proofing cmyk on an inkjet printer?

[lightstand]

After reading & searching through the archives and Michael's article on making a book I am still a little confused about using my 2200 to create a proof that will match the offset press (cmyk) and am hoping someone can provide some insights.

I don't have a RIP and am only using PS CS 1 for any conversions. My goal is to get close not exact as I also will be getting an evaluation print from the press. I have the Press's cmyk profile that I can use to soft proof on the monitor, but how can I print through the 2200 ink-jet to see that profile?

I realize I'm not working with the optimal software (RIP) to create this proof, but shouldn't I be able to get close? Any insights or help would be very appreciated. thanks jeff

[GerardK]

Jeff Schewe has written a really nice pdf which was published as a white paper on Adobe's website. It may serve to point your nose in the right direction:

http://www.adobe.com/digitalimag/pdfs/phscs2ip_reproprep.pdf



Gerard Kingma
www.kingma.nu

[neil snape]

When using a rip the control over the black channels better replicates a preproof. Otherwise a custom profile for your printer will provide a pretty close soft proof and hardproof when done right. It's not perfect but close enough to rest assured that it is press quality. If anything I find doing prepress proofing on rgb drivers , they are on the side of flattery. If you have a control proof, you can make a saturation layer, and possibly curves to better simulate what your eyes see that you place on top of the file ( from an action if you do this often).

[nemophoto]

Lightstand,

You can get very close (though not as precise as with a RIP) printing from with Photoshop, or even InDesign. First and most obvious, make sure your monitor is calibrated. Second, use Photoshop (or InDesign) to control color management. Make sure your correct 2200 print driver is selected from within the print driver menu - i.e. - Epson semi-gloss (250). MAKE SURE ALL COLOR MANAGEMENT IS TURNED OFF IN THE DRIVER.

Under the Photoshop print menu, select Color Management and select "proof" rather than document, IF you have not already converted to CMYK. (I have my system setup for US Sheetfed, rather than Web -- better, and to me, more accurate results.) Under "Color Handling" select "Let Photoshop determine colors", and under Pinter Profile" select your Epson print driver. (A specifically profiled paper is better, but this will work.) Finally, use "Simulate Paper Color". If your image was already CMYK, then you can use "Document" color, but use "Relative Colormetric" and "Black Point Compensation" under "Rendering Intent".

This will get you very close in your proofing. I occasionally do a comparison between my Colorburst RIP and doing it this way for curiosity sake. (I'm working with a 4000.) The results are close -- not matched -- but if you don't have the RIP and don't want to invest in one, this will get you 90-95% of the way there.