Topic: nikon scanner ?? (Read 6119 times)

rockne · « **on:** March 06, 2007, 04:17:07 pm »

have a nikon coolscan v ed scanner. able to scan film ok. cannot figure out how to save crop settings - resolution, output size, file size. have to reset those values with each scan.
thanks

b2martin · « **Reply #1 on:** March 06, 2007, 07:41:57 pm »

If you are using Nikon Scan, look on page 17 of the Nikon Scan reference manual. Once you set them up, you can save them and load them as the default at any time. When you do this, all images scanned will use these settings. You can save as many setups as you want and load as required.

rockne · « **Reply #2 on:** March 06, 2007, 09:30:17 pm »

Quote

If you are using Nikon Scan, look on page 17 of the Nikon Scan reference manual. Once you set them up, you can save them and load them as the default at any time. When you do this, all images scanned will use these settings. You can save as many setups as you want and load as required.
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thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i spoke with a nikon tech about something else and asked him if there was a reference in addition to the software that came with the scanner. he said no.
i've been going crazy with this.
do you have one? if so, how do you like it?

b2martin · « **Reply #3 on:** March 07, 2007, 09:01:04 am »

If you did not find the Nikon Scan Reference Manual let me know and I will help you find it.

I have a Nikon 9000ED scanner and have used it for about 18 months. I think it is a great scanner. I am scanning my 40+ year collection of medium format and 35mm color negatives - have not started on my color slides yet. This is a long term project, but I am retired and have time to scan. I now use a Nikon D200, so will not be increasing my scanning backlog, but my wife shoots 35mm film and I scan all of these. Photography has been my hobby for over 50 years.

made · « **Reply #4 on:** June 12, 2007, 04:51:52 am »

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If you did not find the Nikon Scan Reference Manual let me know and I will help you find it.

I have a Nikon 9000ED scanner and have used it for about 18 months. I think it is a great scanner. I am scanning my 40+ year collection of medium format and 35mm color negatives - have not started on my color slides yet. This is a long term project, but I am retired and have time to scan. I now use a Nikon D200, so will not be increasing my scanning backlog, but my wife shoots 35mm film and I scan all of these. Photography has been my hobby for over 50 years.
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Hi,

what is your workflow for scanning negatives ? I am thinking to buy the 9000 for 6x9 negatives.

Thanks

thomas

rockne · « **Reply #5 on:** June 12, 2007, 05:05:37 am »

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Hi,

what is your workflow for scanning negatives ? I am thinking to buy the 9000 for 6x9 negatives.

Thanks

thomas
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rockne · « **Reply #6 on:** June 12, 2007, 05:07:19 am »

don't understand what you mean by workflow

Scott Martin · « **Reply #7 on:** June 12, 2007, 10:47:38 am »

I have a 4 page Nikon Scanning Workflow PDF that you can download from:
http://www.on-sight.com/download/Nikon_sc...orkflow_v10.pdf
It covers negative scanning tips, glass negative carriers and some of the lesser understood but equally important features like "Super Fine Scan". Enjoy.

made · « **Reply #8 on:** June 12, 2007, 02:34:57 pm »

Quote

I have a 4 page Nikon Scanning Workflow PDF that you can download from:
http://www.on-sight.com/downloads/Nikon_sc...orkflow_v10.pdf
It covers negative scanning tips, glass negative carriers and some of the lesser understood but equally important features like "Super Fine Scan". Enjoy.
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Many thanks - I have a short look on it - great!

Are the results much more better with silverfast and "Negafix" ?

How to get scanns from negativs without a lot of grain ?

Many thanks

Thomas

David Good · « **Reply #9 on:** June 12, 2007, 03:51:59 pm »

This workflow works for me very well on my LS9000. I prefer Vuescan over Silverfast or NikonScan, the latter is not fully color managed and appears to use profiles that only it can access. For negatives I scan as positives and invert in Photoshop, as descbribed by Ian Lyons here: http://www.computer-darkroom.com/tutorials/tutorial_6_1.htm then assign a working space like ProPhoto.

For slides, I import into Photoshop with scanner color management turned off, choose "leave as is" (don't color manage), a little noise reduction, capture sharpen, assign a (custom) profile, then convert to a working space (Ekta). This works for most positives, however older Kodachrome can present an extreme color cast problem that may be corrected with an altered custom profile that compensates for this.

Andrew Rodney has a chapter on scanner profiling in his book "Color Management for Photographers" including a section on finding your scanners optimal settings.

MichaelEzra · « **Reply #10 on:** June 13, 2007, 09:39:23 am »

I had success in wet scanning 6x7 negative film using Nikon's anti-newton-ring glass holder and a simple film emulsion cleaner!

The emulsion cleaner is very inexpensive and so far I am not aware of any drawbacks to using it for scanning. I am curious if anybody else tried a similar solution and compared the results with Image Mechanics film holder and Kami fluid.

Thanks,

Scott Martin · « **Reply #11 on:** June 13, 2007, 12:04:47 pm »

Quote

I had success in wet scanning 6x7 negative film using Nikon's anti-newton-ring glass holder and a simple film emulsion cleaner! I am curious if anybody else tried a similar solution and compared the results with Image Mechanics film holder and Kami fluid.
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High resolutions scans made with anti-newton ring glass and sprays produce a slightly hazy grain in comparison to the cleaner, clearer results from oil mounting. Anti-newton products are great for low resolution scanning but should be avoided, IMO, for high resolution and more demanding scanning situations.

MichaelEzra · « **Reply #12 on:** June 13, 2007, 12:23:01 pm »

Scott, Thank you for the reply. Does this also apply to the case when anti-newton glass holder is used in wet scanning? My impression was that fluid would fill in the scratches on the upper glass and would make it almost equivalent to a plain glass.

Scott Martin · « **Reply #13 on:** June 13, 2007, 12:34:46 pm »

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Does this also apply to the case when anti-newton glass holder is used in wet scanning? My impression was that fluid would fill in the scratches on the upper glass and would make it almost equivalent to a plain glass.
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Hmmm, good question. I can't say that I've compared that option myself.

I was a professional drum scan operator for years in the 90s before switching to a Nikon 8000 then to the Imacon that I have today. When I used an 8000 I got really good with loading and stretching film flat in the regular glassless 2.25 carrier. When loaded properly the cleanliness of these scans is fantastic. There is something nice about not having to worry about the cleanliness of 4 different sides of glass. Definitely worth considering for those that don't want to spring for a glass carrier.

MichaelEzra, you might try doing your own comparison with the regular glassless carrier, anti-newton dry and anti-newton wet and see which you prefer, all things considered.

MichaelEzra · « **Reply #14 on:** June 13, 2007, 02:24:11 pm »

In my experience,

1. I could never make 6x7 negative lay entirely flat in Nikon 8000 glassless holder
2. anti-newton glass carrier almost always produced newton rings...
3. wet scanning with anti-newton glass carrier and with film cleaner used as a scanning fluid worked pretty good. The trick is to squeese all the air bubbles under the glass surface. Scratches do disappear and scans are very clean.

I am concerned whether

1. such extensive use of the film cleaner as a scaning fluid is safe for the film

2. does a "real" scanning fluid offer any advantages to a film cleaner fluid?

film cleaner is dramatically less expensive.

Thanks,

Scott Martin · « **Reply #15 on:** June 13, 2007, 02:54:01 pm »

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1. such extensive use of the film cleaner as a scaning fluid is safe for the film
2. does a "real" scanning fluid offer any advantages to a film cleaner fluid?
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With these concerns you really should invest in some Kami products. Kami makes the film cleaner, mounting fluid (not really oil), wipes and cleaning pads that the pros use. Kami products are entirely safe on even 100+ year old flammable films and plates. I can't speak for your brand but real mounting fluid is bound to have advantages (less prone to bubbles, slow evaporation rate, right viscosity, etc) for mounting.

Author Topic: nikon scanner ?? (Read 6119 times)