Mamiya Flash Sync Tips

[stevecoleccs]

If I want to shoot at F2.8 outdoors on a cloudy day & use fill flash using the Mamiya
AFll & P30+ Back - my meter says I need to shoot at 1/500, I'm already using iso100
which I think that  is as low as the iso will go on a P30+, so how do I fill using flash?
And as we all know the sync speed on the mamiya AFll is 1/125.

- is there a battery power 150watt portable hotlight/daylight light

- should I use ND filters over the lens?  Looks like a 2 stop filter, darker viewfinder so
rely on the auto focus

- or using Lightroom there is Fill light adjustment, use it & don't worry about it because
there is enough dynamic range?

- or go ahead & spend the bucks on an H2 or H3

Thanks for anyone's reply.

[mcfoto]

Hi
Just use a portable flash unit like Norman 200 or 400 B, Profoto 1200B. I have used the AFD @ iso 100 film with the Norman 200B dropping the ambient light by one stop. I have used the Profoto 1200B with a Canon @ iso 100 & 1/250 flash syn. For 125X you need more flash power. A direct light head will give more power than a softbox. there is also Alien bee which now have a battery pack, these are great lights for a tighter buget.
Denis

[Morgan_Moore]

If I want to shoot at F2.8 outdoors on a cloudy day & use fill flash using the Mamiya[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=109372\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

I always say 125 synch (having owned and hated bot kodak SLRn and Mam AFD) is flawed and also big up the 25 ISO on my Eyelike22 and love the synch on my H1

WHile high ISO is indeed great no-one slags the back makers as there new backs come out with lower ISOs lost - surely software could desensitize backs easily

but you probably aint going to re-kit so..

-Do you know about the RZ adapter plate so you can use a mamiya RZ which has decent flash synch

-what about a reflector

-16bit files you can lift the darks better - dont be scared of doing this - remember the difference in quality between actual reproduction and pixel peepiing

-hot lights - I dont know but there is ARRI and other HMI solutions

- you could in reasonably static situations BLF (bracket like f) and nick a sky off a dark image and blend it into your light one

At 2.8 it can be hard to get flashes that are suitably un powerful say elinchrom rangers dont go low enough IMO

SMM

[Ben Rubinstein]

I used to use ND filters in the 'olden' days, what is the AF speced to? One solution may be to use Lee type drop in square filters so that you can AF, push the ND down over the lens then shoot.