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Author Topic: Drymounting inkjet prints  (Read 9659 times)

blansky

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Drymounting inkjet prints
« on: December 18, 2006, 12:06:26 pm »

I did a search and couldn't find any answers so:

I've been drymounting traditional prints for 30 years. Can inkjet and/or chromira prints be drymounted in the same way and expect no adverse effects?


Michael
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dlashier

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Drymounting inkjet prints
« Reply #1 on: December 18, 2006, 01:58:55 pm »

Generally yes, but try and find a tissue that mounts in 160 to 180 range. I'm drymounting Kodak 1400 dyesubs with no problems. I don't bother with my inkjets because they're stiff enough to hinge mount, but my understanding is that they're ok too as long as you don't get too hot. It's easy enough to try one and find out.

- DL
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michael

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Drymounting inkjet prints
« Reply #2 on: December 18, 2006, 03:53:28 pm »

I'd add that except for speciality applications dry mounting has largely gone out of favour. I know of almost no one doing it with inkjet prints any more, though it's of course possible.

Michael
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KenS

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Drymounting inkjet prints
« Reply #3 on: December 18, 2006, 05:25:19 pm »

I regularly dry mount luster and glossy prints produced on an Epson 7800 to Bainbridge Artcare Restore foamboards.

The dry mount adhesive is on the board so one no longer needs to mess with tissue and tacking irons.  The temperature recommendation is low, only 150 deg F, and time is short.  I have had no problems at all.  I've mounted prints up to 24 x 32 inches in sections.  I place clean 4 ply mat board on top of release paper which is in contact with the inket print surface.   For sectional mounting be sure the 4 ply top mat board overhangs several inches to avoid creases.  My time in press is only 35 sec, you may be able to use even less time.   If you go this route be sure to ask Bainbridge for the free temperature calibration strips (available from their website).  Dry mounting press temperatures are often vastly different than the knob setting.

madmanchan

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Drymounting inkjet prints
« Reply #4 on: December 18, 2006, 05:43:18 pm »

Quote
I'd add that except for speciality applications dry mounting has largely gone out of favour. I know of almost no one doing it with inkjet prints any more, though it's of course possible.

Michael
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=91247\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Michael, how would you recommend mounting an inkjet luster or glossy print for situations where an image might warp (e.g., due to humidity)? I live in Boston where the humidity varies throughout the year, and my experience with luster papers, even small ones like 11x17, is that when they're hinge-mounted they'll tend to warp. At certain angles the effect is quite visible. Any suggestions aside from dry mounting?

Eric
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michael

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« Reply #5 on: December 18, 2006, 06:53:05 pm »

I wouldn't print on plastic.  

Michael
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madmanchan

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« Reply #6 on: December 18, 2006, 07:18:56 pm »

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I wouldn't print on plastic.   

Michael
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=91277\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Point taken.    What about thin polyester film such as Pictorico High Gloss White Film?

Eric
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Marty C

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Drymounting inkjet prints
« Reply #7 on: December 18, 2006, 08:58:11 pm »

I have run into a lot of problems using Epson RC paper with drymounting and it really does not work. My solution was 3M PMA adhesive #568. which comes in rolls It is applied to the back of the photo and then trimmed to the edge of the paper. Place the print on the board which can be repositioned if needed then put the silicone sheet that is supplied with the role over it. Using a roller with medium pressure roll the entire print. Your done. Complete documentation comes with it.

I bought it from art supplies on line
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larryg

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« Reply #8 on: December 19, 2006, 10:26:07 am »

we have been using Bienfang Buffer Mount tissue with our vacu-press.  about 160 degrees   worked ok.
Now we are using the foam core that already has the sticky side on it.  It is actually cheaper to use the new foam board than board and buffer mnt tissue together.
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russell a

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« Reply #9 on: December 19, 2006, 02:37:43 pm »

I have been using acid-free z-core high tack board from Pres-On for some time now.  Weblink  I recommend ordering by phone, their web site is not well constructed, but they make up for it by shipping in a virtually armored box.
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blansky

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« Reply #10 on: December 19, 2006, 08:09:31 pm »

Thanks for all the replies.


Michael
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AlanS

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Drymounting inkjet prints
« Reply #11 on: December 22, 2006, 12:16:30 am »

I drymount using Biemfang colormount; 200 degrees for 2 minutes. I primarly use epson velvet and have had no issues. Personally I prefer to leave a small margin (3/8" or so) between the edge of the print and the beginning of the matte. Not only do I feel it looks better-it's also more practical for signing the work, but I would rather trim off a fraction of image that bury a 1/16 or so of image under a matte.
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tbonanno

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Drymounting inkjet prints
« Reply #12 on: December 22, 2006, 12:49:13 pm »

Quote
I drymount using Biemfang colormount; 200 degrees for 2 minutes. I primarly use epson velvet and have had no issues. Personally I prefer to leave a small margin (3/8" or so) between the edge of the print and the beginning of the matte. Not only do I feel it looks better-it's also more practical for signing the work, but I would rather trim off a fraction of image that bury a 1/16 or so of image under a matte.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=91864\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]


I never plug in my old Seal 210 press any more, but I do occasionally "cold" mount an inkjet print using the press with 3M Cold Mount vacuum adhesive.  Never had one peel away or ripple.
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Tony Bonanno Photography
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