject, so you adjust the exposure to retain a tone in the sky. Or you might decide you want more detail in the shadows and adjust the other way. Chances are you would like both, then its either multi frames or ND grad filters. The meter with lots of experiance will help you judge this.
Get shooting!

Kevin.