Graham - Not sure about this theoretical jive and its real value in the world. Yes, as you know, I also have mini-Sumo and Taschen obviously spent a great deal of time and resources making it - especially the real one, the non-mini at ten grand or something like that.
But, though design obviously plays a huge part in how something looks, further theoretical claims on fluency etc. strike me as getting terribly close to hype, especially with books like Newton's or our latest shared baby, Lindbergh. One reads their claims on how the intention has been to develop a continuity, tell a story of parallel developments between both the clothes designers, their progress and PL's part in all of that amalgam of shared work. I accept that I may be too stupid to get it, but for the life of me, the only story that truly emerges is that our Peter shot a helluva lot of pictures of some celebrated models in his own, very idiosyncratic manner.
Frankly, looking at those images is the reason, the only reason, I put my money down. I have tried to follow the prescribed path to no avail: it's so inconsequential within the scope of the oeuvre as to be a nonsense. Exactly the same holds with Newton's book: as they say, it's the pictures, stupid!
Look at the book on Leiter that accompanied his final show (as our Lindbergh does his), and the essential power is in the images, presented with as little pretension as possible.
If there is a showcase for graphic design, I would suggest forgetting books, and researching top magazines and advertisements: not only do they, mags, have to cope with an ever greater amount of information (just look at how awful Vogue covers have become since dumbing down to show everything, including their knickers, in one space in hope of hooking the passing browser) but do so and remain attractive.
In the end, it seems to be true that the more simple something is, the better.
P.S.
I couldn't find the ISBN info in the PL book the other day: it exists! Right at the bottom of the very last white page! That took two lights on to see it as distinct from the "thanks also" list.