Signing with Sharpie

[stevieisballer]

I know there are a lot of threads on signing prints so I may have missed my answer, but I am curious if it would be okay to sign an aluminum print on the back with a sharpie?
Thanks!

[Alan Goldhammer]

It's not certain to me what chemicals are in the Sharpie ink.  The odor implies that there are some organic solvents.  Sharpies can also lay down a fair amount of ink if you have a heavy hand.  My recommendation is to stay away from them and use either pencil or a pigment-based pen which are known to be OK.

[BrianBeauban]

Over time the ink will "bloom", or spread, the sharp edges becoming diffuse and soft.

[framah]

Just to let you know.. I have had painted canvases come in with the artist signature on the back of the canvas and it has started to bleed thru to the front.

Better not just to be safe.

[dasuess]

Just to let you know.. I have had painted canvases come in with the artist signature on the back of the canvas and it has started to bleed thru to the front.

Better not just to be safe.

Sharpies will bleed... it’s ugly with tinges of green.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[stevieisballer]

Thank you everyone!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Wayne Fox]

He mentioned he is signing the back of an aluminum print.  A sharpie cannot bleed through the aluminum to the front.

Sharpies are dye ink based and may fade over a period of time, maybe bloom a little and even turn a little green, but I doubt if that's a concern on the back of an aluminum print which won't get much light and won't affect the front which is being viewed.

I believe the gold sharpies are more stable, and might be a possible choice.  I know some have used those to sign the front of aluminum or acrylic prints.

There are also several pigment paint pens available at hobby and craft stores, some of which would probably work OK on aluminum.  Sometimes they don't dry quick enough, and they might scratch off, but it's another alternative.  You would have to test any of those you try

[Alan Goldhammer]

Ooops, didn't read the OP carefully enough to see that he is signing a print on 'aluminum.'  Wayne is correct in that bleeding is non issue for this substrate and that the critical issue is both drying time and whether the signature can be easily smudged.  I think the OP is going to have to test several alternatives here.  It may be that a thin point Sharpie is the best solution.

[Ethan Hansen]

I've used both Sharpie and Pilot paint markers on metal prints with good results. No fading or discoloration after 15+ years.

[Richard.Wills]

I have a client who signs the back of aluminium mounted prints using a biro (ball point pen). Wipe off the ink, and you have an elegant engraved signature.

[CeeVee]

I have a client who signs the back of aluminium mounted prints using a biro (ball point pen). Wipe off the ink, and you have an elegant engraved signature.

Is the "engraving" a scratch or is the ink caustic?

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[GrahamBy]

Is the "engraving" a scratch or is the ink caustic?

Probably more precise to say "indented" than "engraved". Natural aluminium is quite soft...

[Richard.Wills]

Quite right, indented.

Must have another coffee.

[CeeVee]

Probably more precise to say "indented" than "engraved". Natural aluminium is quite soft...

Thanks.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[GrahamBy]

Quite right, indented.

Must have another coffee.

Engraved is more evocative however, if less precise

Now we could get into a choice of alloys suitable for mounting... definitely go for 1005 over 3003 if you plan to ghost-sign it on the back